howdy Im new to this and don't want to blow anything up so I am asking first

[ShadyTex]

Hi,

So I have been shooting for a long time and am at the point where I thought I could save a decent chunk of change with reloading. I think I have already figured out that by the time I am done I should have made another choice, but its to late now.

For now I am only doing handgun stuff and for the most part not worried about super accuracy more about getting the basics down without to much collateral damage.

So what I have started with is Lyman #49. A lee 1000 progressive 9mm kit so it came preset but I know better than to trust preset stuff and will go slow with the first few atempts. CCI small pistol primers. Remington 115gr fmj. new unfired 9mm brass I just got 100 of each to play with and make sure everything is going good. The only powder I could find local was sr7625.
I have a digital scale that reads up to 20 grams and the readout goes to xx.xxx So that should be plenty good right. It came with a 20gram 10gram and 1gram weight and all 3 read perfect.

So I used the chart that came with the lee press and the data from hodgdonreloading.com and came up with I need min 4.5 max. 4.9 grains and the lee chart said I should use number 49 on the auto disc.

I put some graphite powder in the hopper and shook it around then placed it over the 49 hole. I also used the graphite powder on the disc. I ran about 20 dumps into a primered brass and then dumped the graphite back out and tapped it to get rid of the excess.

I then filled the hopper up 1/3 with the sr 7625 and proceeded to cycle one brass about 10 times dumping the powder out back into the hopper. I set the empty case on the scale and zeroed it. I filled it with powder and weighed it 10 times each time it came out .30-.313 and after the first few it was usualy right at .31. but thats way to low compared to the data I found. So I moved to the 57 disc and got an average of .35 moved to the 66 and averaged .42
on the 71 disc I got a range of .443 - .457.

I was a bit concerned over having to go that much bigger than the lee manual recommended with the disc size and the amount of powder in the case so I wanted to ask before I did something stupid.

Basically the case was about 1/8" from being full of powder and OAL of 1.125 was recommended I never did seat an actual bullet yet I want to make sure the powder amount seems right.

Sorry about the long windiness but I wanted to try and get it all in one post

If I am way off base then please save me from myself.

thanks for your time.

 

[lauderdale]

Shadey the "SEARCH OPTION" Will be your best friend! Search this cite and read all you can! No pun intended as you are fired up,and the help will come!

 

[gamestalker]

You kind of lost me with the grams? Everything we weigh in this hobby is measured in grains. Whether or not the powder discs or bush measures in CC's or what ever, those are only to be used as a general reference once you've determined which will throw a determined weight in grains.

I know I have little experience using powder measures, but even so, checking your throw weights is verified in grains. Which disc or bushing is used matters not, what it consistently throws is where your focus should be. What I'm referring to is the numbers your stating don't correspond with relative measurements, such as .32-.313 and so on. Powder charges should be in grains only! According to Hodgdon, the charge table for that cartridge, bullet weight, and powder type should be 4.5 - 4.9 grains. Lyman and other books may publish something slightly different, but it usually be within similar range.

Additionally, am I understanding that you are zeroing the scale with your brass on it, and then throwing your powder charges directly into it as the brass sits on the scale? If this is what you are doing you need to cease doing so. Brass varies significantly in weight, therefore you can't use it directly on the scale as your pan, your charges can vary by extreme amounts.

GS

 

[gamestalker]

Ok, I see you are using grans, but still I'm concerned about the manner in which you are weighing the charges. Are you in fact weighing it with the scale zeroed to the brass?

GS

 

[ShadyTex]

the scale does not switch to grains on the display it reads in grams to 3 places.

So when it says 0.123 it means 1.23 grains. The 3 weights it came with to calibrate it were 20 grams 5 grams and 1 grams. and it read them out perfect at 20.000 5.002 1.001 so i assume its reading right.

I put the empty primed case on the scale and hit the tare <sp> button that sets it to 0.000 with the case on it. I then filled the case and re did the weight.


