I need some help High Roaders

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ljnowell

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Its not often I come to ask questions, but I could really use some help. I finally got my first AR15, a Rock River Arms. Now I need to reload for it. I plan on using my single stage, as opposed to using the progressive or turret press. Here come the questions though:

1. Small rifle primers are a no-no, right? I seem to remember reading that you were supposed to use specific primers for an AR, is there truth to this?

2. How about a cheap source for bullets? I am not reloading competition ammo, but I do some shooting at 100 yards and like to plink for the gong thats set at 235 at my club.

3. Powder recommendations? I use a lot of alliant, but I am not married to it. I prefer something that is economical though.

4. Rifle dies are 2 die sets. I guess there is no flaring step, right?

Any help guys, I would appreciate it. This is a whole new world to me, as I usually load for handguns only.
 
1. I use WSR primers with no problems, but they do make specific "harder" primers such as the Wolf small rifle "mag" primer and the CCI 41 primers.

2. Wideners etc. Just have to shop around these days.

3. H335 is hard to beat, but 2230, BLC-2, Tac, etc work. Lots of good choices in 5.56/.223

4. Yes. Two dies. The "expander" is on the decapper in the sizer. It expands the case neck as it comes back out of the case after sizing.
 
lj-

I have two RRA's - both Elite CAR15's.

I use LC brass, varget and 4895 powder, smk 69's and yes, CCI 400 primers. 1800 rounds so far, and no problems. I load on a Dillon 1050 for the AR's, so I can't help on the flaring question - mine is done at the powder charging stage. I usually just buy the SMK's at local gun shows - but Midway has/or had a sale on 'blemished' bullets recently, but I missed out on it. My RRA's seem to be pretty tolerant of whatever you put down them - 52, 55, 62, & 69 gr. bullets. I've loaded some 68 Hornadys, but haven't tested them yet.

I think you'll like the 2 stage RRA trigger. Enjoy that rifle, it's a keeper.

-tc
 
Well, I use CCI #400 primers, Winchester virgin brass, Ramshot X-Terminator
powder, and Nosler 50 grain ballistic tip bullets for plinking, 100 yard targets,
etc. in my 16" Colt Match Target Competition H-Bar; and also in my Rock
River Arms 16" Operator Elite~! :scrutiny: ;)
 
On the primer question - I agree with the others that CCI primers are a good choice, in fact most any SR primer would be ok with the firm exception of Federal. Federal primers are too soft for that application.
 
CCI benchrest have been working fine for me, because that is all I could find at the time.

Like I said ... no problems with slam fires or any other problems, just more $$ than I would like to put into the load, but if you want to shoot, you do what you have to. Supplies are getting better now ....

Jimmy K
 
Thanks for the input everyone! Looks like I will be fine to use the Winchester and CCI primers that I can source locally for $28/K. I am going to try some H335 or some Reloader15 if I can find it locally. If I have to drive I will just buy both to try. I guess as far as bullets I will try to get what I can find cheap somewhere. I wonder if my Autodisk powder measure will need the double disk kit to do these? I normally use an adjustable charge bar, and it goes up pretty high, I guess that will be something to try and see.
 
I wonder if my Autodisk powder measure will need the double disk kit to do these? I normally use an adjustable charge bar, and it goes up pretty high, I guess that will be something to try and see.
Click to expand...

Well, according to my charge sheet that comes with the auto disk, the 1.57 hole, the largest one, lists at 24.3 for H-335. It's close to max for that powder and 60 grain bullets. Those cavities are usually listed heavy, meaning they actually throw lighter charges. The only way to know is to try it, weigh some charges. The adjustable charge bar wouldn't even come close.
 
Bullet choice will depend on the twist of your barrel. Some barrels do not stabalize a light bullet. I have a 1 in 7 twist that needs a heavier bullet than my others. I have had great success using Win 748 powder with all of my 223 rifles. Good luck and good shooting.
 
I have a turret press, and use the lee disks. To be able to better control the sizes of the charges for reloading for rifle, I got this for my Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure:

Lee Double Disk Kit - 90195 - $14.98

This kit raises the hopper so you can stack two disks. This not only doubles the capacity of the disks but it makes very fine adjustments possible. Most powders can be adjusted up or down .1 grain with different combinations of disks. Complete listing of combinations, 4 extra disks, screws and risers are included.

I use H335, CCI Small Rifle Primers, and Remington bulk 55gr bullets for plinking.
 
Wideners has 55g milspec bt bullets that are fairly cheap and shoot great. I bought 5000 for $380. I use AA 2230 powder burns good and meters real good (ball powder). I am using Wolf 223 primers $25.50/1000 from Powder Valley. I use the Lee Pro Disk with the double disk set 24.1g is 2 .82 disk and shoots real nice out of my M&P AR.
 
ljnowell welcome to the EBR club.

