G20 conversion barrel- multiple failures to feed
- Thread starter gofastman
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Carne Frio
Member
Send it back.
Roughneck08
Member
Wait for a better response, but from what I've heard you also need a new extractor possibly for the .40??
DFW1911
Member
Did the conversion kit come with new springs as well? If the gun is set up to handle 10mm recoil, does the .40 have enough "power" to fully cycle the gun with the 10mm springs in place?
I'd call LWD and ask them, or just wait a few and someone on the forum will probably know.
Take care,
DFW1911
I'd call LWD and ask them, or just wait a few and someone on the forum will probably know.
Take care,
DFW1911
I think the G22 (.40) and the G20 (10mm) both have a 17lb recoil spring, but I believe the G20 has a heavier slide. I was under the impression this didn't make that big of a difference to worry about and the .40 barrel should work in an otherwise stock gun.
Perhaps a ss guide rod and a 15lb (or 13lb???) spring is in order.
Perhaps a ss guide rod and a 15lb (or 13lb???) spring is in order.
DFW1911
Member
You may be onto something with the slide, but I, too, am under the impression it was a "drop in" conversion, if such a thing exists.
Which magazines are you using? Definitely something to look at before we start adding parts that may be unnecessary.
Which magazines are you using? Definitely something to look at before we start adding parts that may be unnecessary.
Not that I'm an expert on this by any means, but .40 S&W should have plenty of "power" (recoil) to fully cycle the action, at least judging from 10mm loads such as the following:
http://www.federalpremium.com/products/details/handgun.aspx?id=177
The factory-loaded .40 S&W JHP that I use gets similar or better performance than that!
No .40 and 10mm are the exact same diameter. The extractor works in exactly the same fashion for both. .40 is just slightly shorter, so the chamber ends further back. Resulting in the extractor working with a portion of the brass that is identical in both calibers.
Other calibers can benefit from a different extractor because the round is no longer the same diameter so the angle the extractor engages at changes.
Some of the FBI light loads are within .40 S&W specs. However the range they are designed to operate within can be slightly different. A powerful .40S&W loading will work well with a 10mm recoil spring designed for light and medium 10mm loads.
But light .40S&W target loads may be just a bit too soft to cycle the firearm.
I would go with a lighter recoil spring.
A more immediate solution would be to purchase some of the more powerful .40S&W loadings rather than target loads and see if they cycle better.
If more powerful .40S&W loads work well that would also let you know a lighter recoil spring would probably cycle all .40S&W loads well.
The other typical issue to watch out for is a limp wrist. You have to hold it firmly or a failure to cycle is typical. The recoil impulse of the .40 is less and shorter, so a limp wrist would be more noticed even if you got away with it in 10mm auto.
If that does not fix the issue then you would want to focus on the barrel.
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Perhaps you can explain in detail "failure to feed".
LWD barrels lock up tighter than OEM and that might be your problem. I had a problem where the slide lacked ~1/16-3/32" from full lock up and it took only thumb pressure to get full lock up. I stoned/polished the breech face to make sure the face was smooth and not causing additional friction then gradually removed the sharp edge on forward barrel lug. After a little work the slide began to closed properly. You might want to slowly close the slide and watch the caming action to see if there is any binding.
My 10-40 LWD barrel now works fine and I've always used the stock G20 recoil spring so the spring was never an issue.
LWD barrels lock up tighter than OEM and that might be your problem. I had a problem where the slide lacked ~1/16-3/32" from full lock up and it took only thumb pressure to get full lock up. I stoned/polished the breech face to make sure the face was smooth and not causing additional friction then gradually removed the sharp edge on forward barrel lug. After a little work the slide began to closed properly. You might want to slowly close the slide and watch the caming action to see if there is any binding.
My 10-40 LWD barrel now works fine and I've always used the stock G20 recoil spring so the spring was never an issue.
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Please be gentle!
OK, so I did something stupid, and it turns out the FTF problems were my fault and not the barrels.
