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Is There a SiG Rust Proof Finish ?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Newton, Apr 22, 2003.

  1. Newton

    Newton Well-Known Member

    I'm still really wanting a P239 but I hear and read a LOT about how easily the classic SiGs rust.

    I note that these guns now use a Nitron finish. Is this an improved version of their older finish, or have they always used Nitron.

    If I compared a P239 from 4 years ago with one from today, would todays model be more rust resistant.

    Any advice appreciated.

  2. Destructo6

    Destructo6 Well-Known Member

    I'm not sure when SIG went to the Nitron finish. Earlier, they simply blued the slides and anodized the frames.

    At that time, SIG's most rust resistant finish was the K-Kote, which was a satin polymer-like coating. It made the pistol appear almost plastic.

    I have an older K-Kote SIG P226 9mm. I rarely wipe it down and have never seen rust on it. The finish has sustained some wear around the front edges of the slide, where it would rub on a holster as it was being drawn/reholstered, but there's still no rust.
  3. SouthpawShootr

    SouthpawShootr Well-Known Member

    239s shouldn't rust (much). The slide is stainless, so only the hammer and other carbon steel parts are susceptible. Same goes with the 229. Never had a problem with mine (it's at least 5 years old). Frankly, I'm really surprised and disappointed to see this happening in guns this expensive. Lots of good aftermarket finishes around if you have one of the models with regular steel slides.
  4. Quintin Likely

    Quintin Likely Well-Known Member

    I've yet to see an explaination as to how/why/when/under what conditions SIGs rust...

    My P239 has been fine so far.
  5. M1911

    M1911 Well-Known Member

    If you like Sigs, get one. If you don't like the finish, have an aftermarket finish put on it -- there's plenty to choose from: chrome, NP3, Black-T, etc.

    I just can not understand why the factory finish is so important to people. And no, I'm not a big Sig fan.
  6. George Hill

    George Hill Well-Known Member

    Packing a weapon in an open low ride jacket slot hoster around Richmond Virginia is a pretty good test of the finish.
    I did this with a SIG P220 and an HK USP .40F.
    Both guns rusted in the same place... Right around the rear sights. It was just a dusting. A nylon brush with Breakfree CLP did the trick and prevented further rusting. The slides themselves, hammers or anything else never rusted. The SIG had some good holster wear exposing streaks of bare metal... these didn't rust... but then again I always kept a film-like coating of Breakfree CLP over them.
  7. Yo

    Yo Well-Known Member

    Wax it

    CLP is good, but if you need even more rust protection, use some carnuba wax. It leaves a dry finish that doesn't attract dirt.

    This is a trick some of us Cowboy action shooters do with our blued guns.

    Just make sure it is a finish wax, NOT a cleaner/was. The latter may have abrasives that can dull a gloss blued finish.
  8. emann

    emann Well-Known Member

    I have the Nitron finish over stainless steel Sig P239 and have had no rust problem's. That you would even let this concern keep you from purchasing a P239 already is downright silly. It's way to nice of gun to be worrying about something that can be easily fixed if even happens at all.
  9. M1911

    M1911 Well-Known Member

    Newton: Sorry my first post was a bit harsh. What I was trying to say is this: when considering what handgun to buy, think about what can be fixed cheaply and what can't be fixed.

    For example, if the gun fits your hand well, but the trigger is a bit stiff, a good gunsmith can fix that right up for short dollars. If you basically like the trigger, but the trigger reset is too long, well, you are probably out of luck. If you like the gun, but the grip circumference is just too big, it is probably expensive to fix that. If you like the gun but not the sights, that can be fixed cheaply.

    If you like the Sig, but don't like the finish, that can be easily fixed for a couple hundred bucks. To me, the difference between a Sig, Glock, HK, Beretta, 1911, etc, is great enough that the finish is the least of my considerations. The finish can be fixed. Lots of other things can't be fixed.
  10. Newton

    Newton Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the replies.

    As for checking out the finishes, I'm just trying to avoid purchasing the wrong factory finish, hence the next question which is......

    ..... are ALL current manufacture P239's now Nitron on stainless, or do SiG still do the plain blued version.


  11. M1911

    M1911 Well-Known Member

    I don't think I've ever seen a plain blued finish on a Sig. They have used various phospate type black finishes.
  12. Spackler

    Spackler Well-Known Member

    My P225 is just plain blue, no fancy-pants finish. I thought I would have a problem with finish wear, but I have not.
  13. JMag

    JMag Well-Known Member


    I have what even the Sig website says is likely to be THE most corrosion resistant model, the SigPro.

