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JC Higgins Model 30 .22LR

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by loose noose, Jan 9, 2013.

  1. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Ok folks, I've been doing repairs on this firearm for over a month, changed the extractor, replaced the firing pin twice, and still it didn't fire every time, however it did dent the rim of the cartridge,but apparently too shallow. So I decided perhaps the hammer wasn't striking the firing pin hard enough. So I removed the hammer and noted quite a bit of dirt in an about the hammer spring, and around the disconnector. So after cleaning those areas and putting the hammer back in and the disconnector; I noticed the darn thing would not cock the hammer. Any advice on this proceedure would be greatly appreciated. I thank ya in advance.:confused:
  2. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Well I figured it out, the sear spring broke, therefore the sear woundn't engage the hammer. Replaced the sear spring and all is well. Thanks for checking that out.:D
  3. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Well-Known Member

    :D glad you figured it out
  4. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Dang, I've got another problem with that firearm, BTW it isn't a model 30 it's a 31. The rimfire cartridges are all dented properly, and 9 out of 10 will fire ok however that one cartridge just won't fire. Can anyone tell me is the .22 rimfire ammo that bad? I've used CCI, Federal, and Winchester, the CCI seems to be the most reliable. Can anyone advise me what else can it be?:confused:
  5. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Can you post a close-up photo of the dents in the rims of the ones that fired, and the ones that didn't?

    While you are at it, check the barrels breech face for a firing pin dent from dry-firing.

    If it's dented under where the firing pin hits the shell, it can cushion the blow and prevent smashing rim to rim crushing the primer compound enough to set it off.

  6. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Well-Known Member

    Make sure the firing pin is intact and/or the channel isn't full of hardened crud. Have you disassembled the bolt? You'll need a good set of punches. Be careful when removing the extractor pin/spring (if you do)... the pin is the only thing holding the extractor against the bolt side and the spring in place.

    EDIT: never mind... just reread your post and you already swapped extractors. However you didn't mention whether you removed/cleaned/inspected the firing pin.
  7. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    I've allready changed the firing pin with a new one from Numerich Gun Parts, infact I did it twice. Both pins are brand new. I've also cleaned the channel where the firing pins seat, further I don't see where the pin is striking the wall of the chamber. Here are a couple of the pics of the fired and unfired casings. The first are the unfired. Note the first CCI that didn't fire I tried it with another .22 that fires allmost everything you can stuff into it, to still no avail.


  8. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Well it looks to me like the firing pin is hitting the rims sideways from where it should be hitting.

    The retangular dent should be 90 degrees to the case, and run clear out to the edge of the rim to smash it.
    Like the left one in the top photo.

    I have no idea why some of yours are running the other way across the rim, but the firing pin must be turning in the bolt part of the time somehow.

  9. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Well-Known Member

    That is weird. I'm going to have to take a close look at mine to remind myself how the pin is secured and oriented. It looks to me like yours isn't retained properly and is being allowed to rotate or something. I've never seen anything like it.
  10. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Thanks rc & 1k, I'm not sure how to get the firing pin turned around to hit the rim proper like. I've noted the relationship of the pin inside the bolt to be cockeyed so to speak. On one of the firing pins, I've ground down the notch so as to turn it ever so slightly, so I may just go ahead and grind it down some more and see if that helps it. I'll keep ya posted.
  11. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Do you still have the original firing pin you took out to begin with?

    It could possibly work now that you fixed everything else.

    But don't grind on it!!

  12. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    The original firing pin broke, and I removed it, I ordered a new one from gun parts corp. after installing the new firing pin, and replacing the extractor, and replacing the sear spring. I still had a problem with the firearm failing to fire all the cartridges. Therefore I ordered another firing pin and installed it, and still no luck. I'm beginning to believe this rifle is just wore out, allthough it is really clean with very clean rifling.:confused:
  13. Mel1776

    Mel1776 Well-Known Member

    The question remains,"do you still have the original (broken) firing pin?" You can measure its dimensions and maybe check orientation by wear marks.
  14. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Mel1776, Yes I do have the old firing pin however there is a piece missing, so the overall length is off by about a 1/2". I'm going to check the barrel in relation to the receiver also. Sure wish I could fgure this thing out.
  15. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Can you figure out what is supposed to keep the firing pin from rotating inside the bolt??
    There must be a cross pin or something??

    Maybe post a side-view picture of the broken firing pin & bolt??

  16. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Yes near the end of the firing pin is notched, a pin goes thru the top of the bolt again near the end and it is secured by the the pin, I've tried turning the pin in the bolt but to no avail. Also I checked the relationship of the barrel to the receiver and there is no gap. Also the one firing pin I ground down the notch and it was able to turn slightly, however after firing the rifle it would stop after about 5-9 rounds. Note the rim was still being struck on the inner case, instead of the 90 degree as it should have been.
  17. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Well thats what I thought.

    I am completely baffled how the firing pin can turn 90 degrees sideways with the pin holding it from turning though.

    Is there any chance it is a replacement pin that is too small for the hole in the bolt??

  18. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    rc, No the firing pin is the exact size and style as the one that broke, I even miked them, the only difference is the length, as I previously stated, it appears a piece of the broken pin apparently fell out of the rifle.
  19. loose noose

    loose noose Well-Known Member

    Well I finally got the arm figured out, I heated the firing pin and just slightly turned the striking part to the right and then while still red hot dipped it in motor oil to re-harden the steel. Put the firing pin in the bolt, reassembled the arm, and guess what the dang thing works like a charm. It strikes the rim of a case perpindicular like it supposed to do. Whew, what a project!:rolleyes:
  20. pacrimcat

    pacrimcat New Member

    Hi, I've got a Higgins Model 30, same situation as Loose Noose, getting misfires, I can use a little screwdriver to turn my firing pin about 270 degrees. I do not understand how this can happen if the little pin through the bolt goes through a notch on the actual firing pin. Loose Noose, did you heat and then twist the firing pin to get it to hit at a 90 degree angle? Can you please explain what you did to get the firing pin to hit consistently at the 90 degree angle?

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