Hokkmike
Member
Can you tell me about your successful home blueing attempts? I have used some "cold blueing" solutions with fair results. Mostly, clean the metal, let it dry, shake, and apply the bleuing solution with a soft cloth or cotton.
Home Blueing
- Thread starter Hokkmike
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Several users have reported good results with the hot blue formula from BlindHogg's web site.
http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
/Bryan
http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
/Bryan
MARKSMANS8056
Member
My best results came with Blue Wonder. Go on their web site and find the video demonstration of gunsmith. Don't follow instructions that come with package. Do what he does and it really looks good. It is also good ingredients. Contains 24 carrot gold and Stirling silver. (these don't rust). Take a bit longer but it turns out really nice, almost like a black painted surface. It's worth a shot. It works well for me especially with Military guns.
Bryan
Bryan
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Hot bluing is not worth the mess & rust problems unless you can devote a separate out-building to it.
The fumes off of a hot bluing tank will rust every tool, part, gun, and anything else laying around in your house that's made out of steel, a bright nasty red the first time you cook off a batch.
Hot Bluing salts is really nasty stuff!
rcmodel
The fumes off of a hot bluing tank will rust every tool, part, gun, and anything else laying around in your house that's made out of steel, a bright nasty red the first time you cook off a batch.
Hot Bluing salts is really nasty stuff!
rcmodel
Regardless of sales pitches and hype, there is NO, let me repeat that, NO cold blue that will last. It will rub off or come off the first time you clean and oil your gun. Some brands advertise that their product is "used by gunsmiths." Sure, for touchup, but not by any competent gunsmith for a full reblue job.
There are, on the internet, several DIY formulas and compounds that supposedly are easier to use and safer than hot tank bluing. They do a good job for the simple reason that they ARE hot tank bluing compounds. Advertisers who claim they are easier, safer, etc., are simply lying.
Hot tank bluing is a complex and dangerous process; it is not for the home tinkerer. Rust blue is tedious, but will give a good, long lasting blue if done right. Parkerizing is easier than bluing but, like rust blue, requires boiling water and, for long guns, that means a tank just like that used for hot blue. Some bluing, like so-called nitre blue have to be used at temperatures high enough that heat treatment of the metal can be affected. They are usually recommended only for small, non-critical parts, but some folks don't read the directions.
Other finishes now available are paints of various kinds; some are durable and look good, but IMHO are no substitute for a good blue job.
Jim
There are, on the internet, several DIY formulas and compounds that supposedly are easier to use and safer than hot tank bluing. They do a good job for the simple reason that they ARE hot tank bluing compounds. Advertisers who claim they are easier, safer, etc., are simply lying.
Hot tank bluing is a complex and dangerous process; it is not for the home tinkerer. Rust blue is tedious, but will give a good, long lasting blue if done right. Parkerizing is easier than bluing but, like rust blue, requires boiling water and, for long guns, that means a tank just like that used for hot blue. Some bluing, like so-called nitre blue have to be used at temperatures high enough that heat treatment of the metal can be affected. They are usually recommended only for small, non-critical parts, but some folks don't read the directions.
Other finishes now available are paints of various kinds; some are durable and look good, but IMHO are no substitute for a good blue job.
Jim
lonewolf5347
Member
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http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258496
check out my last post
check out my last post
I rust-blued the Model 70 .458 Lott that I built over the summer gunsmithing courses at Trinidad. I was pretty happy with it. I bought the big tank and pipe burner from Brownells. I put the tank across saw horses and supported the burner with jack stands.
Bluing won't color silver solder, so keep tight seams and minimize bleed out of the solder.
I wanted a glossier finish than most rust blue I'd seen, and I polished to 1000 grit. If I do it again, I'll go to 400. It took a long time to "take" the color. Then it took a long time for the color to even out across the barrel.
HTH,
Steve
Bluing won't color silver solder, so keep tight seams and minimize bleed out of the solder.
I wanted a glossier finish than most rust blue I'd seen, and I polished to 1000 grit. If I do it again, I'll go to 400. It took a long time to "take" the color. Then it took a long time for the color to even out across the barrel.
HTH,
Steve
grendelbane
Member
Just got through using some Blue Wonder tonight. It works, after a fashion, but does not live up to the price, or the hype, IMHO.
Nitre bluing works well for some small pieces, and when cold winter weather strikes, I have a few pieces that will need it.
I am intrigued by the rust bluing process. I am sure that the composition of the browning liquid must be fairly simple. Are there any chemists in the house that would care to take a stab at a home made version?
Nitre bluing works well for some small pieces, and when cold winter weather strikes, I have a few pieces that will need it.
I am intrigued by the rust bluing process. I am sure that the composition of the browning liquid must be fairly simple. Are there any chemists in the house that would care to take a stab at a home made version?
fixyurgun
Member
Years ago I got nice results from a birchwood casey kit. I cleaned & stripped per their instructions ,but then heated the parts with a blowdryer ,before wiping the bluing on. it was an old 12 ga . Looked better than I thought it would. Held up better than follwing the instructions as written too. jim
My two cents
Jim: right on the money.
RC: right on the money.
As someone that grew up around the hot bluing process done right. THAT "looks painted" is what really turns me off!
I know a smith that does this for pay, when the client is willing to pay somewhere over 3 times that of a hot blue!
Jim: right on the money.
RC: right on the money.
As someone that grew up around the hot bluing process done right. THAT "looks painted" is what really turns me off!
I know a smith that does this for pay, when the client is willing to pay somewhere over 3 times that of a hot blue!
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