Jack of all trades AR-15

[jlewis406]

I am trying to build an AR-15 that is the "jack of all trades, master of none" well rounded type of rifle. Something that I can use 25 to 400 or 500 yards". Light but robust. Can use it for SHTF, coyote hunting and competition. So far I have the built the lower (Spikes, with DD parts kit and Geissele SD-E trigger), and a Leupold Mark 4 MR/T to sit on top. Just having a hard time deciding on the barrel.

I need some input on barrel length and twist. I was planning on a 18'' with a 1/8 twist. I'd like to hear some pro's and cons of a 16'' vs a 18''. And the pro's and con's of a 1/8 twist barrel. I need input soon because I am going to pull the trigger on this upper soon. Thanks in advance!

 

[back40]

what type of competition are you referring to?

 

[pseudonymity]

16" barrel with carbine gas system. 1/8 or 1/7 twist.

The function of the gas system is well understood with that combo, and the 1/8 or 1/7 twist will let you shoot heavy bullets out to 500 yds.

18" barrels with carbine gas systems have a longer dwell time than 16" barrels and may require different gas port sizes or a heavier buffer to function well. Midlength gas in 18" is usually more difficult to find parts for, although the longer sight radius would help if you compete with iron sights.

 

[jlewis406]

Possible 3-Gun or practical shooting (forgot what it's actually called). More as a fun hobby to do when I can, not hard core crack-addict 3-Gunner.

I forgot to add that I have settled on a midlength gas system and have a Spikes tungsten buffer in my lower. I am still trying to fully educate myself on gas blocks and gas block settings.

Thanks you.

 

[ugaarguy]

I forgot to add that I have settled on a midlength gas system and have a Spikes tungsten buffer in my lower. I am still trying to fully educate myself on gas blocks and gas block settings.

Unless you're running a suppressor you don't need an adjustable gas block.

The midlength gas tube was developed by Armalite to give civilian 16" bbl ARs a shorter dwell time, similar to 14.5" bbl carbines with CAR gas tubes, and 20" bbl rifles with rifle length gas tubes.

Given the same ammunition, longer dwell times equate to more gas volume in the system, and higher bolt carrier group rearward velocities. This equates to a faster cyclic rate. The heavier buffers are used to increase reciprocating mass which slows the BCG's rearward velocity, and thereby slow the cyclic rate of the rifle.

What does all that mean? If you're stuck on a midlength gas tube you probably don't need a tungsten or similar heavy buffer with a 16" bbl.

If you go to an 18" bbl with a mid length gas tube you very well may need a heavier buffer to deal with the increased gas volume from the longer dwell time on the longer bbl. 18" is a weird bbl length in relation to standard AR gas tube lengths.

 

[Ar180shooter]

18" barrel chambered in .223 wylde, 1 in 8 twist, intermediate length gas system and FF hand guard of your choice.

Noveskemakes an 18" barrel, 5.56 Match Mod 0 chamber and 1 in 7 twist that would also do well.

 

[readyeddy]

I would go with a 20" upper. It's short enough to be handy and long enough to make use of the cartridge's potential.

 

[Welding Rod]

BCM 20" Government with plastic handguards, telescoping buttstock, good 2-stage trigger and either irons or an Aimpoint M4s.

That is my personal pick.

 

[Redlg155]

My last build was a YHM Upper and full length FF railed upper(Full top rails, partial side and bottom) with a DPMS mini SASS 18" barrel. I just finished shooting it today and .5 groups at 100 yards are easily the norm. I found that this was the perfect balance between a carbine and full length rifle, especially with a collapsible stock.

The rifle utilizes a full length gas system. I have had zero problems with an approximate round count of 500.

 

[Infidel4life11]

IMO I would do a CHF mid length 1:7 or 1:8 16" for all around. 18" really isn't going to give you any more accuracy. After a dozen AR's my go to rifle will always be a mid length CHF 1:7.

 

[skywalkrNCSU]

I would go with a 20" upper. It's short enough to be handy and long enough to make use of the cartridge's potential.

Why would you feel it necessary to get a 20" upper? A 16" upper should be more than enough in terms of length for your needs. I would probably go with Noveske or a Ranier custom upper (well that is what I am going to do when I get the cash )

 

[TwoEyedJack]

For a general purpose AR it is hard to beat an A3 flat top with a 20" 1:7 chrome lined barrel. I have one from PSA that is a joy to shoot. The sight radius with a 20" barrel makes hitting with the irons at long range more likely. I have a scope for mine which makes it a great coyote rifle. The muzzle blast from a 20" barrel is significantly reduced compared to the carbine length. I hate shooting short barrels without hearing protection, and not too many wear hearing protection when varmint hunting.

 

[gotigers]

I like an 18" rifle gas, 1:8, wylde for 3 gun or other practical rifle comp. DPMS makes a nice barrel with a nato chamber. I have one on a 3 gun rig. $160 at midway and it is more than accurate enough for 3 gun out to 300.

A 20" (same specs the 18) for NM or SRS. White Oak Armament.

However, if i wanted a "jack of all trades" AR for everything you mentioned. I would get a quality gov/medium profile 16" midlength. Daniel Defense CHF, PSA CHF, etc. A good 16" barrel can be as accurate as any length. Chrome lined will lose a little accuracy, but will last much longer. Not sure if chrome lined is needed for us low shot count civies. I would skip chrome lined if you get CHF.

 

[tyeo098]

I just built my new little 'carbine' after I turned my 20" Govt into a DMR.

Carbine has a PSA LPK with 6pos stock inside of a Delaware lower that my girlfriend and I built together. On top is a 16" Midlength Delton I picked up at the nations gun show for 350

Took my irons off my (now) dmr and swapped a scope on it, but the irons on the carbine.

Some people bash Del-ton, but I am perfectly content, while I can be pretty accurate, my family members just like pulling triggers.

 

[justice06rr]

My suggestion is to go with a 16inch CL barrel, an upper from BCM or Noveske, Nickel Boron BCG. Free-float your barrel with a long quadrail (12inches or longer) from Yankee hill, Troy, or DD. The longer rail with iron sights will give you the equivalent accuracy of a rifle-length 20inch profile .

With that upper you'll have a compact, reliable, accurate, and multi-purpose AR.

 

[-v-]

Any 16" will do just fine for you. I would recomend a regular or a light profile barrel as they do make the gun handier. 1:7 is preferable, but a 1:9 will cover you for most of the stuff. I would say flat-top upper and fixed front sight. This way you have flexibility of optics vs iron sights.

16 vs 18 vs 20", my personal preference is 18" as with M193 it gives up something like 10-15 fps over the 20" but does make the rifle a little handier. 16" is good, and a 14.5 with a pinned flash hider to 16" isn't bad either. With any of these you should be able to reliably put lead on target out to 500 yards easily.

Some will knock me for a light profile, and yes it does heat up faster, but it also tends to cool down faster too. Plus, if you end up carrying this rifle for extended periods of time, the lighter build will do wonders.