I've decided on my first 1911

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I have decided to go with the Kimber Custom II Stainless. It feels great in hand, and I love the trigger. It also has all the features I'm looking for. The only concern I have is the barrels propensity to rust. Should I be worried? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Evan
 
Yep -- run a lightly oiled patch down the bore now and then.

I've carried an ordinary steel Kimber Custom Classic (MK I) in either an IWB or a Tuckable for some 15 years or so, and have had no trouble with rust.
 
Congrats!!! You have finally seen the light and are joining the congregation of the enlightened pistoleros. Just keep the barrel lubed properly and you should not have a problem.
 
please please research kimbers before plunking down your hard earned money. at least get a 1911 with a stainless barrel for that amount of cash. you can do a lot better and for less money....just friendly advice. you'll thank me later
 
Mixed Feelings

I have one going on two years now. It has been a great gun for the most part and shoots very well. I had a few FTFs during the break in period, which is normal for a 1911.

However, the barrel started to rust with some basic oil I was using. I called Kimber and they took care of it, shipping to Kimber was on my dime. I wasn't very pleased that they were not very concerned about the rust issue, and I've read several posts of other on here with rust issues. I've even seen some new Kimbers rusted on the shelf at the gun stores around here. With that being said, I now use Eezox to coat the barrel and haven't had a problem with rusting.

I do have a Springfield Loaded that I am happier with for the price though :)
 
Thanks Klash545, I was also considering the Springfield Loaded. Now that I think about it you're right, I should at least be getting a stainless barrel for that much coin. If anyone has any other suggestions within the Kimber custom II price range let me know. Thank you in advance.

Evan
 
yes you should be getting a stainless for that much coin....look into kimbers QC problems before dropping the dough on one. there are much better 1911s out there for the money. to be honest i'd buy a RIA before i'd buy a kimber and you can get one of those for under 500. I'd say look at used dan wessons instead of new ones since they raised their prices unfortunately. i would skip springfield if you want a real high end gun,springfield is really mostly an importer besides their custom shop services. the 1911s are made in brazil by imbel,only some are assembled,etc. here,and their XDs are from croatia. you can get a better 1911 than a springfield,they are mediocre guns. how much are you looking to spend that way i can make some more accurate suggestions.
 
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I wouldn't put a lot of stock in the "for that kind of money I'd at least get a stainless barrel" comment.

Les Baer does not use stainless barrels. His 1911 line-up starts at around $2,000 and if I had that kind of spare cash I'd buy one without hesitation.
 
Thoughts? Shop for a used Classic Stainless (not a series II) if you want a Kimber. Otherwise, any other 1911 is going feel the same (given the same grips), and any competent gunsmith can easily tune a 1911 trigger for a minimal fee. Basically, get any new or used high quality 1911 with the features you want, and stay away from firing pin safeties.
 
Kimber made its name by offering what used to be extra cost features (trigger, sights, hammer, etc.) at retail prices competitive with no-frills entry-level 1911s. And at that time, they sold good pistols, including the legendary (to some people) Clackamas.

I have one of the early series, and rust has never entered my vocabulary when describing that pistol. I have seen the Series II that had the poorly-designed external extractor and the ones that didn't and read and heard all the issues that came with the later models. As they raised manufacturing capacity to keep up with market demand, QC didn't keep up.

The point is, there are barrels and there are barrels, just like there are Kimbers and there are Kimbers. Nothing is constant, and sweeping statements are misleading.

Find one you like (and you may have to purchase and sell a number before you actually achieve this) and keep it. And you may find it impossible to have just one 1911.

My .02.

MR2
 
I had a few FTFs during the break in period, which is normal for a 1911.

