Is this normal with J frames or wheel guns in general?

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bcp280z

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I just recently aquired my first wheel gun, Smith 438, only put about 350rds through so far, bought it new. First time I noticed a discrepancy on front of cyl. was using some GA Arms reloads, it was my first time using those and first time using wadcutters. I tried rubbing some gun oil on it and buffing but I dunno. Is it normal for this to happen with colored revolvers or ?



Used non smart cell phone for cam, apologize for deleted quality

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If its a stainless steel cylinder than you need to use a "lead away" cloth to clean the carbon off the front of it. Do NOT use lead away cloths on blue steel cylinders ( takes bluing off). This is normal for revolvers to get dirty here due to barrel cylinder gap.
 
Get some Mother's aluminum wheel paste, a toothbrush and a rag, before you know it, everything is back to the same. Just take a little effort, my 629 really shines after getting her nose blackened!!
 
It is NOT necessary to remove all of that.
Unless you're one of those who insist on it being perfectly pristine & like to polish things, just clean it normally & don't worry about the dark rings it leaves. They will not adversely affect the cylinder.
Denis
 
Is it dark rings, or lead rings you are concerned about? I think I'm seeing silvery rings, not black.
 
Its mostly melted lead from the base of the bullet when shooting lead bullets and/or carbon from the burning powder.
 
I own a nickled S&W M-27( my pokerizer, see The Stand by Stephen King), and have yet to worry about the burn rings at the front of the cylinder. Unless you need it to look newish no need to fret about them.
 
I'm much less worried about cosmetics as I am function. It's my first revolver and EDC so just had to make sure it wasn't bad or anything. Thank's for all the info, bought a special wipe for it but I'll save it til it gets a little dirtier.
 
In a nut shell then...

...if it's carbon staining, not much to trouble yourself over. What solvent and a brush don't remove can stay put.

...if it's lead buildup, it could eventually affect cylinder movement if your barrel/cylinder gap is tight. Otherwise, some never worry about it. Personally, I see no reason not to clean all the lead deposits off my guns at each cleaning.
 
I've got some Georgia Arms 158g LSWCHPs and have had the same buildup, including little flecks of lead in the barrel and in some of the cylinder holes.

This is from their website: "These component lead bullets manufactured at Georgia Arms are hard cast with #2 Lyman alloy to produce superbly accurate bullet with sufficient hardness to reduce leading. They are wax lubed and sized. Brinell hardness is 18."

They're a good load, the FBI standard for .38s for a long time, and shoot accurately. But the lead does build up. I've found that shooting about 50 rounds of jacketed ball ammo after shooting lead bullets helps scour the barrel some. But I prefer to clean after each shoot rather than letting it build up over time. Then again, it's a carry gun so I want it to work if I need it to work.
 
Get some Mother's aluminum wheel paste, a toothbrush and a rag, before you know it, everything is back to the same. Just take a little effort, my 629 really shines after getting her nose blackened!!

Don't do this! The 438 is a blued gun and this will take the finish off!

S&W 438
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Grin - I kinda like it. Gives the revolver a used or "character" type of look. I like my revolvers to have a bit of wear to them. I've never bothered to clean the front of the cylinders beyond what it takes to make them safe and accurate.

Shot alot - carried alot - thats how a working revolver should look.
 
now I want one. Did they ever make them with a roundbutt?

Nope, Model 58s came only with square butts and 4", pinned barrels. About 20,287 of them were made from 1964 to 1977, most of them blued, some were nickled and a very few were reportedly two-toned (of which I've never even seen pictures of).
 
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