Do-It-Yourself Felt Wad Making

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ClemBert

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I posted this a couple of years ago on another forum and thought I had also done that here at THR. Apparently not so I'm posting it here for those who may be interested.

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Lubricated felt wads can be used in the loading process to provide several advantages over plain cap-powder-ball loading. Specifically, among these advantages are (not listed in order and debatable by some):

1. Added sealing of the chamber to further reduce risk of chain fire.
2. Lubrication to aid in softening of powder residue/fouling.
3. Less messy as compare to grease/Crisco/oil on top of the ball.
4. Scrubbing/cleansing effect as the hard felt wad travels down the barrel.

There are those who may frown upon the use of lubricated felt wads preferring to either load plain cap-powder-ball or to smear grease over the ball. We do know that highly respected sources have recommended the use of a lubricated felt wad since at least 1930. Something tells me the smart fella who gave that advice probably learned that from some old timer's who learned it well before the 1930's.

The purpose of this thread is to provide some information to those too cheap, like myself, to buy pre-made lubricated wads and who prefer a more economical solution.

What you will need:

1. Felt

A perfect inexpensive source for the type of felt you want to use can be found at Duro-Felt. You want to use a product that is 100% wool and is hard/dense felt such as the FM1812H product. I placed an order with Duro-Felt online and received it in my mailbox two days later (Arkansas to Florida). That 12"x36" piece for $12 is enough to punch out over 1500 wads of .44/.45 caliber or over 2100 wads of .36/.380 caliber. I passed on the local Goodwill store as a source for cheap felt. I didn't want to deal with guessing the hardness or thickness of old used wool hats or trench coats or any critters that may or may not reside in said source of felt.

2. Punches

For punches a great solution are the hollow punch set found at Harbor Freight. Typically only $5.99 but often cheaper on sale at $4.99 or with the use of a coupon.

3. Lubricant

For lubricant there are going to be many varying opinions on what to use. For the purpose of keeping it simple here I'm going to specify the use of real beeswax mixed with Crisco shortening. Generally a 50-50 mix but vary it to suit your needs or temperature requirements. Also, you may consider using Bore Butter as your lubricant as it would appear that lubricated Wonder Wads use just plain ol' BB. There are many sources for beeswax online. Generally, the beeswax prices are reasonable but when you add shipping costs it can double the overall price. One readily available local source, for many, is Michaels Crafts . They generally charge around $18 for a pound of pure beeswax but be smart and use a 40% or 50% off coupon to get the cost down to reasonable levels. Also, Duro-Felt in now offering 100% pure lanolin specifically for making lubricated felt wads. It sells for $9.50 for 7 fluid ounces.

If you want to go with something more sophisticated than the 50/50 Crisco/Beeswax mix then try the well documented Gatofeo Lube #1 recipe:

Gatofeo Lube #1 (measure everything by weight NOT volume):
1 part mutton tallow (sold at Dixie Gun Works)
1 part canning paraffin
1/2 part beeswax

Below is a pic of the HF punch set. It comes with 9 hollow punches. For my purposes only two of the punches are of interest. Specifically, the 3/8 (0.375) and the 7/16 (0.4375) punches. The 3/8 punch serves the .36 caliber revolvers and the 7/16 serves the .44/.45 caliber revolvers. Some of you will be able to make good use of the 1/2 (0.500) punch.

Wads009.jpg

The 0.4375 diameter of the 7/16 punch isn't quite large enough to satisfy my need for a .45 caliber wad. So, using my trusty grinder bit that fits my Dremel tool I decided to open up the diameter to something more suitable for .45 caliber revolvers.

Wads006.jpg

I increased the diameter of the 7/16 punch to 0.455. It only took a couple of minutes to do this with the Dremel tool. While I was at it I decided to increase the diameter of the 3/8 punch from 0.375 to 0.380. Just enough to make the cutting edge really sharp.

Wads002.jpg

Next, it was just a matter of sitting in front of the TV with mindless TV on and punching out the wads. I used an old chunk of a cedar tree to punch on top of. The punches, after increasing their diameters, are so sharp it doesn't take much effort to punch out the hard felt. In a matter of a 20 minutes I was able to punch out hundreds of wads. You can use a chunk of 4x4 or 2x6 as your cutting surface to punch on top of.