    I believe it to be THE most underrated semi on the market!
  14. agony

    agony Well-Known Member

    Amen to that, JMag.

    IIRC, the P232/P230 is available in a true blue finish.
    The classic stamped carbon steel slides of the P2xx series come in a rough blue.
  15. Handy

    Handy Guest


    As most aftermarket finishes cost between $150 and $300, how is the finish of a new gun not an important consideration?

    From your tag, one might assume that you are comfortable throwing hundreds at a brand new gun to make it "serviceable", but many people feel that a weapon should be complete when it leaves the factory (myself included).

    The finish is one of the things you pay for with a gun, and a factor in your choice. The quality or resiliance of various factory finishes has often been the great deciding factor in a toss up between to otherwise acceptable weapons. Certainly, Glock's reputation was built in large part on the toughness of Tennifer.

    As to the Sig, one would hope the blackened SS main components would be good enough. The use of wax or a teflon penetrant can increase the metals resistance to corrosives. I've carried a blued gun on occasions, but I wasn't sweating much. The main thing to worry about are components that come in direct contact with sweat. Parts like hammers and mag releases are less likely to rust than a slide.
  16. Safety First

    Safety First Well-Known Member

    Newton, I carry Sig p-239 and I purchased it late in 2002. It is Nitron finish with a stainless slide. One thing I did primarily for the purpose of comfort was to order a IWB holster and Had a optional slide-guard added to keep the hammer from biting into my side, cost was $10.00 to add the slide guard. As a addtional bennefit this should help reduce rust problems associated with sweat. I have been happy with my P-239. If ccw is a primary concern then the Sig is a good choice..good luck....
  17. 45R

    45R Well-Known Member

    No gun Steel gun is rust proof. Even stainless steel rusts. You just have to take care of them.
  18. M1911

    M1911 Well-Known Member

    It is a consideration. But just how important?

    You can fix the finish for, as you pointed out, $150 to $300. If you can't comfortably reach the slide mounted safety/decocker on a S&W or Beretta, how much would THAT cost to fix? Lots more than $150 to $300, wouldn't you agree?

    If you really dislike the relatively long trigger reset of a Kahr, how much would THAT cost to fix? Lots more than $150 to $300, wouldn't you agree?

    If you hate the rear-most location of the Sig slide-stop lever, how much would THAT cost to fix? Lots more than $150 to $300, wouldn't you agree?

    If you hate the location of the HK USP's mag release, how much would THAT cost to fix? Lots more than $150 to $300, wouldn't you agree?

    If you hate the Sig 232's heel mag release, how much would THAT cost to fix? Lots more than $150 to $300, wouldn't you agree?

    If you are not comfortable carrying a striker-fired Glock, how much would THAT cost to fix?

    To me, the most important things in a gun are 1) the action type (SA, DA, striker-fired, etc.), 2) how it fits my hand, 3) the trigger feel, 4) the location of the slide stop, 5) the location of the magazine release. The weight of the trigger pull can be often be improved for relatively short money. The sights can be improved for relatively short money. The finish can be improved as well, though not as cheaply as the trigger weight. But it is relatively impractical to change most of the rest. Therefore, if a gun passes points 1 through 5 above, I can fix the finish if it isn't up to snuff. Do I factor the cost of the finish into the gun? Sure. But it isn't a deal breaker. If I can't comfortably reach the trigger, now that IS a deal breaker.
    Most recently, I "threw" $100 at an HK USPc trying to improve the trigger. Didn't do much. I've "thrown" $150 at a Glock trying to improve the trigger. It wasn't as bad as before, but you know what? It still sucks. Not ONLY were those guns not "complete" when they left the factory, but I can't make them "complete" even AFTER "throwing" money at them!

    There are lots of things about pistols that can not practically be fixed. Finishes, as even you admit, can be readily fixed.
  19. Handy

    Handy Guest

    If it saved me $200, I could learn to use any slide release.

    And most gun buyers are open to a bit a variety when it comes to controls, trigger, etc, because they can learn to use them properly.

    I would wager that most gun buyers would rather work with and learn their $600 gun than find the one with the ultimate slide release and immediately make it an $800 gun because the bluing wasn't up to snuff.

    My pistols release the slide from so many different places, it would give you quite the headache.

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