JLDickmon
Member
just long enough to remove lube.. 20 minutes maybe..
no need to tumble ammo loaded with a carbide die..
no need to tumble ammo loaded with a carbide die..
Do you tumble after loading
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medalguy
Member
Yep, done it for many years, hundreds of thousands of rounds.
Here's a link to a good article on tumbling ammo over on ARF:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/98...torture_test__UPDATE__fired_rounds_in_OP.html
Here's a link to a good article on tumbling ammo over on ARF:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/98...torture_test__UPDATE__fired_rounds_in_OP.html
bobinoregon
Member
I tumble all of mine in walnut and nufinish to remove lube or fingerprints from handling before I bag them. I like shiny
Still Shooting
Member
Tumble Loaded Rounds?
Whether the powder guys are right or wrong, I don't tumble loaded rounds. My process is as follows:
1) Tumble fired brass with primers in place
2) Resize and case trim
3) Clean primer pockets with a pocket brush
4) Clean in my Hornady ultrasonic cleaner
5) Prime and load.
I would never tumble primed cases, as I often see a few pieces of media in the ultrasound bath after Step (4). I don't want to have one of those pieces nestled in the primer anvil.
I might add that right now, I am only reloading rifle ammo.
Whether the powder guys are right or wrong, I don't tumble loaded rounds. My process is as follows:
1) Tumble fired brass with primers in place
2) Resize and case trim
3) Clean primer pockets with a pocket brush
4) Clean in my Hornady ultrasonic cleaner
5) Prime and load.
I would never tumble primed cases, as I often see a few pieces of media in the ultrasound bath after Step (4). I don't want to have one of those pieces nestled in the primer anvil.
I might add that right now, I am only reloading rifle ammo.
wanderinwalker
Member
I have done it and it didn't cause me to lose any sleep. I was running .223 on a progressive before a match in a time crunch. Instead of wiping each round off, I tossed them in the tumbler for 10-15 minites. Shiny ammo, dirty media and it all worked fine. Didn't notice any accuracy difference either.
Point: I don't see a need to do it regularly, but I'll do it if needed.
Point: I don't see a need to do it regularly, but I'll do it if needed.
LiveLife
Member
Found the thread for you where Walkalong and snuffy, after 48 hours of vibratory tumbling newly loaded rounds, examined the powders for break down, measured the OALs and ranged tested with chronos. Results - No break down of powder, no reduction of OALs and no change to muzzle velocities/SD - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6210466#post6210466ljnowell said:
I think this myth may have come from someone tumbling old/surplus ammo to clean/polish the brass case where the powder has started to break down or already broke down and saw that tumbling made it worse. I would not tumble old/ammo (just hand wipe clean/polish) but would not hesitate to tumble newly loaded rounds.
thump_rrr
Member
I deprime and wet tumble all of my brass.
Once my rounds are loaded I throw them in the vibratory tumbler with some corncob and Nu Finish to remove any handling marks before puting them in my MTM boxes.
Don't make the mistake of doing this to hollowpoints or you'll be picking corn cob out of the ends of them for hours.
Don't ask me how I know this.
Once my rounds are loaded I throw them in the vibratory tumbler with some corncob and Nu Finish to remove any handling marks before puting them in my MTM boxes.
Don't make the mistake of doing this to hollowpoints or you'll be picking corn cob out of the ends of them for hours.
Don't ask me how I know this.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I don't do it because it seems like a waste of time. Sorta like lubing cases that get resized in carbide dies.
The powder could get shipped around the world 100 times on a wagon and I don't think it would come close to 48hrs in a tumbler.
RustyFN
Member
Courious how you remove case lube? If you have a faster way than a tumbler I would love to hear it.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I don't. I do very, very little shooting of bottle-necked rifle cartridges. When I do, I wipe it off. When I load for the .32-20 and .38-40, I apply a light film of gun oil before sizing and wipe it off afterwards.
RustyFN
Member
Darn I'm always looking for a better/faster way to do things.
4895
Member
I have tumbled ammo after reloading and haven't found a problem until lately. I have been using IMR 4895, Varget, and H 380 to work loads up for my .22-250 deer rifle. I tumbled the loads with H380 for about 20 minutes after loading and noticed a sticky bolt upon extraction and often times more severe recoil. I thought this was expected since I hadn't fired the rifle in a few years. Then I started to shoot the "untumbled" IMR4895 loads I worked up 6 years ago and they felt like a nice soft recoil I had remembered. Then I worked up some loads with Varget without tumbling and they too felt like normal recoil with top speed and easy bolt lift and case extraction. Unless H380 is specifically that hot I cannot understand what happened unless the tumbling had affected the ammo. I loaded about 140 rounds with H380 into 4 different bullets and they all shot so hard the rifle would buck up off the bipod! This is unusual for this caliber and of concern. Unfortunately I am out of H380 and will have to wait for my next trip to the store to compare results with untumbled ammo.
As for me, I will no longer tumble rifle rounds after loading until I can confirm for myself any negative affect from it. I will be testing my pistol ammo as well, but have never noticed a difference with it.
As for me, I will no longer tumble rifle rounds after loading until I can confirm for myself any negative affect from it. I will be testing my pistol ammo as well, but have never noticed a difference with it.
