I see 4 spray cleaners at Walmart. Gun scrubber, gun medic, clp, and powder blast. Any particular advantage one have over another? None damage the blueing right? What about the factory plastic grips on my 96fs? Gun scrubber says may harm finished surfaces or plastics. Most economical per ounce are gun scrubber and powder blast- big 10 or 12 oz. cans versus dinky 4oz cans of others. Do you use these on the bores (barrel) too? Or you buy those separate HOPPES jars?. Seems like dipping a brass dirty brush in a jar would contaminate it fast?
Gun cleaning chemicals
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JCooperfan1911
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My favorite is CLP. It’s what we used in the military. Break Free, Slip 2000, M-Pro 7, several choices on the market. Whichever’s cheapest.
It’s a one step cleaner. Wet the surface of all parts, let sit for a minute, scrub with a brush, and wipe away. Use the same bottle to lightly relubricate when done. It don’t get no simpler than that and works great. Will not harm plastic, especially on a Beretta. You’d have armories full of melted M9 grips if that was the case.
It’s a one step cleaner. Wet the surface of all parts, let sit for a minute, scrub with a brush, and wipe away. Use the same bottle to lightly relubricate when done. It don’t get no simpler than that and works great. Will not harm plastic, especially on a Beretta. You’d have armories full of melted M9 grips if that was the case.
You've got 7 posts and are asking some basics so I will be a bit more detailed then normal...
I see 4 spray cleaners at Walmart. Gun scrubber, gun medic, clp, and powder blast. Any particular advantage one have over another?
GunScrubber is the best cleaner as you have listed IMHO. Seems the Gun Medic touts itself as an all-in-one. CLP is good for general cleaning, lube, and basic (not long term) protection. Hence the name.
None damage the blueing right?
Leave ANYTHING on long enough and the answer is yes. But basically a ''cleaning'' would then be wiped off, and a thin coat of protectant would be applied. If you want to stay with sprays, I prefer Birchwood Casey Barricade, did they have that also?
What about the factory plastic grips on my 96fs?
You will get 1000 answers to this and 995 are correct. I would call the manufacturer of the gun, ask then to be SURE. But G Scrubber SHOULD be OK, I M sure others here will sound out if they know of any damage.
Gun scrubber says may harm finished surfaces or plastics. Most economical per ounce are gun scrubber and powder blast- big 10 or 12 oz. cans versus dinky 4oz cans of others.
May is not SHALL. Generally, I find that someone misused the product and equates into labels.
Do you use these on the bores (barrel) too?
Because of the evaporating qualities of GScrubber, no. CLP yes. I patch out the bore.
Or you buy those separate HOPPES jars?. Seems like dipping a brass dirty brush in a jar would contaminate it fast?
You are correct redipping into original cleaner will contaminate the whole jar. So, don't! Get a small 2oz applicator bottle that is chemical resistant. Fill it, and work from there. If there is some type of oopsie, you MIGHT lose that small part vs. contaminating the whole jar. Another technique is using an eye dropper, apply to the brush. Or alternatively just dip a patch in the original jar and swab the bore. LET THE CHEMICAL SIT for a few minutes; allow the solvent to do it's job. Patch out several times until dry.
That said, in my ''good ol days'' when carrying revolvers, we qualified , everyone lined up and assisted cleaning the pistols. Brushes into & out & back again into the huuuge jar of Hoppe's. Those guns lasted many decades AFTER the Dept went to GLocks.
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Additionally a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean your brushes etc. is helpful. As well is a straight handled toothbrush for the nooks & crannies.
Nitrile gloves , mask, goggles,a few old T shirts for a clean vs dirty work station, and have fun!
Mask & goggles; think. You are spraying a product into the air which will remove metal (copper) and powder residue from a bore that was placed there under high pressure & heat. You nose, throat, and lungs are simple tissue. Err on caution's side, and use outdoors w/wind as much as possible!
I see 4 spray cleaners at Walmart. Gun scrubber, gun medic, clp, and powder blast. Any particular advantage one have over another?
GunScrubber is the best cleaner as you have listed IMHO. Seems the Gun Medic touts itself as an all-in-one. CLP is good for general cleaning, lube, and basic (not long term) protection. Hence the name.
None damage the blueing right?
Leave ANYTHING on long enough and the answer is yes. But basically a ''cleaning'' would then be wiped off, and a thin coat of protectant would be applied. If you want to stay with sprays, I prefer Birchwood Casey Barricade, did they have that also?
What about the factory plastic grips on my 96fs?
You will get 1000 answers to this and 995 are correct. I would call the manufacturer of the gun, ask then to be SURE. But G Scrubber SHOULD be OK, I M sure others here will sound out if they know of any damage.
Gun scrubber says may harm finished surfaces or plastics. Most economical per ounce are gun scrubber and powder blast- big 10 or 12 oz. cans versus dinky 4oz cans of others.
May is not SHALL. Generally, I find that someone misused the product and equates into labels.
Do you use these on the bores (barrel) too?
Because of the evaporating qualities of GScrubber, no. CLP yes. I patch out the bore.
Or you buy those separate HOPPES jars?. Seems like dipping a brass dirty brush in a jar would contaminate it fast?
You are correct redipping into original cleaner will contaminate the whole jar. So, don't! Get a small 2oz applicator bottle that is chemical resistant. Fill it, and work from there. If there is some type of oopsie, you MIGHT lose that small part vs. contaminating the whole jar. Another technique is using an eye dropper, apply to the brush. Or alternatively just dip a patch in the original jar and swab the bore. LET THE CHEMICAL SIT for a few minutes; allow the solvent to do it's job. Patch out several times until dry.
That said, in my ''good ol days'' when carrying revolvers, we qualified , everyone lined up and assisted cleaning the pistols. Brushes into & out & back again into the huuuge jar of Hoppe's. Those guns lasted many decades AFTER the Dept went to GLocks.
////////////////////
Additionally a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean your brushes etc. is helpful. As well is a straight handled toothbrush for the nooks & crannies.
Nitrile gloves , mask, goggles,a few old T shirts for a clean vs dirty work station, and have fun!
Mask & goggles; think. You are spraying a product into the air which will remove metal (copper) and powder residue from a bore that was placed there under high pressure & heat. You nose, throat, and lungs are simple tissue. Err on caution's side, and use outdoors w/wind as much as possible!
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Everyone has a heart attack at the mention of WD-40 but I've used it for 40 years with no ill effects to any of my guns. Don't use it as a lube but it will cut carbon fowling as good as anything nd I've always got it on the shop bench.
Definitely pay attention to the labels, some of those will ruin plastic as soon as it hits it.
It will do the same to bluing, so be careful and read those labels. If they mention anything about damaging your finish, I would pass. There are plenty of cleaning products that are safe on all firearms.
Slip2000 and other products that the company offers are very good. Boretech is another one that I've used for years, 100% hazmat free. They also make other cleaners that are top notch.
If you have any doubts, test the product in an out of the way place on your firearms. Something that will be covered up by another part.
Be safe!
It will do the same to bluing, so be careful and read those labels. If they mention anything about damaging your finish, I would pass. There are plenty of cleaning products that are safe on all firearms.
Slip2000 and other products that the company offers are very good. Boretech is another one that I've used for years, 100% hazmat free. They also make other cleaners that are top notch.
If you have any doubts, test the product in an out of the way place on your firearms. Something that will be covered up by another part.
Be safe!
Zerodefect
member
Non-spray Breakfree CLP seems pretty harmless.
Please don't post the same topic more than once.
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