nettlle
Contributing Member
I have a 22 cal Smith and Wesson revolver I inherited and am trying to find some information on it. I think it's a K22 but not sure. Is they an online serach engine for Smith and Wesson revolvers?
Identifying a Smith and Wesson revolver
- Thread starter nettlle
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tubeshooter
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Not that I know of right offhand.
Not sure how actively it is monitored, but try here:
Probably get a reliable answer sooner than you would just poking around on the internet. Of course pictures will help.
Not sure how actively it is monitored, but try here:
Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers
This going to be a thread for those who are looking for a date of manufacture for their S&W revolvers. We'd need to know : a) caliber b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle) c) grips shape (round or square) d) number of shots/cylinder bores e) type of sights. f) serial number, and if there is...
www.thehighroad.org
Probably get a reliable answer sooner than you would just poking around on the internet. Of course pictures will help.
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
Couple of pics.
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
I also asked on the Smith and Wesson forum and got a quick reply. It's a K22 Masterpiece.
tubeshooter
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Nice, should be a good shooter.
I could clearly see at least 4 screws; can't see the front of the trigger guard...
I could clearly see at least 4 screws; can't see the front of the trigger guard...
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
There is a screw on the front of the trigger guard.
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
It is a good shooter. Unfortunately it wasn't well cared for and the bluing isn't the best. Never the less I am tickled to have it!
Riomouse911
Member
Not a bad little inheritance gift, congrats.
The left side of the muzzle kind of looks like it may be nicked up pretty good in the picture. How do the crown and the bore look at the muzzle? I hope they’re OK, these guns can be amazing shooters.
Let us know how it shoots when you get a chance to take it out.
Stay safe.
The left side of the muzzle kind of looks like it may be nicked up pretty good in the picture. How do the crown and the bore look at the muzzle? I hope they’re OK, these guns can be amazing shooters.
Let us know how it shoots when you get a chance to take it out.
Stay safe.
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
Mechanically it's almost perfect. Muzzle isn't nicked but it looks like these were rust dots on the muzzle and someone tried to remove the rust. The barrel isn't pitted it's just polka dotted.
NIGHTLORD40K
Member
A K22 makes a wonderful heirloom. The imperfections just give it character......
bangswitch
Member
I saw your post on the S&W forum and also replied. Nice revolver and even with the cosmetic issues a nice collectible . If you plan to shoot it a lot, I'd recommend another set of stocks (grips) for it. Those walnut diamond magnas are worth a couple hundred dollars all by themselves even with the wear they have. No point in getting them beat up. Depending on your hand size, you might want to try a set of Target stocks; they are larger. Altamont makes a nice aftermarket grip that is relatively inexpensive, fits well and looks great, with many styles. Any K-frame square butt grip will work. Personally, I like the magnas fine for that revolver. I have a very similar model, only chambered for .22 Magnum and not as old as that one, but internally almost identical. The trigger guard screw went away around 1961, and the screw up by the hammer was changed to a pin sometime later. The diamond grips went away in 1968 (one reason they are so valuable), replaced by similar grips without a diamond (see my M48-4 picture below). The K-22 started production in 1946 and original production went through 1995. The barrel was changed to a full underlug in 1990.
Here's your revolver's cousin, the K-22 Masterpiece Magnum Rimfire, also called the M48:
As for an online search engine for S&W, the two S&W forums are as good as you'll find when looking for info. Lots of serious collectors and somebody will know about whatever model you need info for. If you like S&W guns, find a copy of The Standard Catalog of S&W, which is where I got the information I provided and is the go-to printed information source most people use. The Catalog has all guns manufactured by S&W, revolvers, semiautos and long guns.
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Just a note about that: I believe the top side plate screw is #5 and the front of trigger guard is #4. So if there are 4 on the side then it will be a 5-screw. It's when you only see three on the side, on older models, you have to then look to see if it's a 3 or 4 screw.
tubeshooter
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One of the screws I saw is in the front (strap) of the grip.
Thanks for letting me know; I am not as well-versed on it as others are.
Thanks for letting me know; I am not as well-versed on it as others are.
Riomouse911
Member
Good advice about the original grips.
I did the same with all of my older S&W revolvers, replacing the original grips from lighter-kicking calibers with Thai wooden grips off Amazon-eBay and harder kickers with synthetics. These are some of the .38’s;
Stay safe.
bangswitch
Member
That is correct. The first screw to go is the top side plate screw, then the one in front of the trigger guard. On S&W rimfire revolvers, a pin will remain where the top side plate screw once was, as it holds the floating firing pin in place, unlike the centerfire revolvers which had a hammer nose type firing pin and the top screw became totally unnecessary. Initially it helped hold the side plate in position, but the side plate was modified with a small tab that did the same thing.
The screw in front of the trigger guard once held the spring for the cylinder stop, and the design was revised, making the screw also unnecessary.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
There is a sticky thread dedicated to this at the top of the Revolver forum.
If there is one, a model # would help. If it's there it will be on the yoke/crane when you open the cylinder.
A serial # will also be very helpful for more info.
If there is one, a model # would help. If it's there it will be on the yoke/crane when you open the cylinder.
