Disassembly/ Cleaning of a Marlin 336

[Snowblind]

Recently got a Marlin 336 as a gift from my grandfather. It's been used, but not abused, though it is quite old. (Probably around 40 years, twice my age) It's also been sitting unused in a closet for about five years.

Before I take it out to the range, I figured I would attempt to do some thorough cleaning. It was dusty as all hell, plus I could see a tiny bit of rust where the finish had been nicked off on the side of the barrel. After the basic cleaning, I decided to pop the rail/scope off and clean the receiver top, as I could see there was some crud accumulating underneath the rail. The entire top of it is gunked up with what looks like really, really old gun oil, that won't budge. Plus, there's a solid amount of dust between the barrel and the magazine tube that I can't get to.

So here comes the question, finally. How the hell do I clean this thing up? I scrubbed the crap out of the top of the receiver to no avail, plus I have no idea how to disassemble the mag tube to clean around it.

What do you all use for your serious cleaning jobs, and how do I take apart this thing to clean out the nooks and crannies? Should I even attempt that with this model? (It really looks like it wasn't made to be taken apart. Plus it's so old the wood as swelled and the barrel band won't budge.)

 

[Dr.Rob]

Use a spray cleaner for the gap in the barrel/mag tube or remove it.

That gunk on the top could be oil or WD-40, it turns to shellac over time. Hoppes #9 will dissolve that, use a bronze brush if you have to scrub it. Even if someone used glue on it, Hoppes will take it off.

You can use acetone and it won't hurt gun bluing, but I'd recommend it a mix of "Ed's Red" rather than straight.

http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

 

[Badlander]

Looky here. http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/board,89.0.htm
Hear is what you seek.

 

[Snowblind]

Thanks for the help. I don't think I have the chemical expertise to attempt making "Ed's Red" but I've heard good things about Hoppe's. (I use their gun oil. Looks like I'll be getting the matching cleaners)

 

[GooseGestapo]

1. The CRUD you described on top of the reciever is likely "lock-tite" from when the scope mounts were installed. Someone was a little too generous with the application.
Shooters Choice bore cleaner and 0000-steel (4-ought) will dissolve and remove the lock-tite. Be careful or you'll polish off the bluing. Acetone will also remove it (womens finger-nail polish remover). Be careful not to get this on the stock as it will remove the stock finish........

2. The barrel band is tightly fitted on the older (read better fitted) marlins. Spray a little WD-40 or gun oil adjacent to it in the direction you intend to move it. Carefully tap the band to slide it off the wood. Or better yet, take it to a gunsmith or have a more experienced shooter show you how to remove it without damaging a perfectly good gun.

3. Be sure to use lock-tite (sparringly) when reassembling the gun. Don't over tighten the screws to the point that you "bugger" the heads of them. This is the most common mistake that people make initially when learning to work on firearms.

4. Be sure to arrange and secure the parts as you remove them so you can reassemble them in the correct place and order. I've purchased some used firearms a penny's on the dollar because of missing parts...... 20-50 dollars later, I had a perfectly good firearm for less than half it'worth.

 

[W.E.G.]

Start with a set of hollow-ground screwdrivers that are correctly-sized for the few screws that will need to be removed to accomplish a detailed dis-assembly.

Penetrating oil and PATIENCE will help to loosen frozen screws.

Sometimes a little heat (tip of soldering iron on screw head), and/or impact (tap on end of screwdriver with hammer) will help to loosen screws that don't respond to just penetrating oil and patience.

If you use Loctite on screws during re-assembly, be sure to use BLUE Loctite. I can't think of anything on a 336 that would warrant the use of RED or Black. To make matters slightly confusing, the Blue and Red Loctite are each sold in a red container.

A can of compressed air (keyboard duster) is very helpful to blow crud out of difficult-to-reach areas.

 

[rogertc1]

I really dont think you need to completely dissasemble it. Not easy like breaking down a 1911. But if you want the challenge there are instructionals on the internet. Not real hard to do. Now a M92 is a pain in the butt.
As stated prior have good hollow ground screwdrivers and don't let them slip.

 

[mainmech48]

First thing: Marlin will send you a copy of the factory owner's manual if you ask for it. Get one. It'll tell you about everything you need to know about field-stripping and cleaning your 336, and its safe operation.

Also second the recs for obtaining a basic set of purpose-made "gunsmith" screwdrivers. More good firearms are messed-up by the use of "bargain bin" and hardware store screwdrivers than you'd believe. Those tapered tips can deform or even destroy the engagement slot on a tight-fitting screw and put a nasty gouge in the surrounding metal when they slip before you can say "Oh s**t!".

Personally, I wouldn't try any action disassembly past the standard field-stripping stage yourself unless you're fairly well versed and experienced in firearms work. IMHO, it shouldn't really be necessary in order to get the working parts cleaned up and relubed.

Minor rust spots can be easily dealt with by the use of a product such as "Corrosion-X" and a bit of bronze wool or a fine-bristled brass/bronze brush. Steel wool can damage or remove the original finish.

To remove the crudded-on scope mount I'd start with having that screwdriver set on hand then an application of a penetrating oil product such as "Kroil", "Liquid Wrench", etc.

Clamping your receiver vertically in a well-padded vice will make doing the job a lot easier, too.

After applying the penetrating oil and letting it work for a couple of hours, take your properly-fitting screwdriver and while keeping a firm downward pressure apply just a bit of counter-clockwise torque to the screw. Then give the handle of the screwdriver a couple of light taps with a small hammer of mallet while at the same time applying more torque on the screw with the driver. In most cases, you should feel the screw start to break loose and begin turning.

When all of the screws have been removed, the mount should come right off. In extreme cases a couple of light taps with a small brass or nylon-laced hammer or wooden mallet might be necessary. Clean off any residue left on the receiver with cleaning solvent and your bronze wool or brush.

Hope this is of help.

 

[Snowblind]

Fear not, I'm a pretty experienced hobbyist (if I do say so myself) and know well enough to not strip the screw heads. I don't often dis-assemble my guns, so I don't have any "gunsmith" screwdrivers, and don't really plan to invest seeing how seldom I'll use them.

The screws actually came right out, to my surprise. The scope/rail mount also came right off, just was pretty dirty underneath. The main issue was the barrel band, which might as well be glued on. Plus that stubborn goo.