I'm thinking about starting to cast bullets for pistol calibers ???

[LiveLife]

9mm....40SW...45ACP. The auto cartridges will be shot in polygonal rifled pistols ... I started thinking about the 30# of scuba belt weights I have in the garage

If you have "true" polygonal rifled pistols like HK with actual polygon shaped bore, the voids around the round bullet will cause gas leakage and increase leading issues. If you are not familiar with lead bullets, you may end up frustrated and aggrevated from leaded barrels and poor accuracy, regardless of money savings (if any as lead bullets are made from various metals to form an alloy and not typically poured as straight lead - if you have access to lead wheel weights, which is an alloy, that's a different story). I think true cost savings/flexibility would come from no/low cost wheel weights that can be poured into bullet molds without being alloyed with other metals.

If you have Glocks, you can shoot lead loads with some consideration. Glock barrels actually don't have true polygonal rifling rather round bore with rounded hills/valley rifling that's either hexagonal (6 rifling grooves in 9mm/40S&W) and octagonal (8 rifling grooves in 45ACP/GAP).

Based on my experience with lead bullets, barrels with sharper/quicker start of rifling with longer OAL that reduce high pressure gas leakage around the bullet tend to experience less leading issues. Glock barrels have longer leade (space bullet jumps from case neck to the start of rifling) with very smooth/rounded start of rifling. These allow the bullets to travel deeper into the barrel before sufficient chamber pressures build to produce more efficient powder burn resulting in more high pressure gas leakage around the bullet which increases gas cutting, blow liquefied lube off the bullet and reduce bullet base bumping/deformation (obturation).

Since shooting lead bullets in Glock barrels may result in more fouling/lead build up, especially around the chamber area, rcmodel recommends cleaning the barrel more often. I usually inspect Glock barrels around 200-300+ rounds and clean as necessary - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8530855#post8530855

 

[GW Staar]

35Whelen: Thanks for the Link.....its a long book.....I will read it.

... Glock barrels have longer leade (space bullet jumps from case neck to the start of rifling) with very smooth/rounded start of rifling. These allow the bullets to travel deeper into the barrel before sufficient chamber pressures build to produce more efficient powder burn resulting in more high pressure gas leakage around the bullet which increases gas cutting, blow liquefied lube off the bullet and reduce bullet base bumping/deformation (obturation).

Since shooting lead bullets in Glock barrels may result in more fouling/lead build up, especially around the chamber area, rcmodel recommends cleaning the barrel more often. I usually inspect Glock barrels around 200-300+ rounds and clean as necessary - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8530855#post8530855

Thanks BDS! I feel more verified, that maybe I "read better" than hartcreek suggests. My intention wasn't to show my vast Knowledge here (I'm just taking beginning baby steps in the boolit world), but to warn the O.P. that there exists serious considerations that suggest he educate himself in this area of "boolits and polygon barrels" and not just pour and shoot without a thought.

I've "read" about powder-coating boolits, I did not catch why, except that it might reduce leading some. I didn't even think about hex barrels because I haven't read a thread where the two were put together.......missed them I guess. I have my questions about how paint can prevent the gas cutting BDS mentions and resulting lead liquification, but this is all happening in a millisecond so maybe the paint holds that long.

The O.P. was asking for info to help him get started. Kind of like where I will be in a year or two, if my sources of plated & jacketed bullets dry up. I have read many threads about blown up Glocks.....BDS's post may just save the O.P. from being another statistic in that arena, least ways if he uses the post to learn how to prevent excess pressure and leading in those barrels. My first post was just a head's up....hopefully to be followed by those who really know the details. It appears 35Whelen's link and BDS have done so. Be safe and keep your digits and eyes.

 

[LiveLife]

I think many shooters of Glock have success with lead bullets but that doesn't mean everyone else will have the same experience depending on the alloy type/hardness, sizing, lube used and specific powder/charge/OAL of the finished rounds.

I have used some commercial Moly coated lead bullets in factory Glock barrels but experienced varying levels of smoke. I am thinking about trying coated lead bullets many match shooters use in factory Glock barrels without the smoke and leading but since I already have KKM/Lone Wolf barrels for my Glocks, I enjoy the accuracy/low cost of lead bullets. What about smoke you say? With Dardas/Missouri SWC 9mm bullets, I have loads that are essentially smoke free and more accurate than RN loads.

As to OP, I would certainly encourage looking into the casting bullet option but would suggest doing more research as there are many pros and cons of casting bullets of different lead alloys as well as shooting lead in polygonal barrels.

 

[km101]

Yes, casting is a way to save money, but the main reason that I cast is to have a supply of bullets in the weights and configuration, and hardness that I want. I can tailor my cast bullets to the specifications that I need.

For me it is more about self sufficiency. And as long as I can cast, I will never have to worry about supply. I can now cast bullets for every pistol caliber that I shoot along with some of the rifle calibers. It allows me to be flexible in my loading. I can cast a few bullets that I want to try without having to buy 500 and use only a few.

 

[Bexar]

Looks like if I do start casting it will be very limited and probably cost and practical foolish. Probably more rational to just wait for bulk of caliber then order a good supply. Didn't like telling her no and burning up a hundred rounds or two for her in one caliber in a range session is very easy for her to do. Thanks for all the info folks...I need to think on this after being blessed with all the good info.

 

[35 Whelen]

I cannot imagine NOT casting. In fact as I type this, my lead pot out in the shop is heating up and there's a Lyman 429348 laying there beside it, waiting to cast up some .44 caliber, 180 gr. full wadcutters.

If you just want to keep your daughter in bullets, buy a cheap Lee pot ($60 +/- or less used), a cheap Lee mould($25 +/-) and a used lubrisizer with the proper die ($100 or so). If nothing else and you decide against casting, cast up several hundred bullets and sell your equipment back for most of your investment, and you'll have several hundred bullets . Win/win!

I can't tell you how many times I've done this. Buy a good used mould, cast a few hundred bullets from it then sell it for what I had in it. Voila'...free bullets!...well, almost.

35W

 

[LiveLife]

I am looking to get into casting after retirement but I have a feeling it will be like:

"I got into reloading to save money over factory ammunition ... but I ended up just shooting more. Then I got into casting to save even more money over buying bulk bullets ... but I just ended up shooting even more"

 

[GW Staar]

There's one more reason......when all the commercial stuff dries up due to tyranny, we'd better have the equipment, the lead, and the know how, or it won't do us a bit of good having the guns.