First range trip with the Howa 1500

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chains1240

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Hello all. I just got back from my first range trip with my new Howa 1500 in .308. Shooting 150 grain Core Lokts I sighted it in at 100 yards in 4 shots. I was able to put 2 shots within .75 and another shot 3" left of that shot. Moving out to 200 yards my first two were within 2" of each other with one about 5" left. I attribute the flyers to my lack of skill. The wind was kicking up too. All in all I think it was a successful trip. Recoil felt like my grandfathers 35 remington without a recoil pad, not bad at all. I plan on breaking in the barrel more and running through the 20 rounds of remington I have left. Perhaps try Fusions or another brand when I increase my skill.
 
Congrats. I have one of those on order from Mel over at SniperCentral. Does your's have a heavy barrel?
 
My brother's Howa 1500 .270 combo rig with the Nikko Stirling was printing 1 inch at 100 yds using factory Winchester power point 130 gr. SP. $500 OTD .
 
No, mine does not have the heavy barrel. I was thinking about getting a heavy barrel until I hefted one up to my shoulder. Even though I do not stalk deer the heavy barrel was just too heavy and did not point naturally for me. The rifle I bought may b e a 1 moa in capable hands. I need more trigger time and I am going to buy a box eack of WWB, Fusion, and Federal Accubond after I run through my remaining 31 rounds of Remington. Also going to try 165 grain.
 
if you did not clean the bbl really good when you bought it; go ahead and do that now- it is proly full of crud. make sure you get out the copper also.
Howa is a very good, and underrated rifle; i would say proly the best of the entry level rifles.
 
O yeah the break in procedures I remember those.. Use Windex :D if you don't have instructions for Howa's break in barrel procedures go to legacy sports and read them http://www.legacysports.com/products/howa/howa_breakin.html

My Howa by the way turned out to be a "lemon slip" :uhoh: so I went with TC, got factory sub MOA guarantee and the target which came with it...
 
I have some cleaner that is made to remove copper. I just need a nylon brush. I did clean the barrel with Hoppes and patches after only a few rounds.
 
After looking at the barrel break in procedures posted on Legacy I hope I didn't screw up my new rifle. I shot a total of 9 rounds the day I went to the range. I was loading one at a time for the first 4 and walking back and forth to the 100 yard target to see where it hit. Then I loaded 3 and slowly shot them. Then i loaded 2 more and shot them. In terms of a hunting rifle is the break in procedure needed less than if it were a target rifle? Did I just ruin my new rifle?
 
I would stay away from Windex and ammonia... get boretech eliminator they also sell their own brand of brushes jugs bore-guides use it then you will not need to buy carbon remover, then copper remover and lubricator for you barrel it like all in one package.

http://www.boretech.com/

Or you can go with advance KG products, I think they only sell chemicals, I use KG-1 Carbon remover, KG-2 Bore Restore, KG-3 Solvent and Degreaser and finally KG-12 Copper Remover
http://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=4&pg=1
 
another thing always clean it from receiver in one direction, get a bore guide it will keep you barrel from accidental scratching try not to dent or scratch muzzle crown, make sure you barrel is free-floated and finally get it glass bedded
 
Chains, your rifle is fine. :) FWIW, rifle competitors ("High Power" competition) shoot their entire matches with out cleaning - 88 rounds IIRC.

There are a lot of us who do not buy into barrel break-in at all. I like to clean aggressively on new factory rifles, but don't do the hours long clean and shoot process.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=519910

DIM, in that other thread you state that Howa's directions are good to go, here you state that Windex sux. Which is it? I also have a pair of rifles that shoot better with pressure on the barrel. What makes you think all rifles shoot better free floated?
 
I used Windex before and it works, but KG-1 or Boretech can do it more efficiently, stopped using Windex because of the ammonia which is present in the Windex solute...

P.S I break in now and I believe it helps keep barrel free from fouling, also it is easier and faster to clean barrels after they completed break in.
 
free floated vs not, well it can shoot good if its not free floated then you would have to bed not just the action but the entire barrel where it touches the stock...
 
