I'm thinking about starting to cast bullets for pistol calibers ???

[Bexar]

.38 special....357 mag...9mm....40SW...45ACP. The auto cartridges will be shot in polygonal rifled pistols and the revolver in Smiths. I am as rookie to this as I can be so anything you all can suggest is appreciated.

No need for anyone to answer all the questions. Any singular question input would be greatly appreciated too.

Some areas:

Powder selection.

Best mold make and style

Barrel leading

Lubrication

Gas checks

lead alloy content

casting safety

Thanks...Bexar

 

[40-82]

cast boolits

What you really need to do is look at the site called Cast boolits. Everything you could want to know about casting is there, and in much more detail than in any reference book that exists.

 

[TooManyToys]

LEE bullet molds are the least expensive molds out there, and many people are very happy with them.

 

[kcofohio]

Lyman and Lee both have detailed write-up about bullet casting, and of course the promote their products. Lyman Pistol & Revolver Handbook and Lee's Modern Reloading: Second Edition.
And yes, Cast Boolit forum seems to be very informative.

 

[kcofohio]

BTW, here is a link somebody on another thread posted:

A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

Looks useful.

 

[km101]

Check out the Castboolits website:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php

There many people there with lots of information and they are always willing to share. The best thing to do is start of by reading the "stickys" in the forums that interest you. This will answer most "newbie" questions. Then anything you are unclear about, ask. And check the "Swappin & Sellin" thread for molds, lead, gas checks, sizing equipment and such. There are a lot of needed materials and equipment for sale there.

Also a very good reference and great source for cast bullet loads is Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th Edition. It not only explains the process from raw material thru finished bullet, but gives you the load data to shoot it.

Good luck with your new project!

 

[grubbylabs]

Get the Lyman cast bullet book and visit the castboolits forum. Of course we have quite a few folks here as well that know their way around a mold.

Lee molds are nice starter molds. Easy to learn on and inexpensive. Those are the only factory molds I have bought. All the other molds I own are custom molds made by NOE and Accurate molds.

You need to start looking right away for lead. Learn all you can about gathering it and start ASAP.

 

[hartcreek]

I agree get the Lyman cast bullet book. I was cleaning my reloading bench and found that I had one from the fifties that came from an uncle.

Since you plan of shooting lead through a polygonal rifled firearm you will have to learn how to use powder coating.

 

[35 Whelen]

What you really need to do is look at the site called Cast boolits. Everything you could want to know about casting is there, and in much more detail than in any reference book that exists.

^^^^THIS^^^^ (but don't tell "blarby"!!) except the last part of that statement which I'm about to address.
And by ALL means, while you're waiting for your Lyman 49th Edition reloading manual to arrive, read From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners
. By the time you've finished the on-line version of this book, most of your questions will be answered. Those answers not found therein, can be found over at the Cast Boolit website.

35W

ETA- Some here think referring new bullet casters, or questions regarding bullet casting to the Cast Boolit site is wrong, and I couldn't disagree more. I make these referrals because in so many of the threads I've read here (and on other "general" firearms forums) on bullet casting, there exists a certain level of gross misinformation. Nothing dangerous that I've seen, mind you, just information that only adds to the confusion of bullet casting. I don't consider myself an expert by any stretch, but I do consider myself experienced. I personally have many years and tens of thousands of rounds of cast bullets fired, in competition, pleasure and hunting, under my belt and feel like I FINALLY have a handle on how to cast high quality bullets that provide a level of accuracy surpassed only in rifles when fired with high quality jacketed bullets. However, there's hardly a thread on this forum in which I try to assist someone, that another well meaning individual posts something contrary to what I and others have learned from these many years of casting and shooting cast bullets. Thus, my reason for referencing Cast Boolits. This is also not to say that there aren't experienced, knowledgeable bullet casters here, there certainly are and I've seen their contributions many times, but it only takes one "clod in the butter churn" to ruin the butter!

 

[RugerBob]

Do you have a source for getting lead?
I waited till I had a couple hundred pounds of wheel wieghts before I started. No sense in starting if you can't get lead at reasonable prices or free.

 

[kcofohio]

Missouri Bullet Co. offers 66 lbs. of 18 BHN lead for about $150 out the door. That would give you about 2500 bulllets on the average 180 gr. At least it would be somewhere to start until you find lead supplies and learn the recipes for hardness.

 

[243winxb]

Alloy must be available free or reasonably priced, no more than $1 per pound. If more, cheaper to buy bullets. Buying alloy will cost* about 9 cents per bullet. IMO, not worth it if buying alloy. http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/...stingalloy.htm Buy bullets ready made for same price. http://www.missouribullet.com

 

[floydster]

243 is correct, if alloy goes any higher in price it's is not worth getting into casting, however if you have a good source for lead and other alloy you will need it is a great money saving venture.
I have been casting for many years and it is getting to the point where it is getting very difficult to acuire a source for alloy.

