I had a few FTFs during the break in period, which is normal for a 1911.
That could not be further from the truth. thats like saying "Glocks aren't very accurate, their designed to be combat accurate but not for bullseye shooting"
a GOOD, properly built 1911 does not have a "Break In Period" and doesn't have to use that excuse for a jamming pistol. This seems to be a common excuse for 3-4" 1911's, 9mm/.40 1911's and from company's like Kimber, Para and Taurus. Ive never had a "break in period" with my Browns, wilsons, sti's, dan wessons, fusion, springfields. But i did get that BS fed to me from Kimber. They also said "Call back after 1,000 rounds and if your still having problems you can ship it back (on my dime) and we will check it out. So yeah, drop $800-1500 on a gun, THEN run anywhere from 300-500 dollars in ammo before you can have a dependable 1911? hahahahaha... OK.....
Take that 800-1500 on the kimber and consider that 300-500 bucks in "break in ammo"... and then put that money into a quality firearm that doesn't depend on that excuse. Id buy an RIA, high Standard, STI Spartan, Springfield GI, Springfield Loaded, Older Dan Wesson's and a series 80 colt for LESS than those kimbers and breathe a sigh of relief that odds are I now have a much better gun than a Kimber.
I have gone through several Kimbers, I currently have a CDP II Custom, an older clackamas kimber and an SIS that are all working good now but that CDP II needed a steel feed ramp milled and installed after a couple thousand rounds. The clackmas doesn't have much through it because i consider it a collectable and the SIS has given me issues so far but im leaning on Magazine issues and am working that out now before i give final judgement.
considering a large percentage of people that buy kimbers don't put 1000rds through them in their lifetime or keep track, its a great way for kimber to say "Too bad" to the customer.
No thanks
JOe