Flash hole uniformer

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Fire_Moose

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How much of a bevel should I be making around the flash hole?

Sent from my CZ85 Combat
 
Or don't even bother.

I have never found a good need for it in 50+ years of reloading for just about everything.

rc
 
I do this; I don't know if it makes any difference though! I have used the RCBS tool and the collars for specific calibers. Eventually, the tip on the tool broke off and was no longer usable. Since I could not wait for a new one, I found a drill bit the same size, put the collar on it and was all set. I put the bit in the drill, hold the brass over the bit with the flash hole centered against the tip, and give the trigger a quck squeeze and off go the burrs. I don't even want the new tool now! But, you do need the collars.
 
Or don't even bother.

I have never found a good need for it in 50+ years of reloading for just about everything.

rc

I just did.a couple before work today. Couldn't believe how much crap was coming out of them

Sent from my CZ85 Combat
 
I've never used one either. But I would imagine that some mil brass might have issues, don't really know though. I do have an RCBS primer pocket something or another, that I use to knock carbon out with. It has a side for LP, and one for SP.
GS
 
Flash holes, I have a flash hole gage and two pressure test gages. I find more advantage to having flash holes that are the same size and when determining the first sign of pressure, I believe it starts with the diameter of the flash hole.

I have flash hole de-burring tools, I keep them in the JIC drawer, JIC for 'just in casel' I need something in the drawer I know where it's located.

I have never found a case with a jagged hole.

F. Guffey
 
I have never found a case with a jagged hole.

It's not about a jagged hole. Most flashholes are created by punching the hole thru the bottom of the primer pocket. While this makes a round hole, it also leaves pieces of brass bent inside the case body. A couple of twists with a flashhole uniformer removes them. It's one of those things that doesn't really have to be done, but is considered part of match prepping brass. BTW, Lapua drills their flashholes and it is not necessary to do this with their superb brass.

Don
 
I don't use it often. But occasionally I find a dramatically undersized flash hole or one with burrs. In those cases the uniformer is handy.
 
I just knock off the rough edges with the Lyman tool. I have compared several loading of identical powder/bullet/primer/case with the exception of deburring the primer hole in half and leaving the others as-purchased. I don't have my notes with me, but there was a noticeable difference in the SD in the velocity of the deburred cases as opposed to the untouched ones. It wasn't massive and wasn't reflected in the groups, but I blame that more on the rifle and shooter than the loads.

Matt

ETA: None of my Lapua 7.62x54R has any burr at all.
 
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I use the lyman unit described above, and attach it to my trim mate.

I put a noticeable bevel in magnum pistol brass, and all rifle.

On the pieces I've bisected, it ends up being about a 40 degree angle about 0.14" across.

It looks rather like a nozzle, and has helped with a lot of the slower burning powders in pistol to complete the burn when using less than maximum charges.

My best evidence of this is that using the same bullet weight and powder charge of 20grs H-110 and a magnum primer, I still got unburned powder granules in 44 mag in cases without the bevel.

On the rounds with brass using beveled primer holes, I noticed no unburned powder.

This held true using hs-6 in 44 mag as well.

I have no idea why this happens, but it does. I've noticed no significant difference when using full power loads. My only theory is that instead of shooting the flame through the center of the powder mass, it projects it as a cone around the sides as well as right into the base of the powder mass. I cant get a camera in a cartridge, so I can't verify... but its a good a theory as any, and in the applications where it matters- it works.

YMMV.
 
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