I have lots of questions.....
- Thread starter HOODLUM
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beatledog7
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Yes, sorry to flub that.
I have a Lee bulge buster kit, and it does work. It is essentially a Lee FCD from which one removes the crimping sleeve and just forces the empty brass completely through. For every 100 .40 brass that won't pass a case gauge after sizing, it will fix about 90.
My recommendation is if you do not have dies for the semi-auto rifle cartridges, buy the small base resizing dies. If you already have resizing dies, the standard dies will probably do you well. Just be aware of the body sizing issue if you have chambering problems.
The issue is, particularly with 223 Rem/5.56 NATO is there are a number of different chambers out there and they vary a little here and there. With cases not fired in your rifle, you may encounter chambering problems with standard resizing dies. The problem is mostly a sum of tolerances in the die and chambers that the body of the case is not resized enough.
If you plan on buying once fired cases from unknown sources or pick up cases at the range from unknown sources, you would be well served to use small base resizing dies.
If you start with new cases and/or use cases only fired in your rifle, standard resizing dies would be fine.
Again, if you do not have dies already, just buy the small base dies and be done with it. Case life will not suffer due to the perceived extra working of the case. Chances are, the case will fail for other reasons or be lost before over working the body of the case will come into play.
Why take a chance of chambering problems if you do not have to.
Hope this helps.
Well then you will here from all those Glocksters that say they do all the time
BUT, if you have a Lone Wolf barrel then you will have no bulge and you also can run lead as they have conventional rifling and supported chambers.
The Glock bulge is usually only a problem with the hotter rounds, I have plenty of range brass shot from Glocks and there is no serious bulges. Once fired from a supported chamber like a Sig it is back to normal. The problem occurs when the same brass is used over and over and it gets weak.
Long story short if you want to avoid all these issues, get a after market barrel, problems solved.
Potatohead
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Hey what am i looking for in Greylings picture? They all look the same. Where is the unsupported part on the Glock barrels? Im a noob, obviously
david bachelder
Member
"Is it a Gen 4? I pretty much see (or should I say don't see) the same thing as you do. Very little if any bulge. Where I do see it,is in the "other" once fired that I reload."
I have no idea. It's fourteen years old. Does that answer the question?
I have no idea. It's fourteen years old. Does that answer the question?
david bachelder
Member
"Hey what am i looking for in Greylings picture? They all look the same. Where is the unsupported part on the Glock barrels? Im a noob, obviously."
Holding the barrel upright, the bulge (unsupported chamber area) will be at the 6:00 position.
Holding the barrel upright, the bulge (unsupported chamber area) will be at the 6:00 position.
greyling22
Member
see the area in red? see how there is more case showing in the older barrel than on the lone wolf barrel? especially at the 6 position?that is where the case tends to bulge or bust. it is unsupported or un-surrounded by the chamber, thus will swell out further than the rest of the case because the chamber keeps the case to a limited size. Does that make sense? It's late and I don't trust my brain anymore......
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greyling22
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my google-fu reveals:
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=16&t=546878
http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...-ballistics/56054-winchester-ranger-ammo.html
Looks like there are better bullets, but in times like these I guess you take what you can get.
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=16&t=546878
http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...-ballistics/56054-winchester-ranger-ammo.html
Looks like there are better bullets, but in times like these I guess you take what you can get.
Only precaution I can think of is
Remington recommends 5 1/2 magnum primer for 40SW, 357 SIG, 357 mag rather than the normal 1 1/2 SPP.
S&B recommends their magnum SPP for those calibers, as well.
I understand this has more to do with the strength of the primer cups, rather than how hot the primer is.
And I've heard it said that Wolf/Tula regular SRP are not always hot enough to light ball powders in 223. They're pretty scarce, anyways. Wolf/Tula 223 primers and magnum small rifle primers seem to be the norm, and those are both hotter than their regular SRP.
HOODLUM, I have some advice on reloading the .40s&w. If you use picked up range brass, stick to the lighter pressure reloads. You have no idea what that brass was originally loaded to and what pistol shot it. .40 brass is so plentiful at any indoor range, that any brass I pick up that has been "Glocked" gets tossed during sorting. In my opinion, buying some special die to remove a bulge is asking for trouble. Guess where that brass is likely to fail? I have loaded just over 7K 40s&w and never used any special sizing die and have yet to have a single issue with my reloads.