Wads005.jpg

The last step is to lubricate your felt wads with your choice of lubricant. The easy way may be to use Bore Butter like the Wonder Wad brand uses. My concoction is a mix of beeswax and Crisco as explained above. There is always Gatofeo Lube #1 or your own personal mix depending on your environmental factors.

With the lubricant in a melted liquid form it is just a matter of dipping/soaking the un-lubricated felt wads in the solution sufficiently. Remove the soaked felt wad while the lubricant is still dripping hot and let cool. Some of you have complained that you didn't think that lubricated Wonder Wads had enough lubricant on them. Here is your chance to make some wads that are really loaded up with lubricant.

To lube, use the double boiler method. A used pet food tin works great. The felt wads will soak up all the melted lube they can on their own.

Wads003.jpg

Then, it's just a matter of plucking them out, letting them cool, bagging them and labeling them until you are ready to use.

Wads005-1.jpg

If anyone has cheaper or better sources for materials please chime in. This post isn't meant to be a this way or the highway type post. Rather, it is one cheapskate's method to make lubricated felt wads by giving actual sources/links for materials. YMMV.
 
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Nice write up. I made my own punch for .44 cal wads out of a piece of 3/8" galv pipe. The wads are a little large, so I think I'll get a real punch.

I might buy one of the arch punches from McMaster-Carr.

A little more expensive than the Harbor Freight punches.

The felt from Duro-Felt is great stuff. I lube my patches with Bore Butter for now.
 
Excelent thread. I'm ordering the punches now.
On second thought, think I'll wait and see if there will be coupon.
Punches, shipping, and sales tax comes to $16.01
 
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Nice write up! Pretty much exactly the way I make mine.

This should be stickied though for everyone to have easy access to from now on out!
 
Wondering how this would work in BP shotgun?
Powder, shirt cardboard disc, One or two of these as shot cushion discs, shot & topped off with another shirt cardboard disc.
Could be a winner!
 
Great photos too!
BTW I hogged out the interior of the punches with a Dremel by taking out the shelf inside the punch so the wads slide up more smoothly. Otherwise they jam and then fling out. Plus, if you chuck the punches into a drill press you can punch wads out a whole lot faster over a small hardwood block than by pounding.
 
I think it was your post a year ago or more that got me making mine. I do it the same exact way and its easy and works flawlessly. Thank you. Kevin.
 
I found that the cheap plastic cutting boards are better for punching than a wood block. I use 11mm for my punch size for the 44-45 wads.
 
ClemBert,

I'm gonna ask a dumb question here but.....

When you lubricate these wads "after" they are punched out don't they all stick together when they cool? Other than wasting at least 50% of the lube concoction would it be easier and less messy to lube the felt "before" you punch them out?

I just ordered 300 lubed wads from Cabelas along with a weather station using my points. I had some left over from a couple of years ago that I finally used a week or so ago 'cause I found them in my shooting box, they are a heck of lot cleaner than Crisco over the ball I must admit, but if I didn't have the points at Cabelas I'm way too cheap to buy them.

Your post has convinced me that I will definitely order the components to make my own, thanks. Besides I'm gonna be down south until way after it gets hot and my Wyoming Crisco method WILL NOT work down here.
 
Foto Joe,

I lube my felt wads and then lay them out on a piece of aluminum foil to cool in the freezer. If the lube mix is stiff enough, they don't stick together when stored in a small bullet box. ;)
 
Other sources for wad punches, wad making materials and wads:

1. Buffalo Arms

http://www.buffaloarms.com/

A. Drill press wad cutters, hammer struck punches & loading press wad punches:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/wad_punches_pr-3756.aspx

B. Cork and vegetable fiber wad material:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/wad_materials_pr-3757.aspx

C. Bulk packages of up to 1000 lubricated wool wads and vegetable fiber wads:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/wads_pr-3755.aspx

2. Brettunes Village of Auburn, Maine is a U.S. manufacturer of a complete line of both English and Metric arch punches. They will also make them in custom sizes for the perfect fit.

http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/tools/tools.html#metricpunches
 
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Have you checked out Sears? We just have a catalog store here, and my computer can't handle thier web site. Gonna check them out at the library. The bigger stores in bigger cities should carry some. From what I have been able to see they have a good selection of hoolw punches.
 
Foto Joe said:
ClemBert,

I'm gonna ask a dumb question here but.....

When you lubricate these wads "after" they are punched out don't they all stick together when they cool? Other than wasting at least 50% of the lube concoction would it be easier and less messy to lube the felt "before" you punch them out?

