Just ordered an M&P9

[Zhivago]

I just ordered an M&P9 from Bud's Gun Shop, should be at my local FFL for pickup in about 2 weeks (counting shipping and WA 5 day waiting period). So, of course, I'm very excited. I was just wondering if anyone out there had some advice about accessories to check out or cleaning products or tips they found that worked really well with the M&P series. I've been bouncing around trying to figure out what to buy for a while, shifting between the M&P and the XDM and the Px4 and the P30...finally settled on the M&P because of the 2 free magazines deal S&W has going on. Of course when I have the money I'd love to pick up the others too!

 

[FieroCDSP]

Hmm... should have had them ship it to Dan Burwell first, then to you. At least then it could have gone from KY to PA, then to Seattle, Rather than double the distance.

The M&P trigger fresh from the box will be gritty. Give it 300-500 rounds and that grit will be gone. Then you're just left with some over-travel and a 6lb trigger, give or take. Time and rounds will lighten it.
Or you can send it to Dan Burwell and get a stage one trigger job done and have a fantastic shooter. I think he can lighten it reliably down to 3.5 lbs, but that's hardly necessary. The stage one is just fine.

For cleaning and lube, I primarily use Weapon Shield CLP, but I usually end up using something else to get copper fouling out. Weapon Shield does a great basic cleaning, though.

 

[Zhivago]

That reminds me...is there somewhere online to find a good FAQ or tutorial or whatever about cleaning semi-auto pistols? Or the M&P in particular even better? I've only dealt with revolvers before, this is my first semi-auto and I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the choices of cleaning products and where oil goes and where grease goes and where they DONT go and so on...any help would be appreciated.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

I've only dealt with revolvers before, this is my first semi-auto and I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the choices of cleaning products and where oil goes and where grease goes and where they DONT go and so on...

Lubrication points are something that most firearms' owner's manuals could be a little more helpful with. When you field strip it for the first time and watch the slide and barrel cycle you will get a feel for where the contact surfaces are. I typically lube mine with Break-Free CLP in the squeeze bottles with nozzle applicator. I put a drop on each frame rail insert, on the front chamber shoulder of the barrel, a thin film around the outside of the front of the barrel, on the frame locking block where the barrel cams in and out of battery, and on the rail in the center of the underside of the slide. There is no need to lube it until everything is dripping; moderation is the key. The barrel (which incorporates the chamber unlike a revolver) simply swabs out with a bore brush as you normally would, and I use an old toothbrush and Gun Scrubber or equivalent to clean up other areas. If you use these harsh solvents, choose the "synthetic safe" versions, just to be on the safe side.

 

[Zhivago]

As far as different products for cleaning, what do I actually need? I look around and the options include "Gun Oil" and "Lubricant and Protectant" and "Dry Lube" and "Heavy Duty Bore Cleaner" and "Synthetic Bore and Action Cleaner" and "Bore Gel" and so on...

All the different terms/options have me a bit confused and I cant seem to find a guide anywhere. Does CLP clean copper/lead residue, lubricate and protect from corrosion/rust all in one?

 

[Zhivago]

From other stuff I read, respected instructors recommend some other stuff besides CLP.

Larry Vickers recommends TW25B grease and Militec lube.

Pat Rogers recommended Tetra products if I recall.

Any experience with those?

 

[Disaster]

IMHO the trigger is just fine on the M&P. After all, other than the pivoting trigger, there is no safety. Most of the "grit", as he suggests, cleans up with wear. The actual trigger break, is crisp, with zero creep.

 

[RON in PA]

I have a M&P40 and an M&P9. Both accurate and reliable shooters. Give the trigger 500 rounds to break-in. You might have a few failures to feed in the first few magazines as things wear-in. When you get your gun load the magazines to full capacity and let them sit over night loaded. I've found that doing so makes them easier to load the first range session.

Don't sweat the maintenance, the M&P is a low maintenance firearm. READ your owner's manual first and then clean and lube your gun following the instructions in the manual before you shoot it. IMHO you only need one product and that's Break-Free.

Enjoy, they are sweet shooters.

 

[Disaster]

Here are some great accessories to check out:

1. IWB holster. If you are going to carry look into a good IWB holster. One with a sweat shield will help protect the gun more.