That could not be further from the truth. thats like saying "Glocks aren't very accurate, their designed to be combat accurate but not for bullseye shooting"

a GOOD, properly built 1911 does not have a "Break In Period" and doesn't have to use that excuse for a jamming pistol. This seems to be a common excuse for 3-4" 1911's, 9mm/.40 1911's and from company's like Kimber, Para and Taurus. Ive never had a "break in period" with my Browns, wilsons, sti's, dan wessons, fusion, springfields. But i did get that BS fed to me from Kimber. They also said "Call back after 1,000 rounds and if your still having problems you can ship it back (on my dime) and we will check it out. So yeah, drop $800-1500 on a gun, THEN run anywhere from 300-500 dollars in ammo before you can have a dependable 1911? hahahahaha... OK.....

Take that 800-1500 on the kimber and consider that 300-500 bucks in "break in ammo"... and then put that money into a quality firearm that doesn't depend on that excuse. Id buy an RIA, high Standard, STI Spartan, Springfield GI, Springfield Loaded, Older Dan Wesson's and a series 80 colt for LESS than those kimbers and breathe a sigh of relief that odds are I now have a much better gun than a Kimber.

I have gone through several Kimbers, I currently have a CDP II Custom, an older clackamas kimber and an SIS that are all working good now but that CDP II needed a steel feed ramp milled and installed after a couple thousand rounds. The clackmas doesn't have much through it because i consider it a collectable and the SIS has given me issues so far but im leaning on Magazine issues and am working that out now before i give final judgement.

considering a large percentage of people that buy kimbers don't put 1000rds through them in their lifetime or keep track, its a great way for kimber to say "Too bad" to the customer.

No thanks

JOe
 
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remember, stainless is achieved by adding chromium in excess of 11% by volume. This actually weakens a good carbon steel. Enough to matter? It depends. generically speaking (I don't have the specs Kimber uses for the barrels they purchase) a stainless barrel would wear out faster than a cheaper high carbon steel barrel. As for myself, I'm on the fence as to longer lasting vs easier care.
 
I have decided to go with the Kimber Custom II Stainless. It feels great in hand, and I love the trigger. It also has all the features I'm looking for. The only concern I have is the barrels propensity to rust. Should I be worried? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Evan
If rust is a particulary vexing problem where you live you might want to consider sending that barrel off and getting it hard chromed.
 
Ahhh the days of the Series I kimbers with external extractors..... I loved mine. (nostalgia)

It sucks to see things happen that reduce the reputation and quality of guns. My brother has been shooting his ulgy S&W 5906 for 20+ years but i woudldnt have given a dime for the three digit series (908 or what ever)
 
for 8-900 you could buy two barely used Glocks,a 21 and a 30SF for carry and both would be more reliable and just as accurate as any 1911 you'll come across. or one Glock,a great holster,mags and lots of ammo and a pistol class. just something to think about....
 
Ahhh the days of the Series I kimbers with external extractors..... I loved mine. (nostalgia)
Actually, most (all?) of the external extractor Kimbers were Series II. Series II denotes the Swarz type FP block. The vast majority of the pre-Series II guns (there was no Roman Numeral I designation), had internal extractors. Kimber ditched the EE because it had reliability issues.

for 8-900 you could buy two barely used Glocks,a 21 and a 30SF for carry and both would be more reliable and just as accurate as any 1911 you'll come across
No, a stock Glock will never be just as accurate as a stock Kimber (or SIG for that matter). Kimbers, and most 1911s in general, have a far tighter in battery lock up than Glocks. This mostly to do with the fitting of the bushing to the slide & barrel, and the tilting link. Full length slide rails which are fitted tighter to the slide than Glock's little stamped metal rail inserts also help. (The full length rails apply to SIGs as well, SIGs also have a tighter barrel to slide fit at the muzzle, and a more precise fit of the locking lugs to locking blocks than Glocks).

As far as reliability goes, Glocks have their issues too. Putting a rail mounted light on a Glock greatly increases your chances of problems as well.

Last, comparing new to used isn't exactly apples to apples is it? I can buy a lightly used pre Series II Kimber (which you can tell I'm a bit fond of ;) ) for barely more than a new Glock. For slightly more money I'll take precision fitted steel over a mass produced, sloppily fitted, chunk of plastic with some metal bits attached to it.
 
