lead bullets for 45 ACP

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ybuck44

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I am new to loading for auto pistols and would like some advice on bullet moulds and basic bullet designs that would work well. This is a 1911 I will be carrying for self defense in wolf country so any bullet needs to have good terminal performance.
 
I'm shooting a 200 gr fp commercial cast bullet in my 1911. The biggest thing to watch for is to get the taper crimp set right so it doesn't bite the bullet and cause chambering problems.
 
One of the most popular bullets, besides a 230 gr RN, is the H&G 68 clone, a 200 gr. lead semi-wadcutter. It can be loaded "soft/light" for target shooting or loaded "up" for SD (I have some near max. loads of Unique, for round 900 fps book velocity with my cast SWC for my carry 1911)...
 
I shoot a lot of 186/200gr LSWC, there are lots of choices. Look for bullets in the 12 BH range since the 45acp is a low pressure round. Would be best to know your bore size so you can get a proper fit. So Slug your barrel if you haven't yet.
 
Cast 230 RN's and FP's(flat point) with 4.5 grains of Bullseye for eons. Feeds like stink and is a nice target load. Also works extremely well on bowling pins away back when. Lee makes a 6 cavity mold, Midway wants $41.99 for. Only issue with casting is having a well ventilated place to do it and finding lead.
You really have nothing to be frightened of with wolves though.
 
200 grain SWC with bullseye powder is a classic. Not much expansion needed on a small four leg critter when the entrance and exit hole is 45 cal. The general rule of thumb on seating is having the front diving band protruding about the thickness of a finger nail from the case mouth, but as always your results may vary. Next up would be a TC profile bullet, followed by a round nose. NOE makes some really nice hollow point molds if your interested.
 
I have shot a boat load of 230 grain RNL bullets with 700-X through mine. These days I am getting a bit lazy and have been ordering them from Missouri Bullet (Soft Ball) instead of casting them, they feed good and shoot accurately enough for me. Soon I am going to make a batch and try powder coating them as lubing is what takes the time. If it works out I will start making my own again. I tried the 200 grain SWC and they did not "feel" good to me and I was less accurate on target so I went back to the 230 grain. YMMV
 
My main 45 ACP load for decades has been 230 RN with 700-X. (Follow your reloading manual for powder charge). I've used home cast lubricated, home cast powder coated, plated, purchased cast and jacketed bullets. They are accurate for me and function reliably.

I've never had much luck getting 185-200 grain SWC bullets to feed reliably in my M1911s until I recently got a Gold Cup. I shoot only target level loads with 200 SWC bullets in the Gold Cup and shoot the standard 230 RN loads in the other M1911s.

I dabbled with hollow point bullets many, many years ago but they did not seem to expand reliably, if at all, at 45 ACP velocities. So I decided it was not worth the expense of shooting them. The current crop of hollow point bullets may perform better but I have not tried any of them.
 
I would prefer something with a flat wide nose that feeds well in your gun.

Any reason in particular you are wanting to use cast for wolves? They are small enough that I would think a nice conservative expanding hollow point would do a better job.
 
I always vote for L-SWC. H&G #68 or clone is best.
My top choices are Zero 200gn swaged L-SWC and Precision Bullets 200gn swaged and coated L-SWC.
One big hole all the way through beats an expanding bullet that stops in the wolf.
 
I've got a few lead bullets I like in the .45 ACP.

155 gr SWC
Lyman 452389, as close to a full wadcutter as I load in the .45
H&G 68 or clone
NOE TL452-230 hollow point This is the bullet I use in my EDC. Big hollow point with weight.
 
Before I started shooting Bullseye pistol, I decided that the most reliable bullet configuration I could use in a M1911 was the 230 RN, be it a FMJ or LRN. The platform was designed for a 230 FMJ RN, that bullet will feed when others jam up on the ramp. It really was not until the 1990's that firearms companies began to regularly polish the feed ramp and throat the barre of a M1911, (good pics here: http://www.gunownersofcanada.ca/sho...-of-1911-s&s=2a7d0f09d82fab601d1627e218d7fab7) before then, you had to go to a gunsmith.

This Clackamus Kimber was an early M1911 that came with all the bells and whistles that you used to have to pay Gunsmiths to add, after buying the pistol:

UDTzO8.jpg



It was only till I started Bullseye pistol that I went back to the H&G 68, 200 gr LSWC, as there is less recoil and it punches a bigger hole in a paper target. I cannot say it is any more accurate than the RN bullet, but it could. I know this bullet was being used in Bullseye Competition as far back are the early 1950's, for Clark wrote an article in the American Rifleman recommending this bullet and a load of 3.5 grains Bullseye. This works at 25 yards but there is too much bullet drop at 50 yards, and my Les Baer Wadcutter has an ultradot dot on top. The extra weight sometimes causes a failure to feed. Four grains of Bullseye with the 200 LSWC works well as a target load all the way out to 50 yards, it is traveling at 740 fps and punches a nice square hole.


TJhPuO.jpg
 
Looking at the SWC type bullets here is a pic of three good ones that usually shoot very well and can be loaded from light target to top end for protection. The one in the middle is the HG-68 that was mentioned above,

20170704_051420-819x461.jpg
(L-R HG-130, HG-68, HG-78)​
Of these, personally I would use the 130 or 78 for your intentions due to 1) being able to get a touch more velocity from the 130, or 2) having a bit more weight with the 78. The 130 usually runs around 185'ish grains and the 78 around 215-220"ish depending on the alloy. Feeding with these has not been an issue in any of the 45's I have loaded them for, where I have found the 68 to be a touch more finicky with feeding properly. I think the shorter fatter noses of the other two simply alloy it to feed more freely.

As for RNFP's, I would look over at Accurate or NOE molds and see what they have to offer. Accurate has plenty different ones that might easily be a better fit, and with NOE you might also have the option of pouring HP's as well. You might also give MP molds a look and touch base with Mehic to see if he has the 200gr Hp mold available. Cast with around a 20-1 alloy these are very nice. Here is a preview of them, they can also be poured as a RNFP if desired.​
452 200 Reduced.jpg
 
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