Help me spend some money on my first repro revolver

[Geneseo1911]

Gentlemen-
I received a Cabelas gift card as a going-away present from my old job, and I have decided it is a good chance to try out black powder revolvers. I have read the stickies, and from that I have made a few decisions, but I want to see if you all have any more advice before I jump in.

What I know:
-I want the 1858 Remington New Army, steel frame, 8" bbl.
-I want to use real black powder; I'm still determining a source, but I think I've seen it in my LGS
-I need to build a reloading stand & buy another tool box.

Things I need advice on:
-are the Cabela's kits worth the $50? It seems they leave out a few things, and that you are likely paying a premium for the balls & wads they come with.

-How does one determine to use #10 or #11 caps? trial & error? Are all cap brands interchangeable like metallic primers, or unique like shotgun primers?

-What type/brand of capper do I want?

-What type/brand of powder flask and/or measure do you guys like? Source?

-How many of you use wads under vs just grease over the ball?

-commercial grease (bore butter, etc.), Crisco, rendered fat from your last brisket, or homemade mix?

-what spare parts are worth keeping on hand for the Pietta Remmy, in case they cease production, or teotwawki? I doubt I'll shoot the thing enough to wear it out, but one never knows. If I really get bit, I think I'd probably invest in a Ruger Old Army.

-any other tips for a beginner?

 

[BConklin]

Assuming you haven't already, ask at your local gun shop for black powder. Just because they don't have any on the shelf doesn't mean they don't carry it. They'll keep it in a special magazine in the back room. I was thrilled to find my local gunshop carries Goex. I was in there several times before I thought to ask. :banghead:

 

[TwoWalks]

Things I need advice on:
-are the Cabela's kits worth the $50? It seems they leave out a few things, and that you are likely paying a premium for the balls & wads they come with.

-How does one determine to use #10 or #11 caps? trial & error? Are all cap brands interchangeable like metallic primers, or unique like shotgun primers?

-What type/brand of capper do I want?

-What type/brand of powder flask and/or measure do you guys like? Source?

-How many of you use wads under vs just grease over the ball?

-commercial grease (bore butter, etc.), Crisco, rendered fat from your last brisket, or homemade mix?

I recently purchased an 1860 army from Cabela. I did not get the starter kit, not so much because of the price but the amounts of each item contained in the kit. 30 balls would only allow me to reload six times and the same applies for the wads.

Now you would need to look at each of the items on your list and realize, they each would be a matter of personal preference.

Suggestions:
Begin with bore butter
Use felt wads and see what you prefer.

The capper would be another personal choice. A lot of smaller fingered people place the cap by hand. Most cappers are a pain in the back side in my own opinion, but do to having thick fingers as well as head, I use a straight line capper.

Before purchasing, check a reasonable distance around where you live to see if you will be able to purchase caps, powder and balls.

These are just quick random thought off the top of my head and do not apply to everyone - perhaps not to anyone but myself.

 

[junkman_01]

Are all cap brands interchangeable like metallic primers, or unique like shotgun primers?

Where did you get the notion that shotgun primers are unique? 209 primers are the standard for shotguns and are no more unique than rifle or pistol primers.
BTW, you will have to use trial and error to determine what size/brand of caps work best for your gun. A proper fitting cap is the primary key to preventing chain fires.

 

[skipjack]

I like the universal capper by Ted Cash. It holds a hundred or so
caps, and is very easy to use. I got mine from the Possible Shop,
but there are other sources available online.

http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-cappers.html

You may have to gently file the end to fit your gun. I did for
my Colt 51 Navy.

As far as caps go, you will probably need to try 10 and 11.
Unless, of course, you buy a set of Ampco nipples, which are
designed for a size 11 cap. I have them in both my Navys, and
they are real nice.

For a flask, I like the Pedersoli colt style flask, with a spout that
throws a pre-determined charge. The spouts can be ordered
in different sizes to throw different charges, and can be shortened
to customize whatever charge you care to use.

I use wonderlube over the seated ball, finding it cheaper and easier
than using felt wads. I like a lot of lube, and can shoot many
cylinders of loads before fouling becomes a factor.


Good luck and good shooting!

 

[mykeal]

-are the Cabela's kits worth the $50?

IMHO, no. Buy just what you need, and in sufficient quantities to make the shipping worthwhile.

-How does one determine to use #10 or #11 caps? trial & error? Are all cap brands interchangeable

Trial and error, unless you want to go to the expense of replacing all 6 nipples at $5 each. Less expensive to buy caps and experiment than replace nipples.

Cap sizes are a crap shoot. They are not interchangeable between brands, and may even vary between lots within a given brand. You don't get 3 decimal place precision for 4 cents apiece. Here are the results of some measurements I made, at least 20 samples of each brand and size:

Others have made similar measurements and gotten similar, but not exactly the same, results, so bottom line: it's a crap shoot. Did I mention that it's a crap shoot?

