GP100 - Hard Trigger Pull - Hitching/Binding Issue

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Ej3

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I just received my new GP100 with 6” barrel this past Friday 02/02/18. Out of the box is has exhibited a hard trigger pull, like a hitching/binding feeling on one of the six pulls. It feels like a bind that requires much more effort to finish pulling the trigger in DA. This is really seen best with my daughter pulling the trigger. It occurs both in DA and SA mode. It is the same dry firing, with snap caps, and I noticed it when firing live rounds. As of this posting, it only has (25) 38 Special and (10) 357 Magnum rounds through it.

You can see it here:

In my research I have read to look closely under the ejection star, and be sure it is clean. And to be sure the cylinder spins freely with the crane open. Sometimes gunk can build up on the shaft the cylinder spins on. As far as I can tell, neither of these areas is a problem. There also does not appear to be any grinding or binding between the cylinder and the barrel.

It appears that this will be the first gun that I will have to send back to the manufacturer for warranty work. It is very disappointing to have this problem right out of the box. I hear the Ruger is good about handling these types of problems. I hope that holds true for my situation.
 
That sucks, but Ruger will make it right. They will email you a FedEx label to print and affix to the box. It will return (Adult Signature Required) in 7-10 days working properly. I don't know if Ruger makes more or less lemons than other makers, but they are terrific at righting any wrong you may encounter as a Ruger owner (even if your fault).
 
Is it only on the same chamber or does it happen on different chambers?

I suspect it has to do with how the star interfaces with the hand

Yes, it only binds on one chamber, the same one each time.
 
Would like to mention that Ruger DA isn't like a S&W in that pulling it through there will be a 'pause' after the cylinder indexes and locks before the hammer falls. This is a very helpful feature if you learn to use it as it allows you to easily stage the trigger in fast DA shooting. The tip of my trigger finger just touches the back of the guard when it hits the 'stage' and I can quickly advance to that point...pause for an instant to align the sights then press and release the shot. With practice this can be done while still in recoil and by the time you get back down on the target the hammer is back and cylinder locked and ready to go...only needing to touch off the shot much like if it was in SA.

With you feeling more hesitation on only one cylinder it's most likely a slight burr on the star or the tip of the hand as others have mentioned and I'd not want to send the gun back for such a thing. It very well might work itself out with some use, and unless the star is cut poorly you should be able to see the part that is causing the problem. When I got my Rugers (5 at the moment) I sat down and dry-fired each about 1000 times to break them in. It's also good exercise for your trigger finger/s (both hands need the work:)) to dry fire quickly 100 times (at least) then switch hands and repeat. If you find yourself slowing down and/or your muscles burning....that's a great sign that you need to build things up a bit. Your shooting will improve as will the smoothness of the revolver.
 
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I had what sounds like the same problem with my GP 100. I am not as knowledgeable as most in knowing my gun schematics but I had a burr directly across from the star - the flat area where the firing pin is. I called Ruger and they said to send it in rather than trying to file it myself. The process was painless and they also inspected the gun further and adjusted the endshake (which I never noticed). Got the gun back quickly and it shoots perfectly. This gun gives my target 1911 a run for it's money.
 
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