1. Small rifle primers are a no-no, right? I seem to remember reading that you were supposed to use specific primers for an AR, is there truth to this?
Click to expand...

I have heard there is a chance of a slam fire if you don't use primers made for a AR. I have only been loading for my Rock River ( nice choice by the way ) for three years and have not had any problems with Win and Magtech SR primers.

2. How about a cheap source for bullets? I am not reloading competition ammo, but I do some shooting at 100 yards and like to plink for the gong thats set at 235 at my club.
Click to expand...

I havn't bought bullets for a couple of years so I'm out of touch on where and how much. I have been shooting Hornady 55 grain bulk FMJ bullets. They shoot good and can usually be found at a good price. Do yourself a favor and make sure they are boat tail bullets, you will thank yourself when it comes time to seat them.

3. Powder recommendations? I use a lot of alliant, but I am not married to it. I prefer something that is economical though.
Click to expand...

IMO it's awful hard to beat H335 and W748. They both meter great in my pro auto disk measure.
 
Again, thanks everybody! Here is another good one: My barrel has a 1 in 9 twist. Should I be looking for heavier or lighter bullets?
Click to expand...

9" twist will stabilize just about anything, but not the super heavies. 60gr would be perfect:)

From Shilen barrels

.224 CF
- 7" for bullets heavier than 70gr.
- 8" for bullets heavier than 70gr.
- 8"* Ratchet rifled 4 groove
- 9" for bullets up to 70gr.
- 12: for bullets up to 63gr.
- 14" for bullets up to 55gr.
- 14"* Ratchet rifled 4 groove
- 15"* for bullets up to 55gr. driven 4,100 pfs or more
- 16:* for bullets up to 55gr. driven 4,300 fps or more
 
I use CCI & WSR primers with 100% success. No misfires, no slamfires, nothing but performance "as advertised." I also use W748 and H335, among several others, 335 giving the accuracy edge with 55 gr Hornady FMJs, and 748 with others. You have to try them in your rifle, and these aren't the only powders by any means, just some I use with good results. I check out several of the online dealers, Grafs, Natchez Shooter Supplies, Midway, Widener's, and others for whatever I'm looking for at the time for the best deal. Shop around & you'll find what you need. I do like Grafs for having one low handling charge (around $5) and no shipping charges: what you see is what you pay.

I use mostly RCBS & Hornady dies, but I have Lee, Lyman, Redding, Pacific, Herter's and some custom sets I have never heard of before, and they all work. If you get good performance out of them, they're acceptable. If I find a set doesn't do right, I don't use it - simple as that.
 
I use Winchester Small rifle primers, H335 Powder and bulk 55 grain FMJ projectiles from Golden west and Hornady. Would recommend that after you purchase the two die rifle set of dies that you alos purchase a Lee factory crimp, takes the guess work out of the crimp. Also the Lee Case Lenght Gauge and Cutter to trim your brass.
 
When I crimp .223, I like to give a light roll crimp if the bullets have cannelures that are consistent. For cheap bulk bullets where the cannelures are all over the place like the Winchester 55 Gr FMJ-BT's I have are, I like to give a good firm taper crimp.

Crimp pics
 
There is certainly lots of good advice here, thehighroad.org does not disappoint. I have learned a lot and I feel I am just about ready to start. How bad is it to use mixed headstamp brass when doing 223? I plan on tumbling them clean, depriming and resizing, then trimming, as they will be once fired. Then chamfer and tumble again. Then reprime, charge, seat a bullet and crimp as required by the bullet. Does this sound like a good plan?
 
That's the process I use, ljnowell. The mixed headstamp brass shouldn't be a problem as long as they are in spec and used for plinking loads. For match, hunting, or target work, it would be better to have the same headstamp brass for consistency.
 
I load on a lee pro 1000 and use the adjustable charge bar.
barrel 16" 1-9 twist
CCI Small Rifle Primers
IMR 4198 powder
55-62 gr projectiles remington bulk from midway usa

very happy with the results
 
How bad is it to use mixed headstamp brass when doing 223?
Click to expand...
I do it all the time for plinking loads with cheap bullets that are not going to give good accuracy anyway. I make sure my charge is safe with the heaviest cases I'll be using. I like to sort the LC by date when I have enough of one date. That way the weighs will be much closer, and so will your consistency. Just remember, when shooting cheap bulk 55 Gr FMJ-BT bullets, they won't shoot very well anyway, so a bunch of "match prep" (weighing etc) on cases is totally wasted.
 
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