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345 DeSoto
Member
I run my plated, reloaded .45 ACP rounds through my vibratory tumbler after I reload. I use corn cob with Nu Finish in it. The Nu Finish keeps the rounds from tarnishing for a LONG time in storage. 6.5 grains of Unique with 185 grain Berrys HBRN, and have found no difference in recoil at all between the tumbled rounds, and the untumbled rounds...FWIW
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ljnowell
Member
I didnt say it would. I mentioned the 48 hours because thats what walkalong did on here as a test. I was referring to the 20 mins or so most people tumble it. Thanks for singling out that comment and taking it out of context though.
Depends on how many cases you have to do, but for me it's usually faster to hand tumble them around in a cake pan lined with paper towels doused in denatured alcohol. 10-20 seconds of this removes 90% of the case lube that I use. All the powder blackened lube comes off, and the cases are shiny and non greasy (enough) to the touch.
Lubed cases in dirty media pick up a lot of dust. If you tumble off the lube, you might consider using only new media for the final step. I'm pretty sure that's what the factories do. Every once in a long while I find some tiny bits of super clean corn cob in the HP's or around the primers of my factory ammo.
jcwit
member
I rinse mine in a bowl with some white gas AKA naptha in it. It evaporates quickly and whats left is returned to the can. Works like a charm and yes I realize the solution is flammable and can cause a fire, so can filling my lawn mower.
Well I do lube my handgun caliber cases, usually with a spritz of spray teflon, makes life easier, and I like easy. Most will when arthritis gets bad enough.
RustyFN
Member
I think another positive point for tumbling after loading is I add Nu Finish car polish in my media and it keeps the brass from tarnishing.
Just wanted to know if you leave them sitting around for a while do they tarnish?
Just wanted to know if you leave them sitting around for a while do they tarnish?
jcwit
member
Rusty, The question possed by you in your post #34 was how does one remove lube, I answered that question in my post #42 by rinising in white gas.
From that point on was not addressed by your question.
Actually I do then tumble the cases in 20/40 Corn Cob media from DrillSpot with Auto Cleaning Polish added. Currently I happen to be using a can of paste Mcguiars I no longer use on my car. I do not wish to have all the lube in my media. No, I have no problem with tarnish.
RustyFN
Member
I see. I thought after the white gas you were done.
BillB204
Member
No. I have doubts about the powder breaking down argument. But having all those live rounds with live primers jostling around and bouncing into each other just doesn't feel safe. If one in a million rounds can go off, that's one too many. And after spending all of the time and effort loading precision rifle rounds, why throw them in a tumbler to potentially ding up the bullets and/or cause additional run out. And there shouldn't be a good reason to do it.
To clean and super shine precision rifle rounds;
De-prime and size;
Ultrasonic clean for 32 min with Lemi-shine, citric acid and a small amount of dishwashing liquid;
Rinse with tap water, distilled water then tap water again;
Organize in open case storage box and dry with hair dryer;
Tumble for 1 hour with Nu-Shine;
Cases are completely clean (including primer pockets), no case lube, shine better than new and ready for weight separating, priming and loading.
To clean and shine pistol rounds or non-precision rifle rounds (for high volume, fast progressive press loading):
Tumble for 2 hours with Nu-Shine;
Lube cases
Full progressive load from de-prime and size to bullet seating and crimp;
Rub loaded rounds with a hand towel about 10-20 at a time depending on caliber.
This will remove 90% of the lube. The remaining 10% is not going to interfere with shooting.
This will result in very clean and bright brass but not super shiny. But do you really need super shiny when you're shooting this type of high volume ammo?
To clean and super shine precision rifle rounds;
De-prime and size;
Ultrasonic clean for 32 min with Lemi-shine, citric acid and a small amount of dishwashing liquid;
Rinse with tap water, distilled water then tap water again;
Organize in open case storage box and dry with hair dryer;
Tumble for 1 hour with Nu-Shine;
Cases are completely clean (including primer pockets), no case lube, shine better than new and ready for weight separating, priming and loading.
To clean and shine pistol rounds or non-precision rifle rounds (for high volume, fast progressive press loading):
Tumble for 2 hours with Nu-Shine;
Lube cases
Full progressive load from de-prime and size to bullet seating and crimp;
Rub loaded rounds with a hand towel about 10-20 at a time depending on caliber.
This will remove 90% of the lube. The remaining 10% is not going to interfere with shooting.
This will result in very clean and bright brass but not super shiny. But do you really need super shiny when you're shooting this type of high volume ammo?
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SSN Vet
Member
Nope...
but I do use Imperial sizing die wax, and when the loaded cartridge comes off the press I wipe the wax off with a paper towel and inspect it.... then I drop it in the tray all nice and shiny.
I wind up with just a little residual wax on the brass, which I feel aides in feeding the cartridge and protects the brass from oxidation.
but I do use Imperial sizing die wax, and when the loaded cartridge comes off the press I wipe the wax off with a paper towel and inspect it.... then I drop it in the tray all nice and shiny.
I wind up with just a little residual wax on the brass, which I feel aides in feeding the cartridge and protects the brass from oxidation.
stubbicatt
Member
Yes. For a short while to remove resizing lube.
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