Well I shot a total of 30 rounds out of the rifle so far. When I went out today I shot 3 rounds then cleaned the bore with copper eliminator and patched dry. Then shot 5 rounds and repeated the process. My groups were not all that great but all of them were within a 3" diameter at 100 yards. More time and more practice. Thank you everyone for the advise. Back to the range I go.
 
I don't believe in bore break in. Shoot all you want, then go home and clean until your patches come out clean. Copper solvent is something that is used after hundreds of rounds have been fired. Your rifle may not shoot its best until it has a little copper buildup. We can overthink this stuff.
 
I figured if I shot a hundred rounds or so without letting things get too built up it would smooth out the edges on the lands and help me with my shooting form and breathing. And I just like the smell of gunpowder. If I have a 3 or 4 inch group at 200 yards it should be good enough for a deer. I certainly won't go beyond 200 yards the way I am shooting right now.
 
If 1 - 2" is acceptable then there is no need for break in, I can't stand my rifle shouting more then 1/2 MOA, I do accept 2.5" at 500 yards :D
 
^^^ :rolleyes:

Chain, there are a couple of factors at work here. One, your rifle may not like that ammo. Two, your scope may not be as precise as you would like. Three, while Howas are vastly underrated, sometimes a rough trigger may make getting those small groups tough.

For refining your technique, dry fire the rifle. Most folks don't actually hunt from a bench, so the more you practice position shooting and manipulating the rifle, the better you'll get. One thing to get those groups to tighten up is to focus on the cross hairs when you press the trigger. An Appleseed clinic can help bunches. :)
 
Chain, what kind of ammo are you shooting again, I'm more interested in how heavy are the bullets you are using? because you might shooting something that can't be stabilized in you barrel because of the slow twist...
 
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right, sorry missed that part 150 core lokts it should be fine with 1:12 twist Howa puts on their 308's then another question: are you shouting from the bench rest bags, bipods etc?
and yes try federal ammo like powershock 150 - 165 grains, if you can get you hand on 168 grains match ammo try them, even PPU 168 grain is capable to produce tight groups, and don't overheat your barrel. Still make sure it free-floated, because this is how I think howa's should be... take a dollar bill and slide under the barrel it should pass without interaction with the stock.
 
After looking at the barrel break in procedures posted on Legacy I hope I didn't screw up my new rifle. I shot a total of 9 rounds the day I went to the range. I was loading one at a time for the first 4 and walking back and forth to the 100 yard target to see where it hit. Then I loaded 3 and slowly shot them. Then i loaded 2 more and shot them. In terms of a hunting rifle is the break in procedure needed less than if it were a target rifle? Did I just ruin my new rifle?
Barrel break-in is a controversial subject. There are experts who believe it results in greater accuracy and there experts who don't. If proper barrel break-in is indeed advantageous, it will be practically unnoticeable in a hunting rifle. Did you ruin your new rifle? No! I definitely wouldn't worry about it. But if it makes you feel better, just clean all the copper out and continue shooting, following the break-in procedure.
 
I checked the barrel when I took delivery of the rifle. Definitely free floated all the way. I am shooting with the rifle fore end rested on sand bags. 150 Grain Core-Lokts until I shoot my last ten. I cannot stop myself from moving in the rhythmic pattern so I have been taking a few deep breaths and firing on the exhale. It has been pretty windy out here as of late. The wind today was coming from the rear and down on the shooting range. I was shooting an inch or two low today compared to yesterday. Certainly not trying to be a precision bench shooter but I would like my 3 shots to be under 2" at 100 and under 3" or so at 200. Even a little larger and I will still go through the lungs of a deer.
 
Chains, well there are many factors which can cause fliers you described, even change in barometric pressure can make bullet to destabilize. since your riffle is meant for hunting, and I assume on local white tails, most of the shots are made within 100 yard zone, and for 308 2" - 3" is irrelevant. Practice at the range will improve you trigger skills, by the way you trigger might need some adjustments, to the lighter pull. You might start to consider reloading, it will payoff in the long run, even for 308 ammo is not cheap and custom ammo can in fact solve your flier problem, right selection of brass, bullets, powder, seating depth can improve accuracy, there are many choices...
 
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