Garand Gear Tung Oil- Questions/Feedback

[igotta40]

I have a CMP M1 with a new Boyd's walnut stock. The stain it came with has been sanded off. I have further smoothed it down with 400 then 800 sandpaper, then rinsed it and blew it clean/dry with compressed air. I'm ready now to apply the coatings.

I'm asking has anyone used their tung oil and how well did it work?

 

[wojownik]

Use sparingly. Apply a very thin coat, go over with the finishing pad, let dry 2 days or so, repeat a half dozen times. I don't like the glossy look on military stocks.

I tried the tung oil on a Boyd's stock, which worked fine, but I much prefer boiled linseed oil for US milsurp stocks. Even more work hand rubbing BLO, but the results are worth it IMHO.

For a Garand, you might consider Chestnut Ridge stain before applying the tung oil finish. I refinished a Boyd's stock after having done much the same that you did - the Boyd's factory stain was not working for me - but the stock came out much lighter with just a Tung oil finish than what I wanted (compared to the reddish brown hue of the military stocks).

BLO will give stocks that reddish brown hue over time (an original 1903 stock I refinished a few years ago has darkened nicely). Tung oil won't give you that benefit, so if you're looking for that deeper color you may need to look at staining first. Most tung oil is really only a small part actual tung oil (on the other hand, pure tung oil takes forever and a day to dry).

 

[GBExpat]

Most tung oil is really only a small part actual tung oil (on the other hand, pure tung oil takes forever and a day to dry).

Most (all?) products named Tung Oil Finish contain, at most, a tiny bit of actual Tung Oil but usually (always?) none at all (otherwise their marketing department would not be able to resist a bold notation on the front of the label like, CONTAINS REAL TUNG OIL!).

Furniture products called Tung Oil Finish are named that because the MFR is claiming that the finish they produce looks like a finish created with real Tung Oil, not because they contain any actual Tung Oil ... the finishes created are also more resistant due to the fact that the products are actually varnishes.

I have finished many stocks with pure Tung Oil and found them to cure not much more slowly than those that I finished with BLO. I apply them both mixed ~2:1/~3:1 oil:loMS.

For me, both BLO and Tung Oil applications go on at a rate of one per day. Two keys to this are leaving the stocks in front of a fan and the location must be low RH.

 

[morcey2]

For the first coat or two, cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits. It really doesn't take much to cover a stock. A couple of drops on your fingertip, put it on the stock, and rub until it starts to get warm, then move to the next section. Once you're done, let it sit for about 30 minutes. Take a lint-free cloth and wipe off any that wasn't absorbed and let it cure for a day or two. Then repeat. The mineral spirits help it absorb deeper into the wood. Do the same thing with the later coats, but don't cut the oil at all.

That's for real tung oil, not tung-oil-finish.

Matt

 

[Orlando]

The Tung Oil finsihes have varnishes added and will have a shiney finish.
I beleive Garand Gears is 100% Tung Oil

 

[carbine85]

No need to worry about the glossy finish. You can use 000 or 0000 steel wool and knock the gloss down to what you like. Use it in between each coat.
A good Tung oil will dry faster than the BLO but the BLO is the correct finish.

 

[Sunray]

"...the BLO is the correct finish..." So is tung oil.
Pure tung oil(cost in Home Depot et al for Minwax's Pure Tung oil is the same as Garand Gear. Likely comes from them anyway.) gives a hard, waterproof, shiney(actually more of a sheen) finish when rubbed in correctly. No cutting required. And it really does not take a lot. That $18 can will go a very long way.
It gets applied with a clean, lint free, cloth in thin coats, over several days with 24 hour's drying time between coats. Use a new cloth every day. Any stain must be applied first as tung oil soaks into the wood to about 1/4" and keeps everything else out.