I just have no clue as to how much powder should be in the case and with using the way larger lee disc than recommended. And a scale that seems to function but I really don't know and I being new to this it seems a perfect storm to blow up a gun and I would prefer to skip that step in the learing curve

I did find a few pictures on the net and it seem like its probably correct I was just thrown off with all the "dont double charge" and there is no way in heck you could double charge the combo I am trying it would WAY over fill the case.

 

[beag_nut]

Whoa! You are confusing grams with grains, as you write them. There are 15.423 grains in 1 gram. What you said implies that there are 10 grains per gram, but that's wrong. You will get yourself in serious trouble pretty soon.
Check the directions for your scale; there should be a button to select either grains or grams, though it might not be obvious exactly how to do it.
What you have written so far practically guarantees that you will blow up something, as you fear.

 

[762 X 54r]

grams are the metric unit. 1 grain = 1/7000 of a pound. two totally defferent things.

1gram = ‪0.002205‬ pounds

0.002205‬ pounds X 7000 grains per pound = 15.435 grains

meaning 4.5 grains of powder is only .29 grams.

hope this helps and double check the math.

 

[sauer1911]

There are 7000 grains in pound. just over 450 grams in a pound. grains and grams are a HUGE DIFFERENCE.

I found a grain scale on ebay. search used or vintage reloading scale. Mine is a Redding scale. up to 350 grains. Unless its has been hit with a hammer or severely beaten in some way, it will NEVER wear out. it is perfectly zeroed out and tested with small gram weights. (just checked ebay, $20-$45!) I like the older black scales with the wrinkle finish!!!

I load anywhere from 4-6 grains for 9mm and .45acp shooting. This is my go to scale for measure checking. It is mechanical, not battery. It always works. I check about every 10 loads and all is great.

Get away from grams. only use to calibrate the scale and then hide them away. GRAINS! GRAINS!

be safe

 

[KansasSasquatch]

Don't use grams, even if you know how to do the proper conversion. That's just adding one more step in a process that can end in catastrophic results. Use GRAINS or don't reload. Even if you always get the conversions right, there's going to come a time when you have to round off a decimal place, do you want to risk rounding off too high?

 

[witchhunter]

Get a grain scale before you do anything else, there is no room in this for calculating gram to grain conversions. In a 9mm case, there is what 5 grains for a hot load? case is half full. Don't load without a proper scale.

 

[RussellC]

For what it is worth, I usually find I am using a larger hole than the chart calls for, especially with fluffy powders like Unique. I keep the Lee Safety Scale set to the weight I want, on an eye level shelf. Every so many throws I dump one on the scale to make sure it is being consistent. Its great for this use and only costs about 20 bucks.

Russellc

 

[gamestalker]

Honestly, and this isn't meant to offend you, or other wise embarrass you, but you need to either have someone who is accomplished and competent with reloading to mentor you, or pick up a good instruction book and spend some extensive time studying. The best option IMO though, would be to find an instructional reloading class where you can receive hands on instruction. If this is an option, please do so for your safety. You seem to have some how misconstrued the proper process for measuring powder, in this respect alone, your perception is seriously flawed, dangerously so.

Do you have instruction reloading books? If not, buy a couple of good one's, Speer, Hornady, Lyman 49th, ABC's of reloading are all good books and offer good clear methodology.

GS

 

[il.bill]

Shady -

Do not get discouraged, but before you load your first cartridge you definitely need to have a scale that directly reads GRAINS to safely reload with smokeless powder, even in Texas. Every published load I have ever seen in the good old USA is only listed in 'grains'.

Get some good reloading manuals and read, read, and read some more. Good information is your friend. Searches on reloading forums such as this one, and even the Google can show you a lot.

It sounds like you need a bit more background knowledge at this point - you scared a number of concerned folks with your talk about 'grams' and powder loads. Do not be intimidated, but do be careful. Do not be afraid to ask - the people here want to help.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

grams are the metric unit. 1 grain = 1/7000 of a pound. two totally defferent things.

1gram = ‪0.002205‬ pounds

0.002205‬ pounds X 7000 grains per pound = 15.435 grains

meaning 4.5 grains of powder is only .29 grams.

hope this helps and double check the math.