 

[MichaelK]

Again, have to second what 243 states. The problem with wheel-weights today is that many states are gradually phasing out lead, and mandating zinc or iron weights instead.

The very first thing you learn in casting is you DON'T want to get zinc in your batch. But, zinc is easy to separate out, because it floats on top without melting at 650F and has a metallic ting to it instead of dull thud.

In casting, you get what you pay for. I've basically thrown out just about every piece of Lee equipment I've ever bought, and replaced it with more expensive Lyman or RCBS ones. Quality just isn't there with Lee products.

I use a Lyman lubesizer to make my bullets .001" over bore diameter. I measure that by pushing a cast, unsized bullet down the barrel with a wooden dowel.

You can buy lubricant, but I make an excellent lube out of 50:50 moly lithium grease and beeswax. Melt a weighted amount of grease into a throw-away pot with a tight lid. Heat on a camping stove OUTSIDE till it melts. Slap on the lid quickly when the very flammable grease catches fire. Once liquid, drop in the beeswax and turn off the flame. The residual heat in the grease is enough to melt the wax. Keep stirring till completely melted and dissolved into each other. I cast tubes of lubricant into 1" PVC irrigation pipe mounted in a 2X4.

My favorite alloy is 19lbs of wheelweights with 1lb of tin solder. You can get that at the plumbing section of HomeDepot. Scrap pewter at the flea market though is my current source for tin alloy. I flux everything with Brownells Marvelux. This recipe more or less duplicates Lyman #2 alloy which I shoot flat-base bullets up to 1800 fps in my carbines.

I won't dissuade you from going to cast boolits, but problem with that site is the endless discussions on arcane topics like how much zebra fat to add to lube recipe to shoot lead at rifle velocities. Lyman's 49th manual is an excellent source of information and I'd also suggest you start with that.

 

[35 Whelen]

Again, have to second what 243 states. The problem with wheel-weights today is that many states are gradually phasing out lead, and mandating zinc or iron weights instead.

The very first thing you learn in casting is you DON'T want to get zinc in your batch. But, zinc is easy to separate out, because it floats on top without melting at 650F and has a metallic ting to it instead of dull thud.

In casting, you get what you pay for. I've basically thrown out just about every piece of Lee equipment I've ever bought, and replaced it with more expensive Lyman or RCBS ones. Quality just isn't there with Lee products.

I use a Lyman lubesizer to make my bullets .001" over bore diameter. I measure that by pushing a cast, unsized bullet down the barrel with a wooden dowel.

You can buy lubricant, but I make an excellent lube out of 50:50 moly lithium grease and beeswax. Melt a weighted amount of grease into a throw-away pot with a tight lid. Heat on a camping stove OUTSIDE till it melts. Slap on the lid quickly when the very flammable grease catches fire. Once liquid, drop in the beeswax and turn off the flame. The residual heat in the grease is enough to melt the wax. Keep stirring till completely melted and dissolved into each other. I cast tubes of lubricant into 1" PVC irrigation pipe mounted in a 2X4.

My favorite alloy is 19lbs of wheelweights with 1lb of tin solder. You can get that at the plumbing section of HomeDepot. Scrap pewter at the flea market though is my current source for tin alloy. I flux everything with Brownells Marvelux. This recipe more or less duplicates Lyman #2 alloy which I shoot flat-base bullets up to 1800 fps in my carbines.

I won't dissuade you from going to cast boolits, but problem with that site is the endless discussions on arcane topics like how much zebra fat to add to lube recipe to shoot lead at rifle velocities. Lyman's 49th manual is an excellent source of information and I'd also suggest you start with that.

It must vary greatly from state to state. Here in Texas, or at least where I live, it's not too awfully hard to get WW's and last time I checked, Goodyear and Discount Tire were still installing lead WW's. The best source I've found is small tire shops. I found one run by an older gentleman and his grandson. The old guy was grouchy and not interested in selling me WW's, but the grandson was not only interested, but a gunny sort of guy. Long story short, I load .222 Rem ammunition for him and he saves all his WW's for me. Approaching places like this in a friendly, non-business type manner usually works better.

Funny Michael...you mention the arcane topics on the Cast Boolit site right after you explain to a non-caster how to make his own lube. LOL!!!

You are correct to a degree about the Cast Boolit site in that they do beat some subjects to death....especially making bullet lube. BUT, there are so many sub-forums at the site, that if, for example, you're not interested in the fine points of lube making, you just skip over that sub-forum.

35W

 

[fatcpa]

Most answers are assuming that you want to cast bullets to save money. Saving money is nice, but I cast bullets for my guns because I get the satisfaction of controlling more of the reloading process. To me, it's just part of the shooting sport and I love it.

 

[Bexar]

FATCPA...The main reason I'm thinking about casting is to have an alternative source for pistol bullets. The MOST recent and almost sine wave availability of projectiles shut our Daughter down for her recreational pistol shooting with her friends. She raided everything I had and I was not happy about having to tell her "Don't have any." the other day. So...I started thinking about the 30# of scuba belt weights I have in the garage and that lead is somewhat less fluctuated by politically induced supply issues. Plus...a variety of calibers can be cooked up according to her need at the time instead of stocking up on boxes and boxes of different calibers. A couple of different molds...a furnace pot and a few accessories and she can rock the range.