-What type/brand of capper do I want?

The Ted Cash cappers are about as good as you're going to find. However, the Remington NMA is notoriously difficult to cap using a capper, as the space the nipple fits in is very small. The in-line cappers are the only ones that fit and even those may need some file work. Brand? Whatever.

-What type/brand of powder flask and/or measure do you guys like? Source?

Source - any one of the sutlers can provide a good unit. I'll say Track of the Wolf, but Cabela's, Dixie Gun Works, The Possible Shop, etc. etc. all have good units. Brand - not much to tell them apart, so you really don't have anything to lose. Get a large one.

-How many of you use wads under vs just grease over the ball?

It's probably 50/50. I use dry lubed wads. Wonder Wads is a good brand, but many folks make their own using Durofelt and Ballistol or a homemade lube mix.

-commercial grease (bore butter, etc.), Crisco, rendered fat from your last brisket, or homemade mix?

No comment.

-what spare parts are worth keeping on hand for the Pietta Remmy, in case they cease production, or teotwawki?
Springs. Two each trigger/bolt spring and hand spring. One mainspring. Options are to buy hand/spring assemblys instead of just the springs (recommended). Or get a complete kit with extra springs - that would cover just about any problem you'd ever have.

 

[Fingers McGee]

What Mykeal said +1 except, I use lubed wads between ball and powder, usually made by someone else and cheaper than Wonder Wads. Bore Butter to lube the Arbor on a Colt style revolver. They will shoot all day that way.

FM

 

[Geneseo1911]

junkman, you must not be a shotgun reloader. Different brands of 209 primers have very different characteristics, and are not interchangeable. A given load that calls for a specific brand can be dangerously over pressure with another brand. You'll also find some brands are slightly different sizes. Once I put Cheddite primers into a hull, Win., Rem., & CCI won't stay in the pocket. I agree that it does not matter in an inline muzzleloader, however. Usually.

Thanks for all who have commented so far, please keep it coming.

 

[junkman_01]

My point was that shotgun primers are NO MORE unique than other primers or caps.

 

[arcticap]

-I want the 1858 Remington New Army, steel frame, 8" bbl...
....-How does one determine to use #10 or #11 caps?

Without going too far out on a limb, many folks have mentioned that they prefer to use the Remington #10's with the Pietta 1858 factory nipples.

 

[BHP FAN]

Remington #10's or CCI #11.

 

[Jaymo]

I've used CVA patch lube, TC bore butter, and crisco in my Pietta '58 Remington, Pedersoli Howdah, CVA Colonial, and TC Renegade. So far, they've all worked equally well.
I've also used my own home made patch/bullet lube. My home made is a good hot weather lube, because it's not as soft as the other 3.

 

[ontarget]

All good advice. The best part of BP shooting is that it is a very personal sport. We all have a different preference for everything. Yes we do agree on this or that but none of us share the exact same technique, pet load, cleaning practices, wads, lubes, etc. Start with the advice here and tweak it as your experience grows. Have fun and keep us posted, maybe you will introduce us to something new.

 

[Sniderman]

Good advice here,, It really is an individual sport.
One thing I would advise when burning BP in a revolver is to make yourself a short cleaning rod with a bronze brush on it. I have one and it's one of the first things that I get out of the shooting bag. With six rounds per loading, your barrel will foul rather quickly and the rod will make it easy to clean out the fouling between reloads.
Have fun!

 

[cad4340]

Wow, lots of good info here. For what it's worth here's my $0.02 worth.

My first foray into BP was an 8" Uberti 1858 Remington replica I got from Cabelas. It's still one of my favorites and a beautiful shooter so you're off on the right foot.

I use 20-25 grains of Goex FFFg with Wonderwads and Hornady .454 round balls and have never been disappointed.

Unless you plan on carrying extra, pre-loaded cylinders, I'm not sure I'd spend the money on a loading stand. It's really just as easy to load the cylinder while it's on the gun.

Don't spend the money on the Cabelas Starter Kit. It has things you don't need (powder measuring tool, bore lube, a crappy nipple wrench, etc.) and doesn't have things you do need (Wonderwads, cleaning supplies, a good nipple wrench, etc.). BTW, a good nipple wrench is not to be confused with a well executed titty-twister.

Do some research and get a good powder flask that throws the correct # of grains for your application and preference. Don't get the plastic CVA one from Cabelas. It's a real POS.

All of the Bore Butter type products, while they may work well, are just a greasy, nasty mess. You get the same results with the pre-lubed wads without having to carry a rag to wipe your hands on.

Other than that, just remember to give the caps a pinch to help them hold onto the nipples a bit better and clean the gun immediately after use.

Have a great time. BP is lots of fun and always a crowd pleaser at the range. Drop me a line when you're ready to step up to a 20 ga. Howdah. That's an attention getter.

 

[martysport]

I find the RWS1075 caps a good fit on my Pietta 1858