Forest Service Knife

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JohnnyCal55

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This summer I'm hopefully going to be working for the forest service as a firefighter or trail crew member. I'm looking for a high quality fixed blade knife that I will carry everyday for general tasks that the job calls for. Any suggestions for a knife for a forest service employee?
 
Having worked for the Forest Service many years, I would highly recommend the Randall Cattleman's knife. It is a small fixed blade that comes in a pouch sheath for easy access. It is a little expensive and sometime hard to come by but would be your constant companion without having to unfold a folder. I would also recommend the Ruana Knife Works "Smokejumper" knife as it is a nice size as well. Just know that the Smokejumper doesn't come with the sheath shown in the picture as you must pay extra for the flap sheath.
 

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This is WAY cool

I've used SOG blades for years.

http://sogknives.com/store/FX-21.html :cool:

The SEAL Revolver comes standard with a new look in blade shape that is not only functional, but distinctive. A survival saw serves as a backup in the handle. The blade features a forward thumb rest for increased dexterity and downward pressure. A glass-reinforced Nylon handle hides the stainless steel liners which ensure strength and quality. And as always, SOG edges are razor sharp.

Whether you're camping or crusading, why not pack twice the capability with the SEAL Revolver? It just might transform your idea of what a knife should be.
 
Congrats, sounds like a sweet gig.

+ 1 on the ESEE series.

Only other thought/recommendation would be to get a good, heavy duty multi tool to have in addition to the FB. Something like the Wave/Surge etc.

Not sure what else they'll issue you but a good flashlight will likely come in handy... i'm a huge fan of the Surefire E1B for EDC but a bigger torch like the A2 or something might be more appropriate. Something with dual outputs to save battery is a nice thought.
 
Most of what you are seeing involve fixed blades that are too large for carrying when fighting forest fires. You want a small 3-4" max blade. You want an easy to get "in and out" sheath, no snaps if possible. And no folders; I have seen too many try and get their folder out and usable drop or loose it trying to open. Trust me on this, a small fixed blade with a pouch type sheath is what you want.

Pap
 
+1 on the 3-4" fixed blade. There are tons of options in the category from $20-ish Moras which are pretty good and also won't make you cry if/when you lose one up to custom tactical or Bushcrafting blades that will run you upwards of ten times what a Mora goes for.

So budget becomes a big question.
 
Thanks for all of the informative replys everyone! A fixed 3-4 inch blade sounds like the ideal knife now. What can be said about the locking "kydex" or polymer sheaths that are being produced now? It seems like a reliable way to lock in the knife with fast and easy access.
 
Based on what I've seen, if you are looking for a really good 3"-4" fixed blade, I'd go with the Becker BK11, and spend the extra $30 on a good set of micarta scales, or just wrap the tang in paracord for very cheap and very effective.

It's an absurdly good knife for the price. Consider the likelihood of losing it, and replacement costs.
 
Ontario's SP46 would be effective & relatively less painful if lost. Nice belly for slicing; not sure how much of a stabbing blade you'd need.

For a multitool; SOG pow-R-plier
 
Think about whether you want to be carrying a thermoplastic sheath in a line fire situation.
 
comfortable handle, short blade

I'd take my airforce survival knife because i already own it and it has a lot of miles on it, but I just picked up the new navy survival knife with the plastic handle (ontario spec plus 24). these both have 5 inch blades which is pushing the limit for everyday general purpose carry.

If i didn't have these I would probably go to the local big Box store and see what Buck is selling lately.
 
Remember you will likely be using this with heavy gloves on. When you go to pick your knife out try it both bare handed and with gloves. Check to see how easy it will be to draw and resheath while wearing them. Is the handle large enough with the gloves on.
 
The suggestion on a nylon sheath being subjected to the heat of a fire line is true and it could melt on you. A leather sheath would be the best bet. The problem with the puko style fixed blade is that therre is no hilt and I've seen guys cut their hands when it slips past the handle. You need a hilt or finger grips minimum. You'll also notice that my 2 knife suggestions have a wrist thong as well as it comes in handy to both pull the knife out of the sheath and also when wrapped around your wrist is more difficult to drop when using it. Been there done this for many years.
 
Firefighting

Hmm. A knife to be used in an outdoor context for general purpose stuff, but also to be available for use in extreme temperatures and around open flames.

Interesting. Never considered that requirement.

Well, knowing what fire will do to plastics, and having had a knife or two of my own do very poorly when exposed to temps above 350 degrees, I can recommend against anything with a plastic sheath or plastic (or rubber) handle.

I would think that bone or horn/antler material would do better, with bone to be preferred, or a well treated grade of wood. Wood will char on contact with flame or embers, but it won't melt. I have a kitchen knife that I still use, even though it has a char mark on its wooden handle from an encounter several years ago.

