Firing pin replacement on a Browning Buckmark

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huaco

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With no less than 40 bricks through it my Buckmark just won't clear a mag without at least one failure to fire. The same round will usually fire if I cycle it back through. This pistol has always been picky about ammo but once I learned that it liked Winchester Super X High Velocity it could go through hundreds of rounds without a problem as long as I kept it clean. Back then if one did not fire it usually would not fire if I tried it again. The hammer spring tension feels ok but I have nothing with which to compare it. The dents on the rims are not impressive but they never really were. Probably a bit less dented now.

I've decided to replace the firing pin. I removed it recently for the first time ever and got everything nice and clean in the firing pin chamber, examimed the pin and put it back together but it still won't clear a mag without a click or two. The business end of the pin looked fine. The back end might be a little dinged but it's barely perceptable. I'm guessing the pin was always a bit short and now it's another bit shorter and that's the problem.

Comments on the above are welcome but here's my real question. The parts list on the Browning website flags this as a part that must be fitted by a qualified gunsmith. I was able to remove the roll pin that retains the firing pin and get the firing pin spring out and back in ok. My guess is that they are concerned about making sure the new firing pin doesn't protrude into the breech where it could cause a slamfire or even full auto because it's too long or not installed properly. I can deal with that. One other thought I have had is that the firing pin actually needs to be ground to the proper length. Would that be a normal part of a firing pin replacement in this gun?
 
If it were me I would stretch it just a bit and see if it improves. What you are describing to me sounds like a short firing pin as much as anything else.

Peen it just slightly over the length, stretch it by .020" or so and see what happens. Be careful stretching it, you will bend it if you aren't careful.
 
HSMITH
I thought about that but this part seems to be very hard. Can I get away with just beating on it until it's a bit longer without other adverse affects? It is more or less rectangular but has some hooks and slots to fit with the retaining roll pin and the spring and those dimensions will change too and won't beating on it affect the hardness? On the other hand it's not right anyway so what can I lose by fooling with it? I did some time many years ago as a mechanical engineer but a gunsmith I am not so I'm doing this by feel.
 
I replaced the firing pin, recoil spring, recoil spring guide, buffer and top plate screw all for under $50.00 aby my local gunsmith. All parts were ordered directly from Browning. I agree that the firing pin "seems" suspect however I might also add that a burr on the bolt face might be creating drag on the pin as it's traveling forward. Many times with .22LR's I have found small bits of gilding metal deep in the action from the inherintly dirty outside lubrication this cartridge uses. Sometimes just the right location is all it takes to make a tight fitting part slow down just enough to be erratic.
 
I think HSMITH is right about stretcjomg the firing pin as being a simple and quick fix. I started getting FTF on my Buckmark after many years of shooting and many rounds. The gunsmith I took it to stretched the firing pin just a little and the problem stopped, or at least it has since the work. Not exactly sure how he did it.
 
Stay away from the ends. That is where the hardness really matters. As far as the slots and things, stretch it a little over the length and you won't change the position of any one by enough to matter.

I would peen it with a flat dolly, just enough to see the surface 'shine' a little, and measure. IIRC that firing pin is about 2" long, it won't take much to get 10 or 20 thou.

r.e. mentions something dragging on the pin. Have you assembled and checked for this?
 
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