mfree
Member
...and it just *had* to be my overengineered Walther P22 
Why did I detail strip it? Because Walther apparently lubes their pistols by dunking them in 20W50 equivalent mineral oil, wiping off the outside, then boxing and shipping. Add to that sloppy mess of lube, something like 800 rounds of .22lr worth of carbon and crud, which was also caking in the bolt face/block. That's *all* gone now, replaced with the finest sheen of pure mineral oil, and all springs intact.
What drove me to this was realizing that the safety bar felt like it had sand in it, and so did the sear.... something funky gunky at work. I cleaned that out, and did some of the improvements noted on rimfirecentral... mostly cleaning flash and sharp edges off stamped parts, fixing little inaccuracies in molded bits, and general smoothing and cleaning up. It definitely feels better. Oh, and I removed the lawyer lock.... very important on these guns as if they lock and the slide is racked, it's a trip to S&W for repairs.
As for it throwing brass everywhere, I think I see what's happening... it's undersized rounds. The extractor has enough fredom of motion that if a round is undersized in case diameter (like my test rounds, which have been pounded over and over and over...) when the extractor pulls the case out of the chamber it can push it over to the left, at which point the ejector is pushing on the middle of the round, and that round then heads straight for your scalp/forehead region. I'll have to look at it some more.... the ejector is kind of a wimpy design, and I did the recommended tuneup of cleaning it's face and angling it a tiny bit so the top of the ejector face contacts the round first (so the flip is down and sideways instead of up). Anyways, time for another range trip to see if this all did anything. Manually cycling can't tell you everything...
So, important notes here:
1. Never field strip anything on the narrow, not well lit ledge of your computer desk
2. Same goes for stripping anything over multicolored shag carpet
3. Try to have the instructions/diagram *first*.... it'll save you a lot of apprehension trying to find where that little staple-shaped spring goes, just to hunt down the diagram online and find out that it doesn't go anywhere.... and then trying to figure out how the hell half a box staple got into your weapon.
Why did I detail strip it? Because Walther apparently lubes their pistols by dunking them in 20W50 equivalent mineral oil, wiping off the outside, then boxing and shipping. Add to that sloppy mess of lube, something like 800 rounds of .22lr worth of carbon and crud, which was also caking in the bolt face/block. That's *all* gone now, replaced with the finest sheen of pure mineral oil, and all springs intact.
What drove me to this was realizing that the safety bar felt like it had sand in it, and so did the sear.... something funky gunky at work. I cleaned that out, and did some of the improvements noted on rimfirecentral... mostly cleaning flash and sharp edges off stamped parts, fixing little inaccuracies in molded bits, and general smoothing and cleaning up. It definitely feels better. Oh, and I removed the lawyer lock.... very important on these guns as if they lock and the slide is racked, it's a trip to S&W for repairs.
As for it throwing brass everywhere, I think I see what's happening... it's undersized rounds. The extractor has enough fredom of motion that if a round is undersized in case diameter (like my test rounds, which have been pounded over and over and over...) when the extractor pulls the case out of the chamber it can push it over to the left, at which point the ejector is pushing on the middle of the round, and that round then heads straight for your scalp/forehead region. I'll have to look at it some more.... the ejector is kind of a wimpy design, and I did the recommended tuneup of cleaning it's face and angling it a tiny bit so the top of the ejector face contacts the round first (so the flip is down and sideways instead of up). Anyways, time for another range trip to see if this all did anything. Manually cycling can't tell you everything...
So, important notes here:
1. Never field strip anything on the narrow, not well lit ledge of your computer desk
2. Same goes for stripping anything over multicolored shag carpet
3. Try to have the instructions/diagram *first*.... it'll save you a lot of apprehension trying to find where that little staple-shaped spring goes, just to hunt down the diagram online and find out that it doesn't go anywhere.... and then trying to figure out how the hell half a box staple got into your weapon.