Inland m1 carbine for $350?

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Collectors will tell you again, and again, and again, you want to leave the gun alone. "Restoration" just compromises the value of any gun.
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That isn't entirely correct, only true for rare collectors guns. This isn't amongst them, and the rust detracts from the value. To retain the value, functionality, and remaining steel the firearm should be thoroughly cleaned, thus removing the damaging corrosion, and preserving the carbine for future generations. Whether or not to refinish is debatable, but there is no question that the rust should be removed. No offense, .378Wby, but to leave it as-is and/or just lube it up would be foolhardy and irresponsible.

:)
 
This may come as a shock, but "blue" is ferrous oxidation (rust). Oils will stabilize rust.

You may not consider an M1 Carbine as "collectable." But they're WWII era, Inland is not making them any more, and they're considered by many to be collectible. And collectors want guns which have not been "restored."

There's a fundamental distinction between "restoration" and "conservation."
 
There's also electrolysis for rust removal. It will kill and dissolve any existing rust without further harming the metal or remaining parkerizing. If it's just going to be a shooter or knockaround gun, I suppose paint or Duracoat would be OK, just not on MY carbine. I'm anal enough that I'd do the electrolysis treatment, then wet sand as much rust off as I could, then have it reparked.

New handguards can be bought from Boyd's, but it would have to be sanded a lot to match the stock's dimensions. Or get an Ultimak handguard with an optic rail for a scope or other sight. Lots of ways you could go with a rusty old M1 carbine you bought for cheap. Doesn't necessarily have to be restored to "all correct" condition.
 
This may come as a shock, but "blue" is ferrous oxidation (rust). Oils will stabilize rust.

You may not consider an M1 Carbine as "collectable." But they're WWII era, Inland is not making them any more, and they're considered by many to be collectible. And collectors want guns which have not been "restored."

There's a fundamental distinction between "restoration" and "conservation."
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True, but there were many millions of M1 carbines made, and most "collectors" would pass on this one because it's so rough, or worse yet, part it out to use the pieces on others. This one could still be saved as just a fun gun, to be enjoyed for many years. Doesn't HAVE to be a collectable.

I have two of them. One is very authentic in appearance with a rare stock, yet still a mixmaster, as most are. The other is even more of a mixmaster, with a new aftermarket barrel, very little finish left, and an M2 potbelly stock that's pretty rough. I'm seriously thinking about putting it in a new stock set that I have and having it reparked.

There's lots of true "collectable" milsurps out there that absolutely should NOT be dinked with, but there's also a lot out there that are just too far gone or already changed so much that their "collectable" value is nil. Doesn't mean they wouldn't be fun to shoot or wouldn't perform when needed.
 
I'd have to lean .378's way here. Even if you refinish it, it's not going to change the pitted bore or other internal damage that you can't see. If you go whole hog and refinish/re-barrel, etc, then it's just another mix-master you could have bought off the shelf for less than you the cost of the original purchase, refinishing and replacing parts.

You can't think of "collector value" in the present tense. Think in the future tense as these rifles become rarer, and rarer and rarer.

Just clean it up and do some occasional milk jug shooting or make it your home defense gun, whatever. Hasn't anyone ever watched antiques road show? "Gee, that's a great Confederate civil war sword, but it looks like your granddad replaced the worn grip about fifty years ago, so it's only worth 5K instead of 50K - shame about that..."
 
I'd have to lean .378's way here. Even if you refinish it, it's not going to change the pitted bore or other internal damage that you can't see. If you go whole hog and refinish/re-barrel, etc, then it's just another mix-master you could have bought off the shelf for less than you the cost of the original purchase, refinishing and replacing parts.

You can't think of "collector value" in the present tense. Think in the future tense as these rifles become rarer, and rarer and rarer.
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I will disagree with both of you. This particular rifle will never be worth more in its present condition than what it will be worth all fixed up. Maybe 200 years from now and if there are no more left anywhere else in the world it will but I can almost guarantee that this generation will not see the value of that gun as it is go past what it will be worth if he refinishes it. Just look at Fulton Armory. They refinish m1s and m1a's all the time and then sell them for LOTS of money.
 
Here is what I KNOW I am gonna do to it: origninal military stock, sand down the light pitting to smooth it out a little, try and fill the deeper pitting with a filler (durafill), and a new extractor (it probably don't need it but might as well).

