Greek M1 Garand followed me home

[Uncle Nubbs]

Came into an unexpected cash gift from my employer for ten years of service and I decided to put it towards a new rifle project. Me and the kids hit up 4 LGS in the DFW area looking for something to take up. Most interesting thing I found were a rack of K-31s which I have on the list but pretty far down. Anyway, on a last ditch whim, I stopped by Cabelas and there they were in the gun library. 5 M1 Garands. Top of the list. Holy Grail as far as I'm concerned, and I knew I would never forgive myself if I didn't act on it.
All of them looked nice. I went with the cheapest one which looked nice other than the stock. It had a lot of scratches and dings and Greek characters carved into it. Serial on receiver suggests manufacture in 54-55 and its a Springfield. Some wear on the op rod track and the gas cylinder has no finish left. I'm a noob on Garands. Love the history but being this is my first one, thought I'd share and see what y'all think. I'm guessing this came to Cabelas via owner via CMP but who really knows.

I am currently reworking the stock. I want to see if I can salvage it because I like the character. Think it's birch. I like how BLO works on birch so that's where I'm headed. After many applications, I plan on adding a coat or two of minwax tung oil finish. I did add a small amount of Fiebings medium brown to the first coats of BLO to help the pieces match.

I also plan on blackening the gas cylinder. I understand Caldwells makes a product I can use or others have suggested high temp matte engine paint. Any suggestions are appreciated.


That's the original rifle as is




Here's the furniture after 4 rounds BLO plus a smidgen of dye.

 

[dogmush]

Congrats. nice rifle.

I finally forced myself to spend the scratch on an M1 this winter, for much the same reasons. I have always wanted one, and they aren't getting cheaper. I really like the look of yours. To me, these rifles are 60-70 years old, and shouldn't look new. I like how you dressed yours up, without a full on recondition.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

I agree they shouldn't look new. I love the worn look and believe me, if this was a parts matched WW2 rifle, it'd go over the fireplace as is. I am fixing to shoot with this one. I really don't mind the dings and scratches but a nice fresh oil job would be nice. Thanks for the comment.

 

[P5 Guy]

Stick with just BLO.
Wax and tung oil finish, forget about that.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

Noted. P5 Guy, is it the luster of minwax Tung oil/ stock wax? Personal preference? I'd be curious if you could expand. I kind of planned this out based on CMPs refinishing page but I am a little concerned about the wood looking "shiny" which I feel is slightly uncharacteristic on an M1 battle rifle.

Basically, if I use oil only I could "freshen it up" with BLO from time to time over the years but otherwise, it should age and develop the worn GI look over time?

That kinda what you're thinking. As I mentioned in the OP, looking for suggestions from folks who know, so thank you.

 

[BCRider]

My experience with oil finishes on working tools is that if you freshen the oil up once a year or so with some of the oil mixed with a bit of solvent that it'll allow you to use some elbow grease to somewhat clean the accumulated grit and hand oils out of the finish at the same time you're feeding the original oil finish.

My preference for this is to cut the oil about 1:1 and apply the oil wash with a pad of fine steel wool worked firmly to aid in both cutting away any grime and also to avoid a high build and a varnish like look after some years. And BLO will build to that degree if you give it a chance. The stock on my cowboy action shotgun is getting that way. Next time around I'm going to get a bit more aggressive with the steel wool.

Using the solvent in the feeding oil is even more important if you use a wax on the stocks between oilings. Wax is famous for embedding and holding grit and body oils. So you want the solvent to aid in cleaning it away. Personally I don't like using wax for this reason. The oil finish itself will build to a low lustre satin sheen within a couple of years from handling and the slow build from each coat. So I'd suggest you just live with a slightly dull look for the first year or two that you'll get from the original finish done from scratch.

Dings and other pressure marking on the wood is up to you and how you handle it. Most of us won't see much in the way of added "character marks" because we're so careful with handling our guns. On the other hand if you take part in any sort of "run and gun" matches I'd expect to add a few of your own marks to the historical records imprinted in the wood. And that's not a bad thing.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

Great comment and thank you. Is there a particular solvent which fits the bill? Have some other rifles in the cabinet with oil finished Id like to experiment with your technique.