2. Crimson Trace Laser grips. Best night sights available.

3. Lots and lots of cheap Walmart ammo. The best accessory is lots of ammo and lots of practice. Blazer Brass is the least expensive stuff they've got now...about $9 for a box of 50. Also check out their red target dot stickers. Great for getting more mileage out of your targets.

4. Snap caps for dry fire practice. This is almost as important as practicing with life ammo and wayyyy cheaper.

5. Check out the MP forum. You will find many answers to your questions there.
http://mp-pistol.com/boards/index.php?act=idx

 

[19-3Ben]

1. IWB holster. If you are going to carry look into a good IWB holster. One with a sweat shield will help protect the gun more.

Excellent advice. Except I find that the sweat shield is needed more to protect ME from the gun. I really like the slide serrations on my M&P's (I have both the full sized 9, and the C9), but I find that without a sweat shield, the serrations are like a cheese grater on my back.

I love the pistol (if I didn't I wouldn't have two!). But that's my only qualm.

 

[jon_in_wv]

Good for you on your choice. Ignore the nonsense about the bad triggers on the M&P. It does not need a trigger job. All striker fired guns that I have handled have a terrible feeling trigger when they are dry fired. The feeling goes away when you shoot it. My M&P trigger feels very comparable with my Hi-Power, like a single action with a longer take up and reset. I own 2 M&Ps and they are both stellar weapons.

 

[Zhivago]

I rented both the M&P9 and M&P40 along with a number of other guns at my range multiple times before deciding. I never had any qualms about the M&P trigger except that the break wasnt as well defined as I would I have liked but I'm not going to do a trigger job on a new gun without giving it a chance out of the box and a nice long break in period. After that, maybe. From my renting, all polymer pistols seemed pretty similar as far as the trigger but I wouldnt call myself a descriminating judge of triggers either. Of the ones I tried, I really liked the M&P, Px4, XDM as far as fit and feel. For me, in spite of having big hands, glock was a so-so feel, nothing bad but not as good as the others, not that I would complain about having one and probably will some day.

 

[Happiness Is A Warm Gun]

I agree with the others on a good 500 round break in.

After I bought my 9c I wasn't very happy first day at the range. The combination of the "gritty" trigger and first time firing a compact left me wanting more.

After 500 or so rounds I compared it to my friends Glock 9mm subcompact while we were at the range and I really like the way the 9c fits my hand better, and the natural point of aim, the Glock trigger seemed to have slightly better break. Overall I think the 9c was better choice for me.

Over last 4 months I have put about 2000 WWB for practice and 300 124gr HST to confirm reliability and never had any malfunctions. The M&P is a line of guns that needs a good break in after that it is golden.

Regarding choice of oils.... I guess I am "old school" in the Army I used CLP to clean, lube, and protect. Never needed anything else. It works great on M&P also. I keep it simple. Use CLP to clean. Keep cleaning until rag & patches come back clean. I dry the weapon and then use couple drops of CLP to lube the points recommended (don't worry it is in the manual). Nice thing about CLP is it is cheap compared to "exotic" cleaners. I use a lot to clean and a little to lube.

 

[FieroCDSP]

Aside from the field-stripping instructions the only other thing you'll ever need to fuss over is the striker. This is easy to remove and only needs wiped down with a clean rag, no lube at all.

Remove slide and hold it vertically, muzzle end down, bottom facing you. Push in the striker safety (the silver button on the left) and push the striker down. Using a small, flat screwdriver, push the plastic piece visible under the striker down. This moves the striker sleeve down and frees the end-cap to be removed. Slide off the end-cap. Release the striker and gently pull up on it. You will have to push in the striker safety again to remove it.

Wipe it down, especially the firing pin tip, as it will build up some crud on it over time. You can remove the spring, but it's not really necessary. I use a .177 caliber nylon brush with a thin patch wrapped around it to clean out the channel. Reverse to reassemble.

 

[Zhivago]

Something I didnt really think about until just now...what kind of case/box is the M&P shipped in? Could someone post a pic? If it's a crappy little flimsy plastic one I probably want to get a briefcase style case for it.

 

[kokapelli]

I've used every CLP product out there and nothing, works like............