Got My First M&P Auto

[bullbarrel]

Nice gun but trouble taking it down. Wouldn't have been but the instructions are off putting. Had me looking for a frame tool. I was to go down into the mag well and the diagram showed a bizarre item sticking off the butt. I called the dealer and he walked me through it, easy actually had it not been for Smith & Wesson. I am familiar with disassembly of the MKII, MKIII, and 1911s. The gun compares badly with my Sigma but then I am used to that. The slide is not staying back on the last round at present. It is 9mm, no thumb safety, and may become my carry weapon.

 

[Boanerges57]

I just got an m&p .40.
took it out of the box, put a few drops of lube here and there and proceeded to go through my annual firearms recert with it. flawless.
It has performed perfectly for me.
If the slide is not staying back it would either indicate it is not going all the way back under recoil (limp wristing) or the mag spring tension is weak (not too likely with a new mag).
put an empty magazine in it and pull the slide all the way rearward, it should lock to the rear.

 

[fastbolt]

I use one of my regular pin punches (similar to 'frame tool' size) to depress the sear deactivation lever. I only remove the 'frame tool' if I want to replace the grip/palmswell insert. (But as an armorer I usually have anywhere from a few, to all, of my armorer tools with me when working a range session and cleaning guns.)

The slide failing to consistently lock back when the mag runs dry? If you're using a high/high neutral thumb position for your grip, you may be unknowingly allowing your thumb to prevent the slide stop lever from rising to lock back the slide on an empty magazine.

The M&P pistol is striker-fired, uses a Zytel plastic frame and has the nicely curved trigger design first created for the Sigma series, but it contains many refinements and great features not found in the that earlier design.

Congrats.

 

[Jim PHL]

I did the same as you originally, the directions tell you to remove the backstrap retaining pin and use it to move the sear disconnect lever. Actually the only reason you need to remove the backstrap retaining pin is if you want to remove/change the backstrap.

With the slide locked back you can reach into the ejection port with just about anything that will fit (toothpick, pen, key) to rotate the SDL downward to remove the slide. (I can actually get my pinky in there to do it.)

If you have a model without the magazine safety, you can also just pull the trigger instead of using the SDL. I think S+W just designed it that way for those who prefer to not have to pull the trigger to field strip.

My M&P9c was my first polymer pistol, being a revolver and S+W "third gen" fan (in addition to the BHP and 1911). I like it way more than I thought I would and recently added the new "Shield" as well. It's also pretty impressive.

Also wanted to add; I've heard nothing but rave reviews of S+W customer service. If the slide not locking back is due to a weak magazine spring or worn follower, I'd just replace it myself. If you determine that it is anything else, or can't determine what it is, allow S+W to take care of it for you.

 

[4thPointOfContact]

Agreed, although the frame tool is a nice idea I only use it when changing backstraps. All other times, I just stick my little finger down the ejection port and catch the SDL with a fingernail.
A modification to eliminate the magazine safety is on the short list of things to be done soonest.