Yeah, I'd thought about pitching the banged up greek stock and starting fresh but it was a nice fit and the various dings and gouges didn't really bother me. As I said, I want a shooter here. Mainly, just want to make it look a little better than it came to me and kind of make it mine, if that doesn't sound too cheesey. Never did a run and gun but I've seen quite a few YouTube videos in the course of learning Garands and they do look like fun though. I could see getting involved in that.

 

[nathan]

Pure tung oil is available at hobby lobby . Dont use the one sold at lowe's or home depot for it has additives.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

Yes, I have some pure tung on hand. I went BLO specifically because I really liked how it looked on a different birch stock I have. The minwax tung is from Home Depot and I got it strictly based on CMPs stock refinishing page. I'm rethinking that based on some comments here.

 

[Orlando]

I have refinished 30-40 Garand stocks and several Carbine stocks and used BLO. I prefer it over Tung Oil, its more forgiving, has a nice low luster, not shiney
JMO

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

BLO gives wood nice depth. Don't know how else to describe it. Thanks for the comment

 

[Normandy]

Just today, I bought an M2 carbine stock and hand guard, with all the metal, for $20, at a gun show. It was the next-to-last one on the table, and they had already sold "a bunch", so not the nicest one. But, it's black walnut, and the hand guard alone is worth $20.

I strip these with denatured alcohol and 0000 steel wool, then wash in hot, hot soapy water. After drying overnight in the house, I'll start by hand-rubbing pure tung oil on it. I bought a quart at "Mother's Milk" web site. After about 8 hours, I'll use an old T-shirt and wipe it all off, then reapply. And after another 4 or 5 hours, wipe it off and add another coat. Once there's 3 or 4 coats on it, I will buff it with the T-shirt material and give a sheen to it, but not a shine. Sort of an egg shell luster. And I do it that way because I like it that way.

You should finish your Garand to please you. The next owner can make themselves happy by applying the finish THEY like.

I hope it's a great shooter.

 

[HKGuns]

Stick with just BLO.
Wax and tung oil finish, forget about that.

Yes, couldn't agree more.

I would not use MinWax finish on that stock. Stick with just plain BLO and ensure you let it dry well between applications. Pure tung oil doesn't have the driers that BLO does and will likely leave the stock sticky.

ETA: 4-6 coats with a minimum of 24 hours drying time between coats

Use 0000 steel wool lightly between coats wiping down well with a clean dry cloth before the next application of BLO.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

You should finish your Garand to please you. The next owner can make themselves happy by applying the finish THEY like.

I couldn't agree more. It's mine. I don't know if I'll ever part with "my first Garand". I kind of grow attached to the rifles I work with and its hard to imagine parting with any of them. Modern stuff will come and go but these things just get kind of special with me. The Garand is something I've always wanted. Yes, I hope to have a real collectors one someday but I digress.

You all have had some wonderful suggestions. I think I'll forget the minwax TO and stock wax and just focus on a BLO finish I like. Not a whole lot else I want to do to it other than blacken the gas cylinder.

Here is the latest pic after tonight's BLO application

 

[tcoz]

If you think you like it now, wait until you shoot it. I wish I could shoot my AR's with red dot scopes as well as I shoot my M1 with its outstanding iron sights. I can see why Gen Patton described it as the greatest battle implement ever devised.

