Handloading for milsurps

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Langenator

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Having sent in my C&R papers, I sit around and surf the web and daydream of a safe full of Mausers, Mosins, and SKSs...of of taking them to the range to shoot them.

I know 7.62x39 can be had for cheap and in bulk, and AFAIK so can 7.62x54R. Not so for 8mm though.

So...handloading would be the answer...but Dillon doesn't list any dies for 8mm...who, if anyone, makes them?
 
I have Hornadys. Wait till you get your C&R, then send a copy to Midway and order whatever brand you decide on from them. You'll get the dealer pricing.
 
Yup, the discount on one small accessories order from Brownells or Midway will pay for your C&R license. Of course after that you start to buy stuff you want instead of need because the discount is so attractive, and pretty soon it's a race to see if buying accessories or guns will be first to ignite your credit card. :D
 
Not so for 8mm though
Langenator ..... I thought this stuff was still very available and very cheap. I am sure I got a batch of 1400 or so rounds for some silly price many months ago - and from where I quite forget ...... but have seen (I thought) ad's still around for similar deals.

It is of course corrosive but .. apart from that .. it's very cheap shooting.

I had thought of getting dies etc to reload so as to have more control and avoid corrosive but on my reckoning - didn't seem worth it.
 
Langenator,

7.92 x 57 ( 8mm Mauser ) is the cheapest and most readily available of ALL milsurp rounds... has been for years.

The one constant in milsurp ammo availability has been that when other calibers are temporarily in short supply, you can always still find bou-cou quantities of 8mm and shoot as much as you want for just a few bucks.

Right now you can get 1970's production Romanian 8mm, which is some of the best as far as accuracy goes, for about 8 cents a pop. Turk is even cheaper. Check out AIM and the other ammo dealers for current buys. Most of them will always have at least 1-2 types of 8mm in stock.

Buy it cheap..... stack it deep.

Best to all,
Swampy
 
I hadn't really been considering the corrosive stuff...maybe I should...the low cost may be worth the extra cleaning.

I'd also thought of using a Mauser (probably a Yugo) with a scope or a scoped Mosin M38 as a pig gun...which was another reason I was thinking about loading my own.

Besides, one can never have too large a collection of reloading equipment.
 
Langenator,

If being corrosive is a problem for you, then you need to re-think the 7.62 x 54R issue...

I don't shoot Mosin's, but if what I understand is true, then most all of the milsurp 7.62 x 54R out there is corrosive too....

In actuality... cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo is not a big deal. Just clean as you normally would... just make sure you do it THAT DAY after you come home from the range. Laziness and waiting a few days to clean is not kosher with "old timey" ammo.

I've shot a fair amount of corrosive 8mm. My Mausers bores are in the same condition as when I received them....

Best regards,
Swampy
 
I prefer not to shoot corrosive ammo but if you do, Swampy is right on the mark. Clean it that day and preferrably as soon as you get home.

A little tip for range shooting: make a solution of 1 part ammonia to 3 parts water to keep in your range box or bag.

After your barrel cools down to where any liquid won't evaporate off quickly, take a patch and dampen it (not sopping wet) and run it through the barrel. Let it set about thirty seconds and run a dry patch down the barrel.

Also take some extra time and wipe off the bolt and bolt face.

This quickly neutralizes the corrosive salts so you have some time to get the gun home for a proper cleaning with any commercial solvent and one with ammonia is best. If you don't have a commercial solvent with ammonia just use the ammonia mixture until no green or greenish gray junk comes out of the barrel.

BTW: using an ammonia solution at the range should not be a trade off for not cleaning the gun right away it is a preventative measure in the event something comes up when you get home and can't get to the gun until the next day.

Some say to make sure the ammonia mixture does not get on the gun stock.

I keep my solution in a small Dristan Nasal Spray bottle so I can easily squeeze the amount I want on the patch.

And I've heard some say that Windex with ammonia works also although I have never tried that.

I might add to make sure you break down the bolt, (if possible and particularly in blow-back semi auto actions), and clean that too.

As Swampy commented, if you do that I don't think you should have any problems.

I prefer, though, to reload mine..it's fun...it's challenging....it produces a more consistant cartridge and it keeps me in the work shop and outta of trouble with the Mrs.

RCBS has an 8MM Mauser Competition die...the one I use. But it might have to be ordered by your favorite local dealer since it's not a common die that most stock.
 
Alan, that looks like some great advice. Thanks.

Now only 7 more weeks of daydreaming before the license (fingers crossed) gets here....

BTW...does anyone out there reload 7.62X54R at all? Or does everyone just shoot factory/surplus stuff?
 
I shot my first pig a few months ago. The only rifle that I could remember what I had last used to sight it in with was a Mosin-Nagant (Finn M-39) ... so that was the rifle that went along. (aside: I now keep a logbook with all the rifles and what was used to sight them in)

The 7.62x54R, 8x57, and 7.62x39 are so cheap that what I have started to do for hunting ammo is pull the FMJ bullets out of the mil-surp ammo and weigh them. Then I get some hunting bullets in the same caligber and weight and seat them to the same depth and then factory crimp them with a LEE Factory Crimp Die. The advantage, in addition to cost, is that the POI for your practice ammo matches the POI of your hunting ammo. I've never been able to detect a difference in POI or velocity (+/- five to ten fps anyway). I carry a little bottle of windex and another of lube along and since most of these rifles have cleaning rods, your set!

