Just got a new Teslong Bore Scope

emb

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Can someone WIN_20240422_18_36_21_Pro.jpg WIN_20240422_18_37_00_Pro.jpg WIN_20240422_18_37_30_Pro.jpg WIN_20240422_18_38_00_Pro.jpg WIN_20240422_18_38_20_Pro.jpg WIN_20240422_18_39_34_Pro.jpg help me interpret what I'm looking at. It looks pretty rough to me. These are from the chamber out with the last one being the muzzle. Kind of wished I hadn't looked. It's a Sako 7mm Rem Mag that is about 20 years old with somewhere in the neighborhood of 500-800 rounds through it. It could be more. I never kept track.
 
I cleaned the daylights out of this before I used the bore sight. The patches came out near white. I did use some carbon remover from Break Free and JB. The first one I believe is the carbon ring that I didn't even know could exist until a few weeks ago (too much knowledge will not necessarily be enjoyed). Boy, if that's carbon, how do you remove it?
 
Can someone View attachment 1206054View attachment 1206055View attachment 1206056View attachment 1206057View attachment 1206058View attachment 1206059help me interpret what I'm looking at. It looks pretty rough to me. These are from the chamber out with the last one being the muzzle. Kind of wished I hadn't looked. It's a Sako 7mm Rem Mag that is about 20 years old with somewhere in the neighborhood of 500-800 rounds through it. It could be more. I never kept track.

Hard to be sure on this phone, but it looks like some copper in there with carbon. Carbon is still harder than a bronze brush, but if you didn't use one I would try that.
 
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I cleaned the daylights out of this before I used the bore sight. The patches came out near white. I did use some carbon remover from Break Free and JB. The first one I believe is the carbon ring that I didn't even know could exist until a few weeks ago (too much knowledge will not necessarily be enjoyed). Boy, if that's carbon, how do you remove it?
Carbon cleaner
 
Thanks. I guess I'll keep working on it. Using Free All-an automotive product-concerns me. Has anyone used it to remove carbon?
 
Just did some Break Free Carbon Cutter and 150 passes with a new bronze brush in 50 pass increments. The patches are still coming out black. Thought I'd let it soak for a couple of hours and try again. I'll post some more pictures of my progress. What is somewhat disheartening is that I've been cleaning my firearms the same way for many years. Shooter's Choice, CR10 to remove copper, followed by Shooter's Choice to remove the CR10, and then Hoppes #9 until a clean patch. I'm thinking I'm going to find pretty much the same carbon build up in all of my rifles. Ugh!
 
What is somewhat disheartening is that I've been cleaning my firearms the same way for many years.

I can relate. Several years ago I had an accurate .308 that started shooting like a shotgun. After my trouble shooting failed to identify the root cause I took it to a gunsmith. First thing he did was stick a bore scope in it and showed me how filthy it was. I was shocked and a bit embarrassed.

He lent me his bore scope, I took it home and spent hours scrubbing it till it was clean.

Accuracy returned to normal
 
I can relate. Several years ago I had an accurate .308 that started shooting like a shotgun. After my trouble shooting failed to identify the root cause I took it to a gunsmith. First thing he did was stick a bore scope in it and showed me how filthy it was. I was shocked and a bit embarrassed.

He lent me his bore scope, I took it home and spent hours scrubbing it till it was clean.

Accuracy returned to normal
In my research I found " put the bore scope away and shoot it", "ignorance is bliss", "the bore scope has created more problems than it solves", etc. But, once I become aware of an issue, I'm a bit anal in getting it resolved. I'll keep going until resolved-in this rifle and all the rest. Good to know accuracy will return. The good news is that many of my other rifles have not been shot as much as the Sako. Hopefully, they won't be as badly fouled. Now, the AR10? Still kind of wish I'd remained ignorantly happy.
 
Hard carbon on the lands and corners of the grooves and a bit of copper. Time consuming to remove.

I have my methods as does everyone else and their Uncle, no clear answer there other than a dedicated carbon only cleaner and fresh bronze brushes. One direction only brushing, or back and forth is asking for a war.

You've got the borescope now so it should be easy to tell if what you're doing and what you're using is really helping.

I use Mercury Quicksilver engine carbon remover at the range but on a hot barrel. The P.E.A.'s (active ingredients) in it are activated in a hot engine to soften hard carbon, so to me it follows suit in a barrel and the difference was immediately better. I'll be getting the Subaru stuff when it's gone as I've heard it works even better. Unfortunately the stuff they sell in Japan is strictly verboten here ...thanks Government...

I'lI tip it muzzle down spray a bunch in the chamber end and brush with a bronze brush. Do that a couple/few times and black carbon runs out the muzzle, then follow up at home with Sharp Shoot-R Carb Out. That's only my way, not the only way.
 
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Along with some of the other suggestions, for carbon sometimes I just put JB paste directly on the bronze brush and go to town. Soaking for awhile with Boretech C4 can help sometimes. Acetone also works to soften carbon, so patching and soaking with it can help. As mentioned, it's easier to clean the barrel when it's warm and also easier to keep it clean then getting it all out later after it's hardened into a crust.
 
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In my research I found " put the bore scope away and shoot it", "ignorance is bliss", "the bore scope has created more problems than it solves", etc.

Yeah, that’s all nonsense.

It’s just maintenance.

No need to change the oil in your car at regular intervals. Ignorance is bliss. Just drive it.

Looking forward to seeing the after pics
 
Well, 2 bronze brushes and 350-400 strokes later, here you go. I probably wasn't using the newest and best product, but it was what I had-Break Free CAC Carbon Cutter. I honestly don't remember when I bought it. Still had a $7 price tag on it. I finished with JB Bore Bright and Hoppes #9. The carbon ring is still there though. WIN_20240423_18_55_44_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_55_55_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_56_08_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_56_47_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_57_01_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_57_14_Pro.jpg WIN_20240423_18_57_32_Pro.jpg
 
Since I treated all of my rifles the same, I assume that I'll have the same lovely chore for each of them. And, I have more than a few rifles. I did order some Bore Tech C4 although the Break Free seemed to do a pretty good job. I don't think it is available any longer. The question is how to prevent this condition in the future? Just add a carbon removal to the routine and inspect regularly? Boy, I sure didn't know about this before. That's how I usually learn. Getting solidly kicked upside the head. Now, you have my full attention. Thank you for your help.
 
I just do a JB Bore Paste treatment every 500-800 rounds (in addition to my regular cleaning) and it seems to keep things in check pretty well. Some powders also seem to build it up quicker than others.
 
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It’s much better. You still have some in that stubborn first few inches of the bore. It’s a pain in the ass to remove when it’s built up over time.

Once you have it gone it will be a much easier task to stay on top of it.
 
Thank you. I plan on shooting this rifle this weekend. Although it's primarily a hunting rifle, it's capable of sub minute groups at 200 yds. It'll be interesting to the difference.
 
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