I have the infamous 2'nd Gen G23. Factory ammo shot in my G23 usually get's Glocked, and I won't reload that brass. My reloads do not cause any bulges, even with my unsupported chamber. However you mention you have a lone wolf barrel. The extra case support is comforting AND you can shoot cheaper lead bullets. That's a win win. Have fun and be safe...
I have the infamous 2'nd Gen G23. Factory ammo shot in my G23 usually get's Glocked, and I won't reload that brass. My reloads do not cause any bulges, even with my unsupported chamber. However you mention you have a lone wolf barrel. The extra case support is comforting AND you can shoot cheaper lead bullets. That's a win win. Have fun and be safe...
Potatohead
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thanks
Potatohead
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Great. thanks everyone. no wonder i couldnt see it, i do now though
Greyling22, I know where to buy rounds ready to shoot, I'm looking for the actual bullets. And as far as how 'good' the ammunition is or how well it performs, almost everybody has an opinion and opinions are like buttholes, everyone has one and most of them stink. This ammo has never ever failed to fire, feed, or eject in any weapon that I have ran it in. I have never had ANY problem with it in any way. To me, knowing that the round is going to do exactly what it is supposed to do everytime I pull the trigger is worth more to me than some perception of what a bullet does better than a different one. If someone shows me a person that would be ok getting shot with a ranger instead of a gold dot, then I'll change my mind.
Absolutely nothing wrong with Lee dies. However, if you have not yet purchased dies for rifle, I would use Cfullgraffs suggestion to purchase small-base dies the first time around. For 223, I like Dillon's carbide die sizing. It is small-based AND has a carbide ring to help with sizing, even though you still need a bit of lube. But most of all, it has a built-in case extractor.
RealGun
Member
I found that I needed Lee locknuts because the Hornady locknuts were too bulky to pack into that 4 hole setup. The Hornady decapping/sizing die works fine but with a Lee locknut.
LiveLife
Member
Do you know what kind of ammo Glock factory team and countless other Glock match shooters use every week all across the world? Yes, reloads.the count said:
You can shoot lead bullets in factory Glock barrels with some consideration, mainly inspecting the barrel for fouling build up every 200-300 rounds - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8854631#post8854631HOODLUM said:
Glock chambers are generous (especially earlier generations) with larger mouths of chambers and some brands of dies (like Dillon and RCBS david bachelder posted) with larger radius on the sizer bottom won't fully resize brass fired in Glocks all the way down to the case base. I use both RCBS and Lee carbide dies for 40S&W and Lee dies have smaller radius on the carbide sizer ring and will resize further down on the cases fired in Glocks.HOODLUM said:
For resizing dies that won't fully resize cases to the base, push-through resizing with Redding G-Rx (Glock Rx) and Lee Factory Crimp Dies (FCD) will ensure the bulged cases will fully chamber in any other brand barrels, even in tighter chambered match barrels.
This comment is not for normal case wall expansion but over-expansion of case base. The reason why Lee Bulge Buster has that warning is that if a case is overstretched in an unsupported barrel, thinning of the case wall thickness can occur and no amount of push-through resizing will fix the thinned case wall to make the wall thicker. Repeated thinning of case wall and push-through resizing will weaken the case wall and may lead to case failure/rupture.
Personally, I would be more concerned with bullet setback increasing chamber pressures to over max levels - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=714981
Good post. If you reload mixed range brass, you don't know the reload history and the true condition of the brass. The cases could have been overstretched and case wall thinned several times and push-through resized and polished to look nice again. Unless you cut the case in half, you won't be able to tell with your eyes how thin the case wall is at the case base.warhwkbb said:
With mixed range brass, especially for 40S&W, I prefer not to use full-power or max charges. Instead, I use mid-to-high range load data of W231/HP-38. When I switched my match caliber to 40S&W, using lower pressure target loads to not bulge the case with mixed range brass was one of many reasons why I chose to use W231/HP-38.
