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Thank you for your response, the first thing I had made sure of was that I was getting a full stroke, the hole in the disk actually pushes out farther then the hole so im sure its fully engaged. However of course I will check again. I will check to make sure the bottom hardware is all tight. I do know that there is a little wiggle side to side even though everything is as tight as I can get it by hand. When I've taken the hopper off to change the disk hole size I notice that there is powder that is left underneath. Almost as if there was a gap between the plate and the disk itself. Wasnt sure if that was normal or perhaps due to the powder type or what I wasnt sure. I will take the whole thing apart. Empty the hopper and clean everything. Perhaps there is something that is catching the powder before it can drop down into the disk hole. I will let you know how this goes
Check out my post in another thread where I quoted you about this problem:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ding-room-today.830858/page-465#post-12169792
If you are using the chain to activate the disc measure, I have found that can be problematic, and I use a spring for powder measure return (not the spring from Lee).
With that spring the drop tube follows the expander all the way down, following the case.
There's never a gap between the drop tube and expander (i use risers too).
Here's a pic were you can just see this spring in the bottom of the image:
ClampS.jpg
 
Yeh, I remember that go-around.
It was the drop tube not being pressed all the way into the powder measure body.
Even with the drop tube pushed in until it bottom's out against the shoulder, there could still be a small shelf there for powder to stick on.
Here's a pic looking down thru the measure and you can see this shelf:
View attachment 1050763
And I just pushed the drop tube against the edge of my bench, and it pushed in the drop tube until it hit the shoulder.
jmo,.

That's it! Thanks for that Tilos
 
With electronic scales I often find the scale is the culprit when measures differ.
You might try measuring a charge, put it back into the brass, wait for the same length of time it would take to normally go to your next brass, then dump the previously weighed charge again. Do this several times. Do you get the exact weight every time. You should, as it is the same amount. This will verify the scale sees the same weight every time---or not.

Yeah I had ran alot of tests when I first got the scale as I wasnt sure of the quality of national metalics products, i will measure the charge. Dump the powder back into the case. Wait. And then re measure and get the same reading over and over again as many times as I test it.
 
So after trying everything and checking everything you all had suggested I realized it was a static cling issue that seems to be the source of most of my issues. I wiped everything down with dryer sheets and that seemed to fix the issues with that, aswell as put a small humidifier in my work shop (we will see if this is a long term fix)I also ran some powdered graphite through which seemed to smooth everything up and helped everything flow a little better. Thank you all for the help and i will keep you posted.
 
There was an entire thread about that type of thing once......wait till you see @Mark_Mark response to it....

There used to be many many post about that ridiculous idea

I also do not get the static cling. I know what it is and have seen it on a powder measure, But once the powder drops in the disc hold or into a piece of brass it is not an issue. There is no static cling in the holes of Pro Disc

I still go with little grains of powder getting bounced out of the scale pan or the piece of brass when dumped.
 
I also do not get the static cling. I know what it is and have seen it on a powder measure, But once the powder drops in the disc hold or into a piece of brass it is not an issue. There is no static cling in the holes of Pro Disc

But this is what the OP wrote…


So after trying everything and checking everything you all had suggested I realized it was a static cling issue that seems to be the source of most of my issues.


So static cling does cause problems with the measure….:)
 
There used to be many many post about that ridiculous idea

I also do not get the static cling. I know what it is and have seen it on a powder measure, But once the powder drops in the disc hold or into a piece of brass it is not an issue. There is no static cling in the holes of Pro Disc

I still go with little grains of powder getting bounced out of the scale pan or the piece of brass when dumped.

Well I actually keep my scale over a blank piece of white printer paper so I can see if any powder spills out for that exact reason, so no, no powder is "bouncing out" of the scale or brass when I GENTLY dump it in into the pan on my scale.

And that aside, I fixed my issues with the press when I took anti static cling measures and ran powdered graphite through it.
 
Well I actually keep my scale over a blank piece of white printer paper so I can see if any powder spills out for that exact reason, so no, no powder is "bouncing out" of the scale or brass when I GENTLY dump it in into the pan on my scale.

And that aside, I fixed my issues with the press when I took anti static cling measures and ran powdered graphite through it.

OK then, glad you got the issue resolved.:)
 
Anyone have any tips for stopping bullets from jumping crimp? I'm using a redding profile crimp die to crimp. All it seems to be doing is shaving off a little brass around the mouth of the case instead of actually getting a solid crimp. Any ideas? Someone had suggested spraying a little case lube into the inside of the die to help stop the brass from getting shaved which makes sense, but does anyone know what adjustments I need to make to get a good solid crimp with that die ?
 
OK, I'm guessing you are talking about 44m.
Without knowing what bullet you are using or if you are seating and crimping with one die, it's hard you give you any advise about crimping.
A roll crimp die would be optimal and a bullet with a crimp groove rather than a cannular would be best.
Here's a link to a thread/pic/discussion of 44m crimps:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-crimp-in-two-stages.623417/#post-7699828
Here's a search I did also:
Search Results for Query: 44 mag crimp | The High Road
.
 
I can't answer your "profle crimp in 44 Magnum" because I started using a Redding profile crimp on my 44 Mag and Special loads around 2000. I have had no problems, no shaving, and no bullets jumping crimp (and I've never heard of lubing a crimp die.). I flare cases, seat to crimp groove/cannalure and profile crimp. The only "better" crimp I've found for my 5, 44 Magnum guns is a collet crimp (Lee).
 
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