Hunting Scope vs. My Leupold "tactical"

[jerseycraig]

The question basically is if I like my "tactical" mil dot Leupold scope when shooting targets, can I put that same scope on my Kimber hunting rifle? Hunting scopes seem to be zeroed at 200 with a duplex reticle and do your Kentucky Windage/hold over if you range the deer out further. But I am used to ranging, milling, shooting. This will not be as easy with a traditional hunting scope. So my question is to you experienced hunters; If the "tactical" scope is what I'm used to and I am accurate with it, can I put that on my hunting rifle rather than the traditional hunting scope or is that not cool? (not really sure if anyone would even notice?) The other option would be the hunting scope with the Boone&Crocket reticle but i just don't see how anything is as accurate as milling a target with the correct ballistic information. Thank you. Craig

 

[slowr1der]

Sure you can, and it's what many guys do that use their rifle for long range shooting. I think the reason you don't see this more is many guys that have hunting rigs, don't want to spend that much on a scope for it.

 

[jerseycraig]

thanks. You know it's the answer i had in my head, but it helps hearing someone else say it to, especially with the Leupold Mark4 price tags. I just love training myself to mill according to the range and wind. and if that's what i feel would make the most effective and humane shot on a deer than why not use that scope right? Thanks again.

 

[we are not amused]

I don't see a problem. Use what works for you.

When I was younger, (and didn't need bifocals) I used the iron military sights that were original on my 30-40 Krag carbine. I was only shooting from between 25 to 100 yards,( rarely the further distance).

 

[slowr1der]

Yep, that being said there are much much better options than the Leupold Mark 4. I'd look into the SWFA SS scopes, and Nightforces in that price range.

I've seriously considered a 5-20x50 SWFA SS for my main hunting rifle, but I haven't put one on there yet.


Also, for much more info, check out SnipersHide.com

No offense to anyone here, but I've found very few people on here to be knowledgeable about "tactical" type optics. Snipers Hide is the place to be for knowledge on scopes of this nature, and the Leupolds aren't highly sought after for the most part.

 

[esheato]

I've got MOA Nightforces and a mil S&B...and I have a Leupold with the B&C reticle on my hunting stick. Works great for my handloads out to 500...and if it's further than that, I'll use my precision rig with a scope I can dial properly.

 

[jerseycraig]

response

slowr1dr: what is an 5-20x50 SWFA SS?

esheato: I was thinking to solve this just get the Boone&Crocket. Seems like a damn good reticle for a hunting rifle. I use .308 win on all my rifles. Do you think i would get accurate enough with the Boone and Crocket? Seems like they just give you two "triangles" to set to and hope your bullet drop matches one of those two?

 

[esheato]

Yeah, you got it. Easier if you're handloading as you can load to the spec, but if not, you just need to be selective (bullet weight and velocity) in the ammo you purchase.

All these roads (MOA, mil, Leupold B&C) lead to the same place...it's just the path that you take to get there that's different.

If you're comfortable and confident with mils, by all means do it. The last thing you should do is integrate a new method prior to hunting season unless you're going to practice to proficiency with it.

I have MOA and mils and use the Boone & Crockett because it's easy and once it's set, I don't have to worry about it. In other words, no dialing in the field. Get the range via rangefinder, hold appropriately with no guesswork and pull the trigger.

Here is the Leupold data for the B&C: Ballistic Aiming System Supplement

Look at the bottom of page 1...Group A, B, C and the respective aiming point (small or large triangle) on the power selector ring.

Now find a bullet and velocity similar to yours (or handload to one of them)...then go up to the group name...zero at that distance. Because the scope is second focal plane (Link, See Riflescopes and Reticles, Q 8 and 9)., your zoom setting has to be on a specific setting (usually max power) for the trajectory to match the reticle spacing.

As far as accuracy, I can hit soda cans at 400 with my 260 hunting rig 4/4 times. That's plenty good enough for deer in my book.

Proof.

Most of my hunting was very open (was in Northern California when I bought the gun). HS Precision lightweight sporter in 260 Rem, 4.5-14x40 with B&C reticle.

EDIT: what is an 5-20x50 SWFA SS?

SWFA Super Sniper Optics

 

[MtnCreek]

If you're hunting in open country, go for it. I've used rifles w/ min. 5 and 6 power settings in the Southeastern woods and getting on target can be a little tough sometimes.

 

[esheato]

Exactly....and having the scope on 14x to make the reticle operate properly would be even worse!

Like I said, my hunting was mostly open country hence the 4.5-14x

 

[jerseycraig]

esheato, thank you very much! all of you have been helpful. I'll be using .308 Win 168 grain so that sets me at the "small triangle". There are a lot of choices and i guess with practice they all lead to the same place as you have mentioned. (Duplex reticle with CDS dial, Boone&Crocket reticle, MOA/mil, or good old fashioned Duplex reticle with Kentucky Windage.) If I knew Boone&Crocket would be accurate with my .308 win 168 grn. I'd choose that without hesitation. Otherwise I think I am going to go for the MOA/mil that I'm used to and just hope I have the time in the woods to adjust a few clicks here and there. Thanks again guys. craig

 

[jerseycraig]

One more question esheato; The small or big triangle. Is that the same dial as the zoom? so if I'm set on the small triangle but then zoom to 14x does that take me off the small triangle or o those work independently of each other? thank you.

 

[esheato]

The triangles are marks on the zoom ring itself. Because it's a SFP scope, it requires you to be at a certain zoom level to match the reticle spacing to the image. You can increase zoom power to make sure that deer is worthy of a bullet but zoom back to get your drops correct. Think of FFP and SFP like this, when adjusting the zoom ring:

FFP, reticle and image zoom in and out together.
SFP, only the image zooms in and out.

I had a buddy look at the CDS system, and while it'll work just fine if you're a one load guy, once you change a load, you need a new dial (if you want the distance markings to match your actual distances)....whereas with a standard mil/MOA scope, you just recalculate the ballistics and dial to a different point on the knob. Same buddy shoots long range with me...and he was super hesitant to buy mil/MOA because he didn't understand it. I finally talked him into it and now he loves it. He can change load specs as he wishes...just re-chrono, calculate with a trajectory program and then shoot. You can even get an app on your phone to calculate it on the fly in the field.

I am constantly in load development, always tweaking something, so it's much easier to just do standard mil/MOA. I don't have a preference either...they both do the same thing. Mils do traverse less distance on the knob though.

Here in Texas, you can bait. So your deer feeder is 300 yards away...while waiting for the deer, dial your distance and then shoot it when it comes in to eat. Easy.

Ed

 

[jerseycraig]

well that pretty much 'seals the deal', I think I'll just stick to mil/MOA. maybe get my usual M3 1/4 MOA set up but order a CDS dial for it if my dad or someone should want to use the rifle, (just to make it a little easier for them.) I gotta say I'm jealous you live in Texas. I absolutely love it there. Been there 4 times. Take care and thanks again.