 

[morcey2]

"...the BLO is the correct finish..." So is tung oil.
Pure tung oil(cost in Home Depot et al for Minwax's Pure Tung oil is the same as Garand Gear. Likely comes from them anyway.) gives a hard, waterproof, shiney(actually more of a sheen) finish when rubbed in correctly. No cutting required. And it really does not take a lot. That $18 can will go a very long way.
It gets applied with a clean, lint free, cloth in thin coats, over several days with 24 hour's drying time between coats. Use a new cloth every day. Any stain must be applied first as tung oil soaks into the wood to about 1/4" and keeps everything else out.

Minwax doesn't make a pure tung oil, just tung oil finish which is just a distant, disowned relative of tung oil that is actually a wiping varnish. Any painting specialty shop should have tung oil. I got mine at Kwal Howell (I think that's how it's spelled), but sherwin williams or anywhere like that should have it in stock.

Matt

 

[brickeyee]

I have further smoothed it down with 400 then 800 sandpaper

Way to fine.
You have likely burnished the surface and will have problems getting a finish to adhere well.

BLO is a horrible finish.
Without additional drying agents (AKA 'Japan drier') added it takes so long it often ends up black from surface dirt before it fully cures.

Straight real tung oil is not very glossy and does not build well.
Partially polymerized tung oil (it is actually cooked) can be as glossy as you want or easily worked back to satin (#0000 steel wool works perfectly)

 

[Orlando]

If you are having issues with BLO drying then you are not applying it properly
BLO will dry enough overnight to apply another coat. I have refinished many,many dozens of stocks with BLO and never had any issue you describe


On my stocks I want to have a smooth finish I always wet sand with 400 grit paper and BLO. The last coat I use 600 grit. Although very fine it creates a slurry or dust and BLO and seals the pores. Again I have done this many times with no issues you describe

If you want a very water resistant somewhat shiney finish I wet sand with Teak Oil. It comes out with a very silky smooth satin finish.


Tung Oil doesnt not have a shiney finish but is very similar to BLO
Tung Oil finish is shiney and containes varnishes

 

[GBExpat]

BLO is a horrible finish.
Without additional drying agents (AKA 'Japan drier') added it takes so long it often ends up black from surface dirt before it fully cures.

If this is what you experienced, you did something(s) wrong.

 

[brickeyee]

BLO is the most primitive of finishes and often results in black furniture over many years.
Without any added drying agents it takes many many years to actually oxidize.

The 'Boiling' if the linseed oil is actually air injection in a heated tank in an temperate to at least start the cuing process.

Tung oil cures better, but by partially polymerizing it (similar to the 'boiling' process) you end up with a much better finish.

Raw linseed oil is even worse.
I build repro furniture from a number of periods and learned to not use BLO as more than a way to 'pop' grain long ago.
If you want a really good stock finish get some Behlen Gloss Rockhard Table Top Urethane Varnish.
It makes a finish nearly as tough as even more modern UV curing varnish.

 

[igotta40]

[I]"BLO is the most primitive of finishes and often results in black furniture over many years.
Without any added drying agents it takes many many years to actually oxidize.

The 'Boiling' if the linseed oil is actually air injection in a heated tank in an temperate to at least start the cuing process.

Tung oil cures better, but by partially polymerizing it (similar to the 'boiling' process) you end up with a much better finish.

Raw linseed oil is even worse.
I build repro furniture from a number of periods and learned to not use BLO as more than a way to 'pop' grain long ago.
If you want a really good stock finish get some Behlen Gloss Rockhard Table Top Urethane Varnish.
It makes a finish nearly as tough as even more modern UV curing varnish." [/I]

I appreciate the time and effort involved in your response, but quite honestly that has little or nothing to do with my question.

Perhaps you're debating with the other members here.

I am in no way interested in applying urethane varnish to my M1 Garand rifle, but thanks anyway.

 

[igotta40]

Based on input from Brickeyee and the instructions in the Garand Gear Tung Oil kit I went back and sanded with 600 grit paper. Then water rinsed and blew down with compressed air. Next I cleaned the walnut with enclosed citrus oil (Zep Big Orange).

The second step is to use the 50/50 mix of tung oil & citrus oil. The final step is the pure tung oil application.

I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Garand Gear tung oil kit and whether pleased with the results, and/or any lessons learned from using it.