I forgot to oil it before use!
I wiped oil on the outside and on the bottom lug, now it works 98%
I had 2 FTF with the same Federal loads I had all the problems with before, and none with Winchester white box loads.
I am REALLY surprised that oil could make that big of a difference though, I have run the Glock barrel dry and never had an issue.
Oh well, live and learn.
OK, so I did something stupid, and it turns out the FTF problems were my fault and not the barrels.I forgot to oil it before use!
I wiped oil on the outside and on the bottom lug, now it works 98%
I had 2 FTF with the same Federal loads I had all the problems with before, and none with Winchester white box loads.
I am REALLY surprised that oil could make that big of a difference though, I have run the Glock barrel dry and never had an issue.
Oh well, live and learn.
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DFW1911
Member
Wow. I, too, have run dry Glocks, but I'm glad you found the solution and it was so simple.
Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the update.
I had the same issue. I mic'd out the outside dimensions of the chamber area and found it to be about four thousands larger than the stock barrel. I took a wetstone and removed equal amounts of material from both sides. After that no problem. I didnt change any springs either. YMMV
Hmmm...while proper lubrication is highly advisable for maximum reliability and minimal wear, Glocks should be able to function reasonably well when dry. If you're not going to depend on the weapon for self-defense in this configuration (i.e. with the conversion barrel installed) and are satisfied with the results you're getting now, then I guess that's OK, but something still seems wrong to me.
Zak Smith
Member
I have a KKF .40-10mm barrel and it works flawlessly.
Hm, Glocks are generally able to run dry. And given that all the full size Glocks use the same weight spring, I doubt it's a spring issue.
But if lubing the barrel is enough to make it work, you now know how to make it work. I would check to make sure the gun's 100% with 10mm, though, so you know what to load for home defense and/or CCW.
But if lubing the barrel is enough to make it work, you now know how to make it work. I would check to make sure the gun's 100% with 10mm, though, so you know what to load for home defense and/or CCW.
But the slide is heavier on some models. So there is still more for recoil to overcome on a G20 than a G22.
Yeah I thought about saying something similar, but telling someone whose handyman skills you don't know to make irreversible changes to something they may opt to send back is not my first suggestion.
If you can tell where any extra resistance is then you may locate the area could use some extra polishing.
The tolerances are tighter, and the case support is greater, with a feed angle that is slightly different (stock barrels have less support because the ramp helps in reliable feeding, leading the the Glock smile on brass). This means that any additional problems make it much easier to have a failure to feed.
The oil working is not a real solution. That is just overcoming the resistance that shouldn't be there. Excessive oil can over time also render a primer inoperable. So relying on oil for a defensive gun left with one in the chamber could leave you realizing the one in the chamber no longer works at a bad moment.
However just using the gun oiled for awhile or even manually cycling the action could remove enough excess metal at any high friction points that it will begin to function smoothly even without oil. Of course manually removing any excess metal from the chamber or barrel will protect the tenifer coating and keep the slide dimensions intact.
I thought I'd update this.
The problem got worse and worse, even when dripping with oil the gun wouldn't chamber more than half the rounds, so I sent it back.
Their gunsmith adjusted something on the feed ramp, as well as something else I cant recall right now, anyway, it works perfect!
150 hiccup-free rounds, even when the gun was intentionally limpwristed, I am very happy with this product and Lone Wolf's service.
FWIW, whatever he/she did to the barrel must be very subtle, I cant tell that anything was changed by looking at it with the naked eye.
The problem got worse and worse, even when dripping with oil the gun wouldn't chamber more than half the rounds, so I sent it back.
Their gunsmith adjusted something on the feed ramp, as well as something else I cant recall right now, anyway, it works perfect!
150 hiccup-free rounds, even when the gun was intentionally limpwristed, I am very happy with this product and Lone Wolf's service.
FWIW, whatever he/she did to the barrel must be very subtle, I cant tell that anything was changed by looking at it with the naked eye.
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