That is the correct math so your first throws of .31 grams was just above the middle of the charge range and that charge was safe. After that all the other charges were over the Hodgdon recommended Max of 4.9gr. That said, please get a proper scale. You spent a lot of money on a progressive press and are cheaping out by not buying a proper scale.

It's a very good thing you came here and asked because if you fired those rounds with a charge of over .457 grains which is over 7 grains of SR7625 things would have gotten interesting very quickly.

The RCBS 505 is a very good beam scale for under $100 and even lower used.
Dillon, Lyman, Hornady and a few others all make good scales. Some are identical to the RCBS scales (like the Dillon Eliminator) which are made by Ohaus.

The Hornady GS-1500 is a fairly good inexpensive digital scale. (~$35) I own and use one and double check with an RCBS 505. The Lyman Pro 1500 digital scale is even better but it's also more than twice the price @~$90. The RCBS 750 is about $120 and a very good scale and the great digital scale in the bunch is the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 but that's almost $200.

IMO unless you are weighing out all your charges for precision rifle shooting the top end digital scales are not needed but great when paired with an auto dispenser. ($375)

Sorry to go on so much but please buy a proper scale and take out one possible source of confusion and possible mistakes.

Welcome to the forum Tex!

 

[edfardos]

If unsure, ask! That's the first rule.

Well done, you'll keep all your fingers and eyes. Welcome to the hobby!

 

[Reefinmike]

First off- Welcome to THR. glad to have ya and hope we save you a couple fingers.

No need to buy "factory new" 9mm brass. you can buy once fired 9mm range brass for $30/1000 and I doubt you could tell the difference when shooting!

Also try out some plated bullets. xtremebullets.com are great and have the advantages of FMJ and the price of lead cast.

Lastly, get rid of that scale you bought. Grains and Grams are NOT interchangeable. Get yourself a cheap lee balance beam scale. Its basic but extremely precise. Build trust with your powder measure. I have certain powders that I know will throw right on the dot 100% of the time with my lee pro autodisk. Other powders vary a bit and I like to check in on the weight every 15-20 rounds.

 

[1SOW]

1. Get a powder scale. The LEE balance beam is a little awkward but it is accurate.
A balance beam scale is the most reliable to start with. An Ohaus 505 or Dillon Eliminator (Same scale) will last a lifetime

2. I load 124 gr jacketted 9mm using "IMR" sr 7625 powder and it's a good forgiving powder to start with. 4.5 "GRAINS" is just a skosh over half a 9mm casefull. It's exactly what I use for 124gr jacketted loads. 115 GRAIN bullets will likely need a little more powder.

3.The data from Hogdon is for a Speer 115gr JHP.

Speer GDHP
IMR SR 7625 1.125" OAL 4.5GRAINS, 1,031FPS 28,000 PSI (Starting load)
4.9 GRAINS, 1,113FPS 32,300 PSI (Maximum Load)
Your round nose bullets will be longer bullets than the hollow points, so be sure to start your tests at the starting loads and slowly work up into mid-range. ---maybe 4.7 grains

Hope this makes sense.

 

[ShadyTex]

Well thanks for saving my fingers.

I guess I assumed that with grams being metric a grain was the 1/10 step down as in a CM to a MM. Now I know. Its the US vs Metric thing.

back to the drawing board.

Gamestalker not to be a jerk but did you bother to read what I posted or just skim the replys. It says in the first part the manual I have and if I ask here is that not like having a mentor or a thousand. I may be new to this but I am not a fool. I made a mistake on assuming grains and grams were the same unit of metric measure and I am fully aware of what assume spells out . I do thank you for trying to help.

I see I have a new shopping list to add to to save money on shooting LOL

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Potatohead]

Welcome to the forum Shady! I dont think GS was calling you a fool. People on here get a little "concerned" if someone seems like they may be jumping the gun a bit. Hang in there. It's a good idea to get really really familiar with a manual or 3. I mean, read them over and over, until you know what's comin up on the next page.