 

[35 Whelen]

Most answers are assuming that you want to cast bullets to save money. Saving money is nice, but I cast bullets for my guns because I get the satisfaction of controlling more of the reloading process. To me, it's just part of the shooting sport and I love it.

VERY good point! I most certainly cast bullets to save money due to my voracious shooting appetite, but even if someone were offer me free jacketed bullets for eternity, I'd still cast my own because cast bullets can be tailored to any situation from plinking, to serious target shooting/competition to hunting. So, if/when my supply of lead dries up, I'll by lead or lead alloy if I have to so I can continue to cast bullets.

On that subject, I ran across a site that sells bullet alloy cheaper than Rotometals:

https://www.buffaloarms.com/bullet_alloys_and_pure_lead_pr-3897.aspx

They sell the softer alloys that I prefer.

35W

 

[GW Staar]

I have zero experience in casting......lurking in these areas for the future. So to give you any "information" would be laughable. (clod in the butterchurn)

But I have a question nobody has even mentioned. That of loading lead for hex rifled pistols. I thought that was a surefire recipe for high pressures, leading of said barrels, and maybe even blown up Glocks (and others). What's the truth of the matter? Did I read bad uninformed diatribe? Granted I didn't read it on Castboolits.....but then that's not a forum I take part in....yet.

BTW, I agree with the posts that refer you to sites where there's lots of experience in a particular area. I participate in several all the time and find that I get educated in a more well rounded way. I only peek at castboolits from time to time, but that reflects the state of my hobby.......I don't cast......yet.

 

[35 Whelen]

<snip>

But I have a question nobody has even mentioned. That of loading lead for hex rifled pistols. I thought that was a surefire recipe for high pressures, leading of said barrels, and maybe even blown up Glocks (and others). What's the truth of the matter? Did I read bad uninformed diatribe? Granted I didn't read it on Castboolits.....but then that's not a forum I take part in....yet.

BTW, I agree with the posts that refer you to sites where there's lots of experience in a particular area. I participate in several all the time and find the educated more well rounded that way. I only peek at castboolits from time to time, but that reflects the state of my hobby.......I don't cast......yet.

Ask and ye shall receive:

The Truth about Glocks and Cast

35W

ETA- While you're there, go to the "Wheelguns, Pistols, etc" forum and do a search for "polygonal". You'll get lots of info that way too.

 

[BCRider]

Bexar, check the scuba weights for hardness. I've been re-cycling my old scuba weights the same way. But in my case I need the very soft lead for round ball. I found out the hard way that the ones I tested were soft enough but then I mixed in some which were a harder alloy.

In your case the issue is the other way round. You will likely find that the big solid weights are not hard enough. So you'll likely have to add some tin via a dash of solder to the lead. At least unless you're making up low powder "cowboy action" style loads. In that case a softer grade will allow the lead to properly obdurate even with the low pressure.

Anyhow just wanted to warn you to check the lead.

There's brinnel testers out there but an easy way to test is one I found on Castboolits. It involves a set of artist's pencils in various hardnesses from3B to 2H. You sharpen them to a small flat end with sharp shoulders and then try to plow the lead. Shave a small shiny spot with a knife so the pencil is digging into the interior lead and not any skin. If the lead is soft enough a 2B pencil will plow a furrow of lead instead of crumbling the pencil tip. This is good for my round ball needs but would be too soft for anything other than HBWC'ers or very mild cowboy action loading.

Anyhow it's all laid out along with an approximate pencil test to Brinnel conversion chart in the big thread on this topic over at Cast Boolits.

 

[blarby]

(but don't tell "blarby"!!)

Busted again.

Look- you can link to whatever you want. I just believe it'd be better if you answered the question using your vast knowledge here- as opposed to linking abroad.

polygonal rifled pistols

I know that BDS has a bit of experience on that one- I'll defer to him.

I think his way of "solving" the issue is a bit different, but by golly it works !

Off to shoot the SOCOM !

 

[BCRider]

Blarby, the amount of material at CB on this topic is sufficient to fill a very thick book. Why even TRY to re-type all of the knowledge that is so easily available over there?

Each forum has its specialties. Casting info isn't one I see much about here at THR. So I see no issue at all with suggesting that folks go elsewhere to learn about such things.

 

[hartcreek]

GWStar you need to read better power coating is how you deal with polygonal rifling. There is even a caster here in THR selling them.

 

[GW Staar]

Really!? A little paint will keep the lead on the bullet!? I was wondering why the sudden interest in powder coating. Somehow I missed the hex-barrel connection. Is this a home grown recipe or is it done commercially for that purpose as well? (and by commercially, I don't mean a guy selling some on the forum out of his garage even though that's precisely the way more than a few bullet companies started.)