LHRGunslinger
Member
How hard is it to properly duracoat.....lets say an AK74? How easy is it to screw up & get an amateurish look? I'm thinking of doing the Vietnam Tiger Stripe pattern. Would I have to put tape on the internal surfaces?
Duracoat?
- Thread starter LHRGunslinger
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VinnAY
Member
I've been experimenting with duracoat and if there was one thing that I'd suggest to you is to use the duraBAKE that comes in the aerosol can. Of course this one has to be baked which may not be an option for you but for initial ease of use it's superior to duracoat. With duracoat you're mixing hardener in a makeshift aerosol delivery system (Preval)(or airbrush if you so choose to buy one). The mixed life is ~8 hours so you have time to work. Also, if you think you need four ounces, order 8. The sprayer doesn't pick up all the product in the bottle and you'll need more. The sprayer (Preval) doesn't work at too many angles so you have to arrange your stuff in a way that you can spray it without having to point it up/down. You don't want to run out and then have to mix another batch and chance having a difference in the color tone because you mixed two batches. Mix one big batch, spray, throw away the excess.
Clean clean clean your parts, I tossed mine in the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle (be sure to run it again empty before you go back to use for dishes). The actual application I think was straight forward and easy.
Strip your weapon all the way down or tape off parts that shouldn't be coated, duracoat will significantly changed a close tolerance or fitted part so much so that when you go to reassemble it it won't go back together because the part is now thicker.
Clean clean clean your parts, I tossed mine in the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle (be sure to run it again empty before you go back to use for dishes). The actual application I think was straight forward and easy.
Strip your weapon all the way down or tape off parts that shouldn't be coated, duracoat will significantly changed a close tolerance or fitted part so much so that when you go to reassemble it it won't go back together because the part is now thicker.
LHRGunslinger
Member
So if the weapon was blued would I have to remove that before applying the dura bake or could I leave it as is?
EDIT: I was just looking at the DuraCoat website & looking at how the peel & stick patterns work. And i must say Holy Crap that's easy.
EDIT: I was just looking at the DuraCoat website & looking at how the peel & stick patterns work. And i must say Holy Crap that's easy.
VinnAY
Member
I think that DuraCoat has a list of finishes that DuraCoat will play nicely with and how to prep each for application but I don't see blueing on there, its a simple call for info, they're real helpful.
This might help you:
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_easy.html
This might help you:
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_easy.html
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
I Duracoated my AKS-74 after I finished the build and I've been pleased enough with it. Don't expect it to magically hold up under the safety lever's constant rubbing, but otherwise it seems acceptably durable.
The application process is easy if you have any experience producing a nice spray finish on anything. Go light.
Also, do the very best job you can degreasing. Heating it all up in the oven is a good way to get some of the oils out of the crevices, but really you need to degrease afterward, and then do it again. Maybe again once more.
I thought I had it all bare, but after several range sessions oil reappeared from places like the gas block and floated the finish back off. Not enough for me to care... at all... but I'm not you, and you might!
I wouldn't worry too much about masking parts, except maybe for plugging the bore. The stuff does have a significant amount of "build" so you don't want to coat close-fit internal parts, but the AK doesn't really have any!
Good luck!
The application process is easy if you have any experience producing a nice spray finish on anything. Go light.
Also, do the very best job you can degreasing. Heating it all up in the oven is a good way to get some of the oils out of the crevices, but really you need to degrease afterward, and then do it again. Maybe again once more.
I thought I had it all bare, but after several range sessions oil reappeared from places like the gas block and floated the finish back off. Not enough for me to care... at all... but I'm not you, and you might!
I wouldn't worry too much about masking parts, except maybe for plugging the bore. The stuff does have a significant amount of "build" so you don't want to coat close-fit internal parts, but the AK doesn't really have any!
Good luck!
VinnAY
Member
I'll be doing my WASR in turn with a 1911 in about a week or so, I'll been building up the 1911 and want to get it running right and complete before I refinish it and find out I have a problem somewhere.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Get Duracoat on your well-fit slide rails or the lugs where the beavertail safety rides and you will have a problem for sure! Ask me how I know...
VinnAY
Member
Yep I'll have the critical areas taped off, when I did the barrel bushing I quickly found out to not coat the back side of it because it wouldn't fit the slide or the barrel afterwards and had to be sanded down to fit!
LHRGunslinger
Member
Thanks for all the advice. And Sam I shake my fist at you for having the exact AK I want.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Oh, it's a nice one! I've shot 2" groups with Russian surplus ammo at 100 yds.
That's the rifle I use for matches and the occasional carbine class.
I think the kit was $300 and a friend with 15 or 20 AK builds under his belt helped me put it together on a Nodakspud receiver. It came out so well that he keeps trying to buy it from me.
'Course, his (apparantly un-issued) SBR AKS-74U makes me drool, so I guess we're about even.
I've shot 2" groups with Russian surplus ammo at 100 yds. That's the rifle I use for matches and the occasional carbine class.
I think the kit was $300 and a friend with 15 or 20 AK builds under his belt helped me put it together on a Nodakspud receiver. It came out so well that he keeps trying to buy it from me.
'Course, his (apparantly un-issued) SBR AKS-74U makes me drool, so I guess we're about even.
LHRGunslinger
Member
DAMNIT SAM! Now I need to get a new shirt cause this one is soaked with drool.
usnmars
Member
I did my mosin in alumahyde. So far the stuff is bulletproof. Easy to use because it is in a spray can. I just shredded masking tape for my stripes, I think it came out pretty darn good. I have shot maybe 1k rounds through it and not one scratch yet. My only complaint is it takes 3 weeks to cure. I started out painting the entire rifle black. Once that settled in for three weeks, I shredded masking tape into the little tiger stripes. I placed them at random on the stock and sprayed the entire thing in OD green. I let that sit for three weeks and then did my highlights with an artists paint brush. I used alumahyde again, but since it is in a rattle can, I sprayed it on a paper plate and just dabbed it up with a brush and went at it
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