I have been shooting for a long time and am at the point where I thought I could save a decent chunk of change with reloading

LOL


Also,
I know you're probably tongue-n-cheeking when you keep mentioning blowing fingers off, and collateral damage and such, but please know that this can be done safely. You dont have to expect that you're going to be blowing stuff up accidentally, although I dont want to minimize the dangers.

 

[Mohave-Tec]

It sounds to me that you have confused the .49cc hole in the auto disc for the "#49 hole". There is no #49 hole. It is a hole that has the volume of just under one half of a cubic centimeter. The numbers on the disc are not about weight, they are about space/volume. look closely and you will see decimal points in the numbers.

 

[UziLand]

Welcome Tex, You have received a lot of good advice here and even excited the "excitable" folks. I found some SR7625 at a local LGS yesterday. Never having used it I just grabbed one pound. Came home and started working up 9mm loads using xtreme 115gr RN bullet (downloaded IMR data first). Trying for a light load. Results. 4.0 grains would not cycle my S&W MP Pro w/5 in bbl. 4.2 grains worked fine and had light recoil. COAL was 1.090 to 1.115, CCI SP Primers. The stuff meters great and I did call and reserved another pound. Although I did flinch at the $32.95 price tag! Enjoy your new hobby and proceed with caution. Check and double check have kept me (and my guns)safe for over 20 years.

 

[il.bill]

Hi,

So I have been shooting for a long time and am at the point where I thought I could save a decent chunk of change with reloading. ... .

Another important point in addition to 'be careful' and 'ask first' - you may be surprised if you really expect to save any money reloading. When all is said and done, I think most folks find that they do not ultimately save money by reloading. It will simply end up allowing you to shoot more for the same cost.

Welcome to the hobby and to THR. Good luck!

 

[ShadyTex]

Thanks again for the warm welcomes and good info. I will see how it goes with the new scale and more reading when it comes in.

 

[RussellC]

1. Get a powder scale. The LEE balance beam is a little awkward but it is accurate.
A balance beam scale is the most reliable to start with. An Ohaus 505 or Dillon Eliminator (Same scale) will last a lifetime

2. I load 124 gr jacketted 9mm using "IMR" sr 7625 powder and it's a good forgiving powder to start with. 4.5 "GRAINS" is just a skosh over half a 9mm casefull. It's exactly what I use for 124gr jacketted loads. 115 GRAIN bullets will likely need a little more powder.

3.The data from Hogdon is for a Speer 115gr JHP.

Speer GDHP
IMR SR 7625 1.125" OAL 4.5GRAINS, 1,031FPS 28,000 PSI (Starting load)
4.9 GRAINS, 1,113FPS 32,300 PSI (Maximum Load)
Your round nose bullets will be longer bullets than the hollow points, so be sure to start your tests at the starting loads and slowly work up into mid-range. ---maybe 4.7 grains

Hope this makes sense.

Its way awkward, and a real slow down if you are measuring powder for each load. I, like the OP am using the Lee pro auto disc. Every so often, instead of seating the bullet, I just remove the case filled with the powder load and dump it on the pan. Put brass back in the turret press and continue. In a few seconds I glance at the scale and I can see how it feeds. During any pause, I dump the scale pan back in the powder hopper, replace the pan and continue. Since the scale is at eye level I can tell from the press location if its level,

But measuring every load for every bullet, like you said is accurate but a royal pain.

Russellc

 

[RussellC]

Welcome Tex, You have received a lot of good advice here and even excited the "excitable" folks. I found some SR7625 at a local LGS yesterday. Never having used it I just grabbed one pound. Came home and started working up 9mm loads using xtreme 115gr RN bullet (downloaded IMR data first). Trying for a light load. Results. 4.0 grains would not cycle my S&W MP Pro w/5 in bbl. 4.2 grains worked fine and had light recoil. COAL was 1.090 to 1.115, CCI SP Primers. The stuff meters great and I did call and reserved another pound. Although I did flinch at the $32.95 price tag! Enjoy your new hobby and proceed with caution. Check and double check have kept me (and my guns)safe for over 20 years.

If there is more, grab it. Good pistol powder, but its on their discontinue list.

Russellc