Lead fouling ?

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BluewaterLa

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I've always shot and loaded jacketed projectiles. Due to cost and availability of components I have been interested in lead.
My question about lead is I don't understand when reading info and post is how does powder charge increase or decrease lead fouling in a barrel?
Thanks for any info to help me understand this :uhoh:
 
At certain high pressures, the gasses can force their way around the soft lead, melting it on the rifling. At certain high speeds, the