I dislike Kimber because I had a negative experience with their guns and customer service. QC was bad and the guns should never have left the factory. I recommend another brand, preferably one worked on by a professional gunsmith (not a "technician"). Les Baer, Ed Brown, Fusion, Nighthawk and others come to mind.

Read all these articles:

http://www.10-8performance.com/Articles.html

Once you have a few possibilities, then go over to the 1911 Forum and start researching the models and companies. It's important to verify that a company offers good customer service in the event the gun has problems.
 
I recently got back into the 1911 after a 15 year absence.. I shopped around with the various models.. I put a self imposed 1,000.00 limit on whatever I chose..

I looked at Rock Island, Taurus, S&W, Kimber, Springfield, American Classic.. I called various places to check Customer service and ask questions.

I called Kimber and talked with their CS, I think it was Anne that I talked to. I couldn't find their warranty information on the web site, nor was there anything on the tag on the gun I found locally. She informed me that Kimber had a 1 year warranty, but if you were the original owner and it was something that wasn't damage due to reloads, or finish, they would probably 'look at it' .. as several have said, it appears to be on your dime to ship it to them.

Springfield, yeah, it's made in Brazil.. nice company.. big company.. Warranty for the life of the pistol... and not even to the original owner in most cases.

Rock Island, great customer service, Dave in Las Vegas is evidently a class act in Customer Service..

Taurus, evidently hit or miss.. lots of folks love em, lots of folks don't.. guess that's why there are so many makers of this *cough* antiquated handgun.. 100 years and still going strong..

Shop around a bit until you are satisfied..
 
I'll tell you exactly how it has worked out. I have fired many thousands of rounds through Glocks, Berettas, Sigs, S&Ws, Tauri, etc, none of them were any more reliable than my Custom II. The only reason why it won't be my go to gun forever is that I am buying a wide-frame commemorative Para through my unit.
 
Yep -- run a lightly oiled patch down the bore now and then.

I've carried an ordinary steel Kimber Custom Classic (MK I) in either an IWB or a Tuckable for some 15 years or so, and have had no trouble with rust.
I too have had a Custom Classic MKI for the last 15 years. Never had any barrel rust issue but the top of the slide got some powdery rust on it once from my negligence. Its still my go to gun. The only thing I would suggest is the replace that damned plastic main spring housing if Kimber still uses them. Their first pistols even had them and it was the first thing I changed on mine.
 
sure,keep trying to argue that 1911s are just as reliable as modern pistols.....let me know how that works out
They are. The unreliable ones are made by companies using out of spec and/or improperly fitted parts.

Let's say I take a stock Glock 17L with 3.5lb connector; and then buy an aftermarket barrel so I can get full case head support, and shoot lead safely as well. Maybe I paid Bar-Sto (or whomever) to make that barrel with oversize lugs, so I can fit it very tightly to the locking block to help eliminate play in full battery. Let's say I also ream the muzzle of the slide oversize, weld in a bushing, and hand lap that bushing to fit the barrel very tightly, thus making that barrel lock up like a bank vault in full battery. Last, I'll have a buddy weld some extra material onto the little slide rails on the frame, and hand lap those to a very tight fit with the slide as well. My finished product would be the most accurate Glock ever made. It probably won't be reliable though. I'll than get an FFL so I can gunsmith professionally and start offering to make your Glock as accurate as a rifle (I'll conveniently neglect to mention potential reliability issues). Soon everyone will want an ugaarguy super accurate Glock. Other gunsmiths will start copying me. I will have to get a manufacturer's license and hire more smiths to keep up with the volume demanded. Thousands of these pistols will get into circulation. A few months, or a few years, will pass. These Glocks will have reliability issues. Guys will get on the internet and complain about how unreliable Glocks are - they'll blame Glock and not me though ;) .
 
Hey, if it is the gun you want and you have that much money to spend on a gun go for it! Who cares what others opinions are. Do you really think that you could be unhappy with the gun you chose? I bet not, and if you are... sell the stupid thing, its just a gun.
 
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