A serial # will also be very helpful for more info.
bangswitch
Member
OP's revolver is old enough that it is pre-model number, but it would be the same as a M17.
OP
OP
nettlle
Contributing Member
Nice bunch of folks on the S&W forum. I will be visiting them again. This is my late father-in-laws gun and he gave it to me about 25 years ago. I liked the feel of the action so much I kept it. Never really had time to play with it much but I retired in the spring and now I can play with it a little. The original grips are a little rough. Looks like someone used them for a hammer. I have large hands and your suggestion for target grips is a good one. The factory grips are so small in my hands there is nothing to hold on to. It needs a good cleaning. I'm not sure how far I can strip it down nor how too. Any information there would be a big help.
sonora
Member
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You should. You a five screw model and diamond stocks. They are fine shooters.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
The K-22 was first produced from 1931 until 1940.. This version was called the K-22 Outdoorsman. This one shipped in 1935. Note the lack of a rib on top of the barrel. Note too the tiny screw for adjusting the rear sight for windage. There were two screws, one on either side. One screw was loosened and the other screw tightened to push the rear sight blade to one side or the other, This K-22 is wearing its original service grips.
The Pre-War K-22 Masterpiece was only made from 1940 - 1941, only 1067 were produced, so they are quite rare. the Pre-War K-22 used the modern micrometer click rear sight, with one large screw on the right side.
This is a Post War K-22 Masterpiece that shipped in 1950. This model was first produced in 1946, up until 1957 when the name was changed to Model 17. Notice the large windage adjustment screw on the rear sight. Notice this model has a narrow rib on top of the barrel. Later, the rib was the full width of the barrel. This one has a target hammer. This hammer is different than the hammer on the OP's K-22, his has the 'speed hammer' which makes it a little bit older than this one.
This is a Model 17-3. I bought it brand-spanky new in 1975. Notice the different profile of the hammer, and it has the wide barrel rib. Notice there is no taper to the barrel, it is the same width for its entire length. The side plate screw up near the hammer was deleted by this time,so was the screw in front of the trigger guard, making it a Three Screw S&W.
The K-22 was first produced from 1931 until 1940.. This version was called the K-22 Outdoorsman. This one shipped in 1935. Note the lack of a rib on top of the barrel. Note too the tiny screw for adjusting the rear sight for windage. There were two screws, one on either side. One screw was loosened and the other screw tightened to push the rear sight blade to one side or the other, This K-22 is wearing its original service grips.
The Pre-War K-22 Masterpiece was only made from 1940 - 1941, only 1067 were produced, so they are quite rare. the Pre-War K-22 used the modern micrometer click rear sight, with one large screw on the right side.
This is a Post War K-22 Masterpiece that shipped in 1950. This model was first produced in 1946, up until 1957 when the name was changed to Model 17. Notice the large windage adjustment screw on the rear sight. Notice this model has a narrow rib on top of the barrel. Later, the rib was the full width of the barrel. This one has a target hammer. This hammer is different than the hammer on the OP's K-22, his has the 'speed hammer' which makes it a little bit older than this one.
This is a Model 17-3. I bought it brand-spanky new in 1975. Notice the different profile of the hammer, and it has the wide barrel rib. Notice there is no taper to the barrel, it is the same width for its entire length. The side plate screw up near the hammer was deleted by this time,so was the screw in front of the trigger guard, making it a Three Screw S&W.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
DO NOT PRY OFF THE SIDE PLATE!!!!!. Remove the grips. Remove the Side Plate screw above the trigger guard. This will allow the cylinder assembly complete with the yoke (the hinge) to slide forward off the frame. Remove the other side plate screws. Keep track of which hole each screw came out of, be sure to replace them in the correct holes. Hold the frame with one hand and using the wooden handle of a hammer, strike the frame smartly where you see the red line in this photo. DO NOT USE METAL!! The hardwood handle of a hammer is fine for this. Keep your thumb on top of the side plate. It will rise as you strike the frame with the handle of the hammer. Keeping your thumb on the side plate will prevent it from falling to the floor as it comes loose.
This is what the mechanism will look like. This is actually my Model 17-3, but your K-22 Masterpiece should look the same. The long, slanted piece is the hammer block. It will be loose and you can pluck it out of the frame. I do not recommend taking your K-22 apart any further than this, it can be tricky. There may be hardened old oil inside. You can remove the old oil with a strong solvent. Then relubricate very lightly with a good gun oil such as Rem Oil. Just a few drops is all that is needed. That should be all you need to do. Put the cylinder assembly back in place. When reassembling the revolver be sure the hammer block is in the proper position. It should look just like this. The hammer block rides in a slot in the side plate, and must be positioned properly so it will enter the slot in the side plate. Other wise the side plate will bind and cannot be snugged down. Repostion the side plate. You can tap it home lightly with the butt of your hammer, not the metal end. Put the screws back in their proper holes, and carefully snug them down with a good set of gunsmith's hollow point screw drivers. Inexpensive hardware store screw drivers have tapered tips and can rise up when tightening the screws, causing them to jump out of the slot and bugger up the screw slots. Just snug down the screws, no need to over tighten them.
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