No offense to the guys telling me to keep it like it is, but it is my rifle and I plan on making it look as close to mil issue as possible. If one day it turns out it would have been worth 5000 as is and is only worth 500 after I fix er up, then its my loss (it will not likely ever leave my family)

Both my Grandpa's used m1 carbines while in the military. My dad's dad was an artillery comander in Korea, and my mom's dad was an Air Force mechanic in Vietnam. One Grandpa has passed on, he loved the carbine, the other is very close to death and hated the carbine. So owning this rifle is more or less a testament to my Grandpa's service. It is the reason I have wanted one since I was young enough to hear the stories my Grandpa's would put me on there lap and talk of qualifying, shooting and working with the carbine.
 
No offense to the guys telling me to keep it like it is, but it is my rifle and I plan on making it look as close to mil issue as possible. If one day it turns out it would have been worth 5000 as is and is only worth 500 after I fix er up, then its my loss (it will not likely ever leave my family)
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Good. Its your rifle, do with it as you would like. No sense (for me at least, and it looks like others as well) in owning a gun you are not entirely happy with. If it would make you happy to change its current condition, then go for it.
 
The main reason for selling the rifle is that I would have eventually re-barreled it, new barrel band, bead blast the rest, reparkerize it, and buy a GI stock.

If I had held on to it then my anal retentiveness would have kicked in compelling me to "fix it up" then I would have really sunk some money into it that I really didn't want to.

I already have a 1944 dated barrel/reciever Underwood carbine in good condition, so I wanted the Inland to go to a good home as an inexpensive shooter.
 
"this generation will not see the value of that gun"

"This" generation grew up playing WWII video games as well as being exposed to WWII through more traditional media (such as our families heirlooms) . I think we all want M1 carbines, garands, and 1911s. I know I do, and when I get them (period guns) I will consider them "collectable" and not shoot them too often, even if they are parts guns.

I've always sort of assumed as I got older more guys my age would pick up theese weapons and they will be harder for me to find. We will have to wait and see.
 
I think we all want M1 carbines, garands, and 1911s. I know I do, and when I get them (period guns) I will consider them "collectable" and not shoot them too often, even if they are parts guns.
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Sometimes the best way to reverence a piece of history is to use it as it was meant to be used. That said, I can appreciate your methods.
 
This may come as a shock, but "blue" is ferrous oxidation (rust). Oils will stabilize rust.
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As a Forensic Engineer I have a good understanding of corrosion and deal with it every day, generally the hardest type to remediate, that which is not exposed but poses a risk to the structural integrity of the system. Oil is not a good way to prevent, contain, or remove rust; it is simply a measure that delays the inevitable (unless you keep it continuously bathed in oil). The surface of the steel must be adequately protected to provide some measure of deterrent, hot salt bluing, parkerizing, powder-coat/electrostatics, paint, and other coatings are ways to effectively deter corrosion.

:)
 
CCSniper, If you get the buyer's remorse over that Inland, or if you just can't decide whether to fix her up or not, I'll take it off your hands.

KR
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Well, if I ever feel a real need to deprive myself of it, I will maybe possibly might consider your proposal... ;)
 
anyone know how many parts from a National Ordinance m1 carbine would be interchangeable with my Inland? A friend has one that is broke and wants 30-50 for it.
 
anyone know how many parts from a National Ordinance m1 carbine would be interchangeable with my Inland? A friend has one that is broke and wants 30-50 for it.
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That isn't a bad deal, but there is probably a reason it is broken. I have no experience with them, but have head that they are of dubious quality. IIRC most parts are reported to be interchangeable, but I am not certain of specifics (don't believe that they tried to redesign it like Universal though). If it were me, I would spring for the more costly, but better quality USGI parts instead. All makes will work equally well (bolt must be properly headspaced), but you are likely to get more Inland than anything else, simply due to production numbers.

:)
 
Whats broke on it?
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no idea, the bolt won't go forward. It isn't mine so I won't take it apart and he didn't really want to. I know he has a bunch of mags for it he said he would sell me for cheap (2 or 3 bucks a piece). I told him I would take it apart for him and try to figure it out but he doesn't really care and just decided to go ahead and sell it for parts.
 
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