Also, I would think that a full-tang construction would be desirable. It's more robust and easier to fix -- even temporarily -- after handle damage.

So, I'm thinking something in a three-to-four inch blade, full tang, wood or bone handle, with a leather sheath. Oh, and either a guard or handle shape designed to keep fingers off the blade, given that you'll likely be wearing gloves when things get stupid, and your grip could be compromised.

Well, then, let me go see what I can find . . . be right back . . .


Oh, and while I'm doing that, what's your price ceiling?

You said "high quality," and I'm guessing the description I laid out above will lead me to a knife in the $100 to $200 range.

 
Found Some

I know that it will come as a great shock to the regulars here to find that I have some Scandinavian knives to recommend.

I'm going to begin by simply posting links to the pages and pictures concerned. Later, I'll stroll back by and post pics and descriptions as time permits.

Therefore, expect this post to change a couple of times as the day wears on.

EKA pieces: EKA Catalog Page

The EKA W11 outdoor knife:
Nearly 4 1/2 inch blade.
Full tang with underside
enclosed in wood handle.
W11 with pouch sheath
w11.jpg

Handle detail showing
enclosed underside and
exposed top of tang.
W11 handle detail here
w11-handle.jpg

The EKA H8 outdoor knife:
Has 3 1/8 inch blade.
Full tang with underside
enclosed in wood handle.
H8 with pouch sheath
(See above for handle detail.)
h8.jpg

The EKA A-10 "All Around" outdoor knife:
Has 4 inch blade.
Full tang with underside
enclosed in wood handle.
A-10 with sheath
(I really like this knife,
but I must confess I don't
like that sheath for your
application.)
a10.jpg

The EKA JoF-7 "Hunting and Fishing" outdoor knife:
Has 2 /34 inch blade,
w/~3 inches of cutting edge.
Full tang with underside
enclosed in wood handle.
JoF-7 with sheath
The handle mount is like
the W11 and H8 above
jof7.jpg
JoF-7 handle detail
jof7-handle.jpg


Mora pieces: Swedish/Mora Catalog Page

The Mora Lapp-90 outdoor knife:
Has 3 1/2 inch blade.
Full tang, wood handle,
with brass bolsters.
http://www.ragweedforge.com/lapp-90.jpg
The more I look at this piece,
the more I appreciate that it
is bigger and heavier than
it looks. I guess I need to
get one for myself.
lapp-90.jpg



Just the blades (Mora), for someone who wants to take a stab at a custom handle Blade Catalog Page

Scandi blades from Frosts of Mora:
Assorted blades,
suitable for a wide range
of applications.
[url="http://www.ragweedforge.com/frosts-blades-stainless.jpg]Frosts 12c27 stainless blades[/url]
(You know, I really need
add a knife project to
my [large] list of stuff
I hope to do.)
frosts-blades-stainless.jpg



As expected, these knives are up in the hundred-ish price range. The bare blades are in the $35 - $40 range.

 
Micarta, and the variants of it, won't melt, so that handle material can be added to the list.

ESEE 3 or 4

Similar TOPS knives

Becker is good too

If you're a craftsman, the custom build from the Mora blades is a cool idea. Be sure to put a lanyard hole in the tail end of the grip so you can put a single lanyard on it for easier extraction from the sheath. Avoid a loop to keep your knife from being snatched from the sheath by brush.

Lots of other options out there.

Stick with a solid full tang 3-4" fixed blade and carry a multitool that can be worked with while wearing gloves.
 
Generally the Nomex fire shirt is worn outside and thus the loop of the wrist thong isn't a big thing but the heat issue still is there. A nylon wrist thong wouldn't be a good idea and there is the leather latago preferred. So, we have a 3-4" fixed blade with a bone or horn handle, a leather wrist thong and a leather pouch sheath. IMHO the Randall Cattleman's is the high end and the Ruana Knife Works Smokejumper is in the mid range for pricing. One thing about the Randall and Ruana, 20 years from now you'll still get more than you paid for it, regardless of which one you pick.
 
From what I see most folks use a good quality folder. It's bad enough to worry about a sharp tool or chainsaw on steep ground where falls are common to worry about falling on a fixed blade knife. The old orange handle flight switch blades they used to issue where decent but not PC and I have not seen any of the things for years.
 
I will also recommend the ESEE series, but would go with an ESEE-5 because the MOLLE back sheath will have a snap in addition to velcro, holding the knife in the sheath.
 
I have yet to get the hang of posting pictures, sorry. :(


Mod Edit:

Here's an example of posting an image (just hit "edit" and look at the markup)
GameWarden-200812284273.img

(Just wrap [noparse]
[/noparse] tags around the image link.)​

 
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