 

[Sprouticus]

Get a copy Walt Kuleck's assembly guide, it was very helpful when I was a Garand noob.
http://www.amazon.com/M1-Garand-Complete-Assembly-Guide/dp/1888722134/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426997816&sr=1-11&keywords=garand


I also like to buy a new spring/pin set form Orion 7. Worn-out springs can create all sorts of issues.
http://www.m1garand.com/store/m1_complete_recommended_spare_parts_kit.html


PPU makes 30.06 especially for Garands.
Target Sports is selling it for $350.00 & free shipping.
http://www.targetsportsusa.com/prvi-partizan-30-06-m1-garand-ammo-150-grain-fmj-500-rds-ammocan-p-3573.aspx

 

[tcoz]

I strip these with denatured alcohol and 0000 steel wool, then wash in hot, hot soapy water. After drying overnight in the house, I'll start by hand-rubbing pure tung oil on it. I bought a quart at "Mother's Milk" web site. After about 8 hours, I'll use an old T-shirt and wipe it all off, then reapply. And after another 4 or 5 hours, wipe it off and add another coat. Once there's 3 or 4 coats on it, I will buff it with the T-shirt material and give a sheen to it, but not a shine. Sort of an egg shell luster. And I do it that way because I like it that way.

^^^^^This. Then as a final protective coat, I put on 3-4 applications of Tom's 1/3 Mix (thegunstockdoctor.com). No matter what you use, don't rush the drying process between coats. The entire process takes a while, but you'll be happy with the results.

 

[wojownik]

With tcoz and normany above, BLO or tung. Minwax is the wrong path. I recently refinished a 1903A3 stock (one covered with paint and grease)- I decided not to use dye because the wood looked pretty good underneath all that garbage. 4 light applications of BLO ... over time and patiently. Came out a bit lighter than my other 1903s, but very pleased overall.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

Dye can be tricky and very easily overdone. Yes patience is key. I "unsporterized" a Lee Enfield no1 mk3 last year which required color matching 4 pieces of furniture. Pieces ranged from light to moderately dark. Trick was to move very slowly and I cut the dye with acetone and started with the light pieces while keeping the dark pieces wet with acetone only. Built it up till they all looked just about the same wet and STOPPED. Used that same method on this M1 but much less. The main stock was just a bit lighter than the top and front hand guards so it wasn't as extreme.

I'm happy with the result but as you know, anything worthwhile is worth taking your time with.

 

[P5 Guy]

Well OP you can refinish your rifle as you see fit. Personally I prefer to keep to the original finishing technique.
From Hatcher's Book of the Garand.
"Raw Linseed oil This oil is used to prevent the stock and handguards from drying and to preserve them."
"The barrel and receiver group should next be disassembled, and the wooden handguards should be wiped clean with cloth saturated with solvent, dried, and treated with linseed oil as was done for the stock."
Just my opinion and the way I treat my M1s.

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

So many ways. Nothing beats the tried and true of original method. I plan on sighting in my Garand using the method found in army training films circa 1942 available on the military public domain channel in youtube.

It's my understanding, original Garand stocks were constructed from Walnut. Later stocks were also made out of birch, which is what this appears to be. I really like how BLO takes to birch which was a big part of why I chose it over true linseed oil. Yall have had great suggestions and it has definitely tailored my plan. I do appreciate the quote.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

I highly recommend the ported gas plug from Garandgear.com for shooting commercial ammo without having to worry about damaging your op rod...their site is full of great how tos as well for refinishing and all sorts of other garand stuff...

 

[Uncle Nubbs]

I was already planning on picking up one of their ported gas plugs. They've been a terrific resource as well.

One other question for you Garand folks in the know... Any reccos on a good grease? I'll be greasing the moving parts before final assembly. Seen a few products not sure if they are gimmicky or more expensive than they need to be. Either way it's not cost prohibitive I was just curious what works for yall.

 

[tcoz]

IMO, there's no reason not to shoot surplus Greek HXP in your M1. Short of match grade or competition ammo, I can't imagine anything being more accurate and it's also relatively inexpensive compared to commercial ammo. No ported gas plug necessary with it either.

 

[tcoz]

Any good grease will work. Lubriplate was the original milspec grease for the M1 and it's still available. Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease is very highly recommended and it's what I use. I paid $8.95 for a tube that will probably last five lifetimes. I also use Swab-It's foam tipped applicators to apply it since I don't like the cotton residue that Q-tips leave behind.