 

[Orlando]

I wouldnot cut the Tung oil with Citrus Oil!

 

[Green_Giant]

I have done 2 CMP Garands with real Tung Oil. The first one I just put several coats of 50/50 tung oil / mineral spirits followed by several coats of hand rubbed tung oil. It looks good but still has a bit of the "CMP Orange" tint to it. The second one, I took some of the orangeish stain off w/ acetone first and then did the tung oil bit. It came out a beautiful brown w/ just a hint of the red. Time and Patience are your friends. I had both rifles apart for the better part of a month each for the rub...wait...rub...wait cycle. Did the pure tung oil rubs while watching TV w/ the Missus!

 

[GBExpat]

Heck, I did not originally recognize "Garand Gear" as a brand until after my first post in this thread ... I had never heard of it/them.

Sorry, igotta40, I have never used this product, only cans of pure Tung Oil and/or BLO and some low-odor Mineral Spirits to thin them (as I mentioned in Post#3). I recall reading over the years that some folks prefer to use Turpentine rather than MS.

If I were going to experiment with that TO/CO mixture, I would first test it on a covered area, like the barrel channel ... just to make sure that the result was satisfactory before applying it to the whole stock, y'know?

Enjoy! ... and be aware that stock refinishing/refreshing can be habit-forming.

 

[Kernel]

I bought a can of Old Masters tung oil 18 years ago. At the time, it was the only place I could find pure tung oil. Have used it on many milsurps over the the years. Still have some, but it's getting thicker with age. There may be more options today, but I can say Old Masters works well.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ng/wood-finishes/pure-tung-oil-prod25793.aspx

 

[morcey2]

I did a little looking around on this and found some information regarding citrus oil and I believe this is what Garand Gear is talking about:

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html

It's a citrus-based replacement for mineral spirits and paint thinner. I've heard lots of good things about Real Milk Paint Co.'s products. I know quite a few people who have used their tung oil on stocks with excellent results. Also, from their tung oil product page:

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is an all-natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.

I'm betting what GG is calling "citrus oil" is citrus solvent. If this is the case, I think you're good to go. If the instructions call for a single coat of the 50/50 tung oil, you may need to play that one by ear. Most of the stocks I've done (mostly with BLO) have needed two coats of the cut oil.

Another warning: If you're allergic to nuts, you may have a reaction to tung oil, even after it has cured.

All that said, I think you're set. Just be patient and don't rush it.

Matt

 

[GBExpat]

It's a citrus-based replacement for mineral spirits and paint thinner.

Now that makes sense ... and such a solvent should work fine as a stand-in for the other mentioned solvents ...

... and it probably smells great, too.

Whenever I get a new milsurp longgun acquisition and need to clean it in order to assess the condition/needs of the stock, I whip out the spray bottle of "orange" degreaser that I buy at the grocery store.

Someone watching my go thru my paces once asked me if there were some technical reason for me selecting that particular produce ... I told them, "There are two reasons; it is a degreaser ... and it smells really good".

 

[igotta40]

I've been following the enclosed instructions to the letter so far with no issues.

1. Sanding, smoothing, washing, drying, cleaning out the grain.

2. Citrus oil degrease.

3. 50/50 citrus oil/ tung oil mix for four coats, wiping, waiting etc. One coat / 24 hours. So far so good. The stock isn't sticky, it just feels slightly oily.

4. Just did the first of two coats of pure tung oil tonight. One more treatment tomorrow, then I'll keep it in the garage for a week. Instructions say let it cure 4 days or so in a warm place.

Luckily the Houston humidity just lifted so the garage should be hot and dry, perfect conditions to cure the tung oil.

I'll post pictures and my opinions.

 

[morcey2]

Now we know that you're lying.




The humidity never lifts in Houston.

If you have any doubt as to whether it's curing or not, there's no harm in waiting a couple of days between coats....other than having the humidity to come back to Houston. It really shouldn't be feeling oily at all. (I spent a month in Houston for 3 days. I was miserable. I like the desert. )