Is a Katrina Glock a good fixer upper?

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chbrow10

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I am looking for a discounted Glock 17 or 19 for my son to start shooting USPSA. I came a across a Police trade in G19 from a Hurricane Katrina affected area. It looked like the gun had not been touched since it was flooded. The gun was in the following condition;

*Generation 1
*original plastic sights
*bone dry, no oil anywhere
*All metal parts had major surface rust, especially the metal slide rail inserts
and the muzzle end of the slide, where the barrel pokes out
*rear sight adjusted for windage all the way to one side.
*trigger pull very heavy and draggy, probably due to corrosion
*heavy pitting rust in one of the barrels grooves. After several passes with a bore brush, he surface rust was gone but there was definite pits in the barrel.
*one 10 round magazine which looked new, had no rust, and I suspect was provided so that the gun had at least one mag. The gun probaby came with no mags from the police department.
*the exterior of the gun was well worn and very rough.

Here's the question: If the price was right (it wasn't) is a used glock in this condition a good project gun for a do it yourself-er to do without the aid of a gunsmith? Everyone talks about how Glocks are so easy to work on and you don't need a gunsmith to do the majority of the work. Does that apply in this case?

Chris
 
maybe, depends on how good the price was to begin with. I would suggest you just buy a lightly used glock. It will probably take as much money to get your water damaged glock running good as it will to buy a used one.
 
I would take this pistol if it was given to me for free, then try to salvage the slide and frame and replace everything else. I wouldn't pay anything for it.
 
I would pass on this gun. There are enough used Glocks out there at reasonable prices. No need to take on the aggravation of rebuilding a lost cause.

What I would be most concerned about would be the rust on the rail inserts, and if it extended between the poltmer and metal, causing separation of the two.

The barrel and slide are never going to be the same. I'd pass. Not even a parts gun.
 
I guess I would say it all depends on the price, I wouldn't pay much for that thing but if its super cheap, go for it.

If your gonna do competitive shooting with it you'll probably end up replacing the barrel, sights, trigger components and other such parts anyways so the existing ones can be tossed in a junk box.

If the frame is that bad and cannot be repaired, it could be a good project gun for a CCF race frame.

Thats my take on it, I enjoy weird little projects like this and it might be fun, but only if the price is right.
 
Glocks are cheap. IF, and only IF Glock would refinish it for next to nothing AND still be able to be under the price of a used model would I bother. Not to say that it has expired, but obviously has seen better days. Gen 1's are nice. No finger grooves to get in the way. And they are plentiful on the market.
 
O.K., not a model 19, but CDNN is selling police trade-in 1st. gen, G to VG 22's with night-sights for $320.

Glock factory rebuilt VG to E ones for $340.

Factory rebuilt G to VG 3rd. gen for $350.

rcmodel
 
There is no problem handloading and no problem with a .40. He currently shoots a fullsize 1911 in 45 ACP (handloaded to barely Major).

However, I'd really like to get him a 9mm for magazine capacity, weight and cost.
 
I called Glock and they will replace all the internals for free. The three parts they will not replace are the barrel ($95), the frame ($43), and the slide ($180). I think that the slide just needs to be refinished, but I don't know what is back there in the rear of the slide, or what it looks like back there. I wonder what Glock's criteria will be for whether or not the slide needs to be replaced?
 
If you aren't an "official glock armorer" you aren't supposed to take it all the way apart. It's a one day class to be a glock armorer. For most other brands, it's about a ten day class. That should give you an idea how easy it is to work on glocks.
 
I downloaded the Glock Armorers manual from somewhere and was able to detail strip my pistol in minutes. Glocks are very easy to work on. There are step by step instructions on how to do so all over the web. The important thing to remember is, during reassembly, to replace the parts in the correct order.

It will run! The frame and slide will probably not need to be replaced. The barrel could be a different story... though stock and aftermarket replacements are inexpensive and readily available.

Save the money from the gunsmith to buy a new barrel. :evil:
 
If Glock would replace the internals for free it could be a fair overall deal. The rust is annoying but not a big issue. The real key is how much for the trade-in unit to begin with.

Assuming Glock is doing the work they'll have a good look. If they aren't comfortable with the safety of the result they'll let you know.

At a repair depot it would take an experienced shop worker maybe 20 minutes to replace all the internal parts from on-hand stock.
 
Are y'all ready for what the guys wants for the gun right now....?

$345 plus tax

What a ripoff!
 
That is highway robbery..........

But that said, I bet if you lubed it and gave it a decent cleaning, it would work. Then you can go about detail stripping and replacing parts and getting it in better working order.

If I could get it for free (or nearly free: $100 would be my max), I would take it on....but at $350, you can get a Glock in MUCH better shape for the same price. Or a new RIA 1911 for about the same as well.
 
I have seen prices like that at local gun shows. This past weekend I was looking for a well used 1911 as a project gun. I saw an Ithaca 1911 that was very well used...the dealer wanted $600. It was strange...used guns were selling for just slightly less than new...needless to say I have not bought a used gun since I moved to the desert :)
 
Ironically, he is currently shooting my Rock Island Tactical 1911, which weighs 43-44 ounces. The idea behind the glock is it is half the weight.
 
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