taymag
Member
Got my 4.5" barrel back and don't really want to buy the separate barrel nut and rail.. I think I saw someone on here just cut their barrel, would a miter saw do the trick without cracking it?
Could I cut my 15-22 rail with a miter saw?
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taymag
Member
For anyone wondering.. The polymer cut like butter. I got antsy waiting for responses hah 
rodensouth
Member
Excellent! Is that the end of a suppressor peeking out?
I've got one of the Tac Sol SBX barrels to avoid the stamp on one of the 10/22's, but that setup looks much handier, and cooler.
How difficult is a barrel swap on those?
I've got one of the Tac Sol SBX barrels to avoid the stamp on one of the 10/22's, but that setup looks much handier, and cooler.
How difficult is a barrel swap on those?
taymag
Member
I am just going to copy paste what I said on another forum so it may not look like it is directed toward you but its some "to know" info haha, but the barrel swap is "different" but no harder than another once you get the tool......
That's a Spectre II but I have a Sparrow that will be closer to flush to the rail. Along with stealing BigWaylon's rail cutting idea (sorry buddy, it looked good what can I say lol) I think he also told me about telling the company (I used Adco) to cut to SilencerCo thread specs.
You have to buy the damn special barrel nut remover which sucks since it took 2+ weeks to get here and I wish Adco had one to just do it (they didn't like when I told them it takes 2 seconds can you do it without charging $60) but oh well lol. So buy that now so when you're approved you can just send it out
If you dont want to cut the rail (since it poly the cut was clean and you cant even really tell, it looks clean) you can buy a nut that lets you use any AR rail but I didnt want to dump anymore money into it (http://www.amazon.com/Wesson-P15-22...oliid=I3JT290UZHOEI&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl)
I just did a practice cut like BigWaylon said then just did a rough estimate on where my Sparrow (5.08") would stick out, which means the Spectre II (5.98") sticks out about an inch more. My rail is cut about 7.75" and my barrel is 4.5".
That's a Spectre II but I have a Sparrow that will be closer to flush to the rail. Along with stealing BigWaylon's rail cutting idea (sorry buddy, it looked good what can I say lol) I think he also told me about telling the company (I used Adco) to cut to SilencerCo thread specs.
You have to buy the damn special barrel nut remover which sucks since it took 2+ weeks to get here and I wish Adco had one to just do it (they didn't like when I told them it takes 2 seconds can you do it without charging $60) but oh well lol. So buy that now so when you're approved you can just send it out
If you dont want to cut the rail (since it poly the cut was clean and you cant even really tell, it looks clean) you can buy a nut that lets you use any AR rail but I didnt want to dump anymore money into it (http://www.amazon.com/Wesson-P15-22...oliid=I3JT290UZHOEI&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl)
I just did a practice cut like BigWaylon said then just did a rough estimate on where my Sparrow (5.08") would stick out, which means the Spectre II (5.98") sticks out about an inch more. My rail is cut about 7.75" and my barrel is 4.5".
FREERANGETIME!
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How did you go about installing the qd sling point?
The rifle looks great, I am very curious to know how the qd sling point was installed, I sold my quad rail M&P22 so that I could buy the new version with the MLOK forearm and I have been looking for a better way to attach a sling than the method I had to use with the quad rail version, I am of the opinion that qd is the ideal method, its how I have my sling set up on my AR and it would be really nice if we're able to do it with the M&P22 also. Any instruction or advice you can give in that regard would be greatly appreciated.
Before anyone advises me to simply get a stock with a qd point, allow me to go ahead and say, that ain't happening, I already have the exact stock I wanted on the gun from day one, thanks again.
The rifle looks great, I am very curious to know how the qd sling point was installed, I sold my quad rail M&P22 so that I could buy the new version with the MLOK forearm and I have been looking for a better way to attach a sling than the method I had to use with the quad rail version, I am of the opinion that qd is the ideal method, its how I have my sling set up on my AR and it would be really nice if we're able to do it with the M&P22 also. Any instruction or advice you can give in that regard would be greatly appreciated.
Before anyone advises me to simply get a stock with a qd point, allow me to go ahead and say, that ain't happening, I already have the exact stock I wanted on the gun from day one, thanks again.
taymag
Member
Sorry to say this is how I bought it. I bought it, test fired it and haven't touched it in 8 months until I got my stamp
I just looked at it, its a through bolt so its built into the frame.. Here's an image I pulled off Google to show the other side
I just looked at it, its a through bolt so its built into the frame.. Here's an image I pulled off Google to show the other side
Acera
Member
Is this along the lines of what you are looking for???
http://combatsportsupply.com/utgrslingadapterbuffqd.aspx
or this.
http://www.echo1shop.com/products/echo1-qd-dual-sling-mount
maybe this.
http://www.tacticallink.com/Z-360-Sling-Mount-GEN-2.html
this might be what your looking for.
http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...ing-mount-black-sku100004383-27641-53471.aspx
FREERANGETIME!
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thank you
plenty of options, thanks again
plenty of options, thanks again
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