Saands
 
Collet puller ... you have to buy two collets (a .308 for all the 7.62 stuff and a .323 for the 8mm) but I always amaze myself how quickly you can crank out 20 rounds of hunting ammo for a walk into the woods. I will say that for convenience I allow myself to be a grain or so off on the weight of the bullet ... I think that the 7.62x54R were 149 grains and I used 150 grain SST's in their place. Heck ... I even do my 308 hunting ammo this way when I take the Garand out as it is sighted in with the mil-surp 308.

Saands
 
Thx saands ... I suspected as much!

Next question ... what collet pullers ..... make, source etc ... i think I may well need to avail myself of some. I really could do to get into this. Oh and ... what sourcing do you use for the 8mm bullets . make etc.

Sorry to be a pain!!
 
1. While the RCBS collet pullers are not perfect ... especially for the .310 bullets that are in the 7.62x54R rounds ... they work and they are quite reasonably priced.

2. I got them at MidwayUSA, but I'm sure that they are available everywhere.

3. I am not ABSOLUTELY sure, but I'm pretty sure that I have been using Speer's 150 grain bullets on top of the Turkish mil-surp 8x57 ammo ... this stuff is WAY hotter than most of the hunting loads that you can buy in 8x57 because there are some old 8mm "commission rifles" out there that were converted to a less potent but similar shaped 8x57 round ...

If you have any more questions, I'd be happy to share what I know.

REMEMBER: Make sure that you get the base of the bullets to the original depth ... you are matching seating depth, not overall length of the finished round!!!!!!

Be safe,
Saands

ps ... I think that I mentioned that I was using an SST on the 7.62x54 and that can't be true ... the SST's are 308 and I was using .310 or .311 150's on that round ... the SST's were for the Garand in 308.
 
Again thx ............ indeed .. original seating somewhat important .. good point to make. I imagine that the lead is not too deranged ... so too big or small a ''jump''.

I will look into this over time and yeah, if i may I will PM you later if needed.

Much appreciate the input ... I will leave you in peace (awhile!) :)
 
Yeah ... Since I'm typically using spitzer shaped bullets, they are pretty much identical to the FMJ spitzers that get pulled. Although I seriously doubt that I am the only person doing this, I haven't read about it anywhere else and it just seems like a pretty good way to use this supply of ammo that is SOOO reasonable.

Saands
 
I've never reloaded rifle ammo, and bullet seating depth generally isn't an issue with pistol stuff. How exactly to yo measure that?

Saands...tremendous idea. I'd have never thought about that and would have spent much time trying to calculate loads to mimic the performance of the milsurp loads. Or loading tons of ammo to practice with. Your way sounds much better.

*Returns to twidlling thumbs waiting for C&R license*
 
Well ... you measure the OAL of the milsurp cartridge before you take it apart, then you measure the length of the projectile that you pull out of it and subtract the two ... that gives you the location of the base of the bullet. Add that location to the length of YOUR hunting bullet and that gives you your new target OAL for your hunting load.

Pretty simple stuff actually.

By the way, seating depth can be VERY critical with straight walled pistol bullets as well ... an extra .1" of depth can alter the pressure DRAMATICALLY ... especially on a load that is already near the capacity of the case.

Saands
 
I've bought a couple thousand rounds of milsurp 8mm in the past year. Romainian, Turkish and Yugo... AIM has good prices. I mix a Simple Green and Water in a litter water bottle and take it oil and patches to the range. After shooting I mop out the barrel with several patches of Simple Green. Dry it. Then run a patch of Balistol through it, then a dry patch. It takes only a few minutes. I do this to remove the corrosive residue from the barrel. I then do a thorough cleaning when I have the time.

tjg
 
A good caliper (preferably digital) is a must for measuring overall round length.

They are also necessary in measuring for case trim after sizing them.

There are other things people use them for but those are the two biggest reason.

If you don't use calipers you are only guessing and hoping.

Post edit: please disregard this post. I read Langenator's last post wrong. Sorry, the system will not allow me to delete it.
 
saands-you mentioned that you have done the unload/reload trick with 8mm Mauser-may I ask what bullets you use when you reload for hunting?

The surplus ammo I've seen advertised used 154 gr bullets. The closest I saw while perusing the Midway catalog was 150 gr bullets by Sierra and acouple of others.
 
Vendors Honoring a C&R

I just got my C&R. Is there a list posted somewhere of the vendors who provide a discount to C&R holders?

TIA

Tom
 
Langenator: I used Speer's 150's ... with a little less pressure AND a little less mass, they end up pretty close to a good match. I probably wouldn't go 4 or 5 grains heavier, but lighter is fine.

Tom: I know for sure that MidwayUSA and Brownells both offer discounts and that MidSouth doesn't ... or at least didn't when I last checked ... too bad about MidSouth, I used to use them all the time as they are SUPER friendly, but MidwayUSA does a pretty good job.

Saands
 
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