I use Lone Wolf 40S&W barrels for G22/G23/G27 and 40-9 conversion barrels. I consider the tighter chambers and fully supported chamber mouths cheap insurance. I shoot a lot and being able to shoot lead bullets without fouling build up for easier cleaning saves significant amount of money over jacketed/plated bullets.
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The CCI military primers are magnum strength. See chart linked below and read notes at the bottom. "The 41's and 34's contain Magnum priming mix and should be treated as such."
http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primer_chart.htm
As long as you DEVELOP YOUR LOADS USING THE MILITARY PRIMERS and back off when you get pressure signs you'll be OK. Do not load to max or near max load specs that call for regular primers.
I use the CCI mil primers in every rifle load that I load regardless of the type of rifle it will be used in. Start low and work up slowly til you hit your accuracy node. The specs normally give a starting load and a max load. In AR's I normally start getting pressure signs BEFORE I reach the max load listed in the book.
After over 30 yrs loading I have not once found benefit in loading hot in the pursuit of more velocity. I find the most accurate load I can in each gun and combination of components. Once that accuracy node is found, going above or below that load will result in accuracy degrading. A slow hit is better than a screaming hot miss every time. Sometimes the most accurate load will be pretty fast as well and that's good as long as you do not have pressure problems.
For what it's worth (and all my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it) I shot lots of lead bullets through all 3 of my 1st generation Glocks for years before I heard about the leading problems. Once I heard about it, I kept a closer watch on barrel conditions but still haven't experienced the dreaded conditons put forth on the internet. Maybe my bullets are harder or I don't push them as hard-I don't know.
Just don't be skeered but don't be stupid either and soon you'll be developing loads for your guns that outperform factory ammo.
You'll also have an addiction that's harder to quit than crystal meth....
http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primer_chart.htm
As long as you DEVELOP YOUR LOADS USING THE MILITARY PRIMERS and back off when you get pressure signs you'll be OK. Do not load to max or near max load specs that call for regular primers.
I use the CCI mil primers in every rifle load that I load regardless of the type of rifle it will be used in. Start low and work up slowly til you hit your accuracy node. The specs normally give a starting load and a max load. In AR's I normally start getting pressure signs BEFORE I reach the max load listed in the book.
After over 30 yrs loading I have not once found benefit in loading hot in the pursuit of more velocity. I find the most accurate load I can in each gun and combination of components. Once that accuracy node is found, going above or below that load will result in accuracy degrading. A slow hit is better than a screaming hot miss every time. Sometimes the most accurate load will be pretty fast as well and that's good as long as you do not have pressure problems.
For what it's worth (and all my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it) I shot lots of lead bullets through all 3 of my 1st generation Glocks for years before I heard about the leading problems. Once I heard about it, I kept a closer watch on barrel conditions but still haven't experienced the dreaded conditons put forth on the internet. Maybe my bullets are harder or I don't push them as hard-I don't know.
Just don't be skeered but don't be stupid either and soon you'll be developing loads for your guns that outperform factory ammo.
You'll also have an addiction that's harder to quit than crystal meth....
I understand from message #2 that you have bolt rifles chambered in 223 and also some rifles chambered in 5.56. You cannot safely fire 5.56 ammo in a .223 chamber. It is covered in all good reloading manuals.
There is also a difference in 308 and 7.62 chambers, I believe, but you need to verify this.
I reviewed the thread and did not see that these safety items had been mentioned.
Terry
kerreckt
Member
Quote:
"There's not a 357Sig case that's ever been a .40S&W case. As was said above, the .40 cases are two short to be formed into a safe-to-use 357Sig case."
Well, in fact there are. I have about 50 that are headstamped .40S&W. All factory ammo.The odd thing about absolute statements are all the exceptions.
"There's not a 357Sig case that's ever been a .40S&W case. As was said above, the .40 cases are two short to be formed into a safe-to-use 357Sig case."
Well, in fact there are. I have about 50 that are headstamped .40S&W. All factory ammo.The odd thing about absolute statements are all the exceptions.
Thanks for the safety concerns guys, I do know the differences in .223 and 5.56 and from what I have read, the .308 and 7.62 are basically interchangeable as per SAMMI. I have only .223 cases for my .223 and etc.... please keep info coming for me. I search and read here and other places, but as you guys know, sometimes this leads to more questions than answers.....
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