Nope, they don't stick together at all. Maybe they would if you jacked up the content of Crisco beyond the 50/50 mix. Some folks DO dip their felt into the lube prior to punching but I don't see why I would want to waste lube, make a mess of my punches, and make a mess of my cutting block. I just don't see how it could be less messy lubing the felt before punching. Besides, when you punch them with lube on them all ready you probably are asking the wads to stick together as they do compress a bit inside of the punch before you poke them out.
 
ClemBert said:
Nope, they don't stick together at all.

Got it, exactly what I was looking for. Somebody to make the mistake before me and save me the trouble.

My wife says I "over-think" stuff a lot. I'm still trying to figure out what she meant by that.
 
If you put way too much lube in the pan that you dump the dry wads into they will be saturated and stick together. Sometimes if I do that I will add extra wads and let them draw some of the excess liquid (still hot from melting) lube out of the wetter ones. Then i put them out to cool on a sheet of foil and spread them out to cool. does great for chapped hands.
 
I tried lubing the felt before punching once.
Never again! I am not known for being neat but this mess was above and beyond anything I have gotten into before.:cuss:
Punch them first then lube!
I use a little griddle that has the teflon worn off of it. Spread a few tablespoons of lube on the warm griddle, dump a couple of handfuls of wads on the lube and stir them around. when I get them lubed to my satisfaction I dump them off on to card board to cool. Scrape them off the cardboard into zip locks.
 
guys im new here, but no newbie to bp! ill tell ya the cheapest way to make wads i have found! i go to garage sales and resale shops and pick up old felt cowboy or any hat , usually fer a dollar or two, i make aprox 600 44 wads outta one and around 750 .36 out of one big cowboy hat harbor freight sells a hollow punch set fer under 10 bucks and they have all the correct sizes to do 44,36 , 31 cal i put the punched out wads in a baggie and add a little olive oil and shake em around ,then set it in the sun fer the day, the oil "wicks" into all the wads evenly and yer set ! ive been doin this fer quite some time now and have never thought of ever buying another wad
 
An excellent post. I agree that it should become a sticky.
Much of what you posted was tried by me years ago. It's why I've stuck with these methods: they work.

I believe I was the first to propose using a pet food or tuna can, about 10 years ago. I haven't seen the need to change because it works so well. However, I use the same can to store my wads in, after snapping a plastic pet food lid over the cool can. But if you're going afield, a small Zip-Loc bag is the gato's meow. :D

And yes, with Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant the felt wads can stick together a bit, but it's a non-issue. It doesn't take much to separate them. Softer, oiler lubricants probably don't have that problem.

I believe that I discovered Duro Felt for shooters, writing of it about 10 years ago. I visited the owner at her business in Little Rock, Arkansas about eight years ago. She is of Indian heritage, and her family has a large felt-making business in India. Her felt is 100% wool, an old tradition in contrast to most of today's felt that is made of polyester (plastic).
The owner is a very nice lady, and she was surprised to learn that shooters would be interested in her felt. I imagine she's had quite an educationi since, because Duro-Felt has become popular with shooters. Shipping is free within the U.S., and her prices are good.
Frankly, as cheap as you can buy from Duro-Felt, and purchase a hole punch, I can't understand why people continue to pay nearly 10 cents per wad from commercial sources. You can make your own wads for a cent apiece, or less, and give them a moist lubricant that is more effective than the commercial dry lubricant.

Do lubricated wads scrape fouling from the bore? I believe they do, but it would be hard to prove. Recovered, fired wads of hard felt show a reverse image of the rifling in my revolvers. This tells me that the wad is getting down into the grooves.
The use of a lubricated wad between ball and powder is not only less messy, but the bore is clean for its length. If I use grease over the ball, the last third of the bore (from the muzzle back) is fouled.
I swear by lubricated felt wads and swear at grease over the ball. ;)

The earliest reference I've found to the use of a lubricated felt wad in cap and ball sixguns is a 1928 American Rifleman magazine. The late gun writer (and Army officer) Charles Askins suggested their use. From the way he replied to a reader's inquiry, it appeared to be a long-established practice.
When did the use of a lubricated felt wad begin in cap and ball revolvers? I have no idea but suspect it dates to the early 20th century or late 19th century. I know of no 19th century accounts of soldiers, cowboys or pioneers doing so.

I've used lubricated felt wads in my cap and ball revolvers since the early 1980s. The late gun writer Elmer Keith wrote of it in his classic 1955 book, "Sixguns."
There's a reason the practice has hung on so long: it works, and works better than smearing grease over the seated ball.
Now, there are times you're forced to use grease over the projectile, particularly with conical bullets that have no groove to fill with grease (an old design).
But if you're shooting balls like the majority of us, you'll find a properly lubricated felt wad is the bee's knees. :D
 
howdy ugly cat! we aint spoke in a while but as usual you are spot on! i aint sayin everybody should do it my way, just throwin out an option im as cheap as they come and to me this was the cheapest wat to get 600 wads fer a buck i could think of!!
 
I have made paper wads for use in making shot loads using a cartridge case for the cutter Not tried it on felt but hey give it a try. I used a spent .45 Colt (darn it I STILL want to say "Long Colt" and STILL feel its OK to do so) to punch out shirt board to make some shot loads for a .44 Brasser '51.

A friend uses a gimmicked up .357 to cut out paper plates of .38 Special/.357 shot loads. His is used with a drill press to spin the sucker rather than hammering it through like us primative types.

WOnder if a spent .32 S&W Long would make a good punch for a .31 pistol load? Or maybe an 8mm Mauser with a slot /hole in the side to extract they disks from........ TO THE MAN CAVE, ROBIN....the game is afoot!

-kBob
 
I'm back! Man climbing back up the Bat Pole is a pain in the gazootee. Got to get a Bat Elevator installed.

Dug out an old Berdan primed 8mm Mauser case. Ran a chainsaw file (think rat tail file) in and around the case mouth to sharpen it up and hammered it through some stout paper from a pack of sandpaper.

What that Greek guy said in the bath tub!!!!

Punched out neat little round paper discs AND they fit the chambers of that cute little Remmie .31 Praire Dawg sold me last month prefectly. Have not tried drilling a hole for removal of discs from side of case yet so it was slow digging out each newly formed disc of "shirt board" but seriously those disc were like made for the .31 chambers.

Only felt I had was some thin stuff used to make a felt board as a teaching aid with and it is made of Somethingium instead of wool so that was a wash but I will seach over the next few weeks for somthing more like roofing felt to try it on.

Maybe the case would last longer as a punch if I bored out the case head and just used a stick to punch out the discs every four or five stamps Hmmm...

Perhaps I should hunt up a .45-70 case for .44 BP revolver punch making and a 9x18mm Makerov case for .36 BP revolver. Maybe a .38-55 case for the .36s?

Somebody with proper felt try this please!!!!

-kBob
 
My posting was not meant to be taken as a post of "original" material discovered or created by me. The information contained in the post is nothing more than a collection of information I have gathered from others and through the internet. Credit goes to all those fine folks who gave their input. Likely, they picked up this info from others too. The purpose of the post entitled "Do-It-Youself Felt Wad Making" was to give a complete description (with pictures) of everything that a cheapskate (like me) uses to make lubricated felt wads. The topic of wad making comes up every once in a while and folks always chime in with tidbits here and there but it seemed that no one put it all together in one post with pictures and links. That was the purpose of the initial post. That is, to give y'all who are interested a linked source for material NOT just quick zingers on a pieces of the puzzle. So again, give credit where credit is due...that is with those who originally came up with all this stuff...NOT ME. ;)

Now, I would like to make a comment about those going to garage sales or the Goodwill store looking for cheap used felt hats from which you plan to punch hundreds of wads. If that floats your boat that's fine. But I'm too cheap to spend gas money driving around looking for those items. In addition, I'd rather spend my time shooting. Some of you fellas just crack me up as in the long run it's probably cheaper to buy Duro-Felt. But if you'd rather spend your time driving and shopping instead of shooting then that's your prerogative. It is true that Duro-Felt will be missing the head lice, oil, and sweat that comes with an old hat so it may not be as interesting but I assure you that Duro-Felt will most likely shoot better. The Duro-Felt will be the exact thickness and hardness that you need. Also, it will be 100% wool. Don't expect an old hat to be 100% wool. It's possible that that old hat contains some polyester fibers and boy will that be fun to clean up after. Anyhoo, I am not a spokes person for Duro-Felt and I receive no compensation. All I can say is that I get a great product at a great price and it only takes two days to get it from Arkansas to Florida. Shipping is included in the price.

Some of y'all just crack me up....:D
 
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