The .38 Spl is so low pressure your not going to see any signs of "pressure" on thebrass until you're way over.
And you would also have to be pretty warm to hurt your model 10.
Why do you ask? Are you using proven/tested data and staying at/under max?
I was warned about shooting hot loads in my S&W 10-5, and I was wondering if there's a way to tell the loads I've been firing are too hot. As in, are there any tell tale signs of damage? Warping? Anything?
Ouch!If you are not sure of the ammo you are loading in your gun...don't! The results of improper ammo can be disasterous.
Smith & Wesson
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Ruger
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Colt
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No. Already traded it. As I said, just curious was all.So, you shot the ammo in your gun that you asked everyone about now you want to know what to look for on your gun in case there are indications of damage?
If you are not sure of the ammo you are loading in your gun...don't! The results of improper ammo can be disasterous.
Smith & Wesson
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Ruger
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Colt
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Hate to be that guy, but can anyone explain why the cases ruptured that way? Is it simply because it was easier for the gases to leave through the cylinder rather than behind the projectile?
Probably severely over charged handloads. Very easily done in 38 Spl or 45 Colt for example due to very large case volume but small powder charges. You could very easily double charge one of those two and many others.
So basically the above revolvers were loaded loaded with enough powder to create a grenade.
Exactly why I look in every case before i put that projectile into position.
Yea, it takes a 1/2 second longer per round when loading, but it sure beats a face full of shrapnel......
Judging by the look of that screw on that Colt in the pic above, the gun must have committed suicide to get away from its owner.
The cylinder has to first contain the chamber pressure in order for the bullet to go anywhere. In an overpressure situation, where the cylinder cannot physically contain the chamber pressure, they almost universally blow at the weakest point, the bolt notches. So the "top" of the cylinder blows off and takes the top strap with it.Hate to be that guy, but can anyone explain why the cases ruptured that way? Is it simply because it was easier for the gases to leave through the cylinder rather than behind the projectile?
Exactly why I look in every case before i put that projectile into position.
I scan all the cases and compare them side by side just before I randomly weigh 3 of them as a QC check.
Maybe someday I'll get more into reloading. I only use the lee handloader kits because i don't have the space for a press, but I've never had a bad experience with them.A double load or a light load would stand out, especially if youre comparing them side by side.
Ive pulled cases off the block that "looked" off to me, and it turns out they were a couple of "tenths" off when weighed, but would have still been fine if maybe they had settled differently when thrown. My allowable error with thrown charges is usually a couple of tenths in either direction. Nothing that is out of line load-wise, or affects practical accuracy.
Im pretty anal when it comes to loading, but I try to not get "to anal".
As for splits in the cases, that's pretty common when the brass starts to fail over time. I load all my pistol brass to failure, and most of it literally lasts for years, especially the revolver cases. The rims on the auto cases and start to get chewed up from constant extractions, but that has a plus side to it too, from a malfunction practice standpoint.
Occasionally you will get cases that split after a few reloads, but that's not the norm, and just what it is. Nothing is perfect, you probably just got a bad case. Load enough and you'll see all sorts of weird stuff.
Now, if ALL your cases look like that..... you might want to look into things a little further.
I used rifle powders in my 357Max. even though there were load data for faster powders, I also prefer the full case method to rule out double charges, factory spec on the Max's are already operating at higher pressures than any standard magnum so there's not much leeway for exceeding the standard load pressures. I've also used my slower powders in 38 spec and 9mm and found them to be very accurate, maybe a little slower than factory, but also rather clean burning.If the gun hasnt blown up, stiff extraction and mashed back primers are often a sign.
Not always the sign, but something to pay attention to.
I load in 50 count trays these days, and like bigpower, I scan all the cases and compare them side by side just before I randomly weigh 3 of them as a QC check.
I prefer loads that will fill or overfill a case with a double load, but with the taller cases, and some powders, that's not always possible.
Except in one or two cases, my "blasting" ammo isn't usually loaded near max either. Usually just over middle of the road. The breathing room is good.
And for Todd's sake and suicide prevention, get some proper screwdrivers!
That's exactly how I started back in 1975 or so.Maybe someday I'll get more into reloading. I only use the lee handloader kits because i don't have the space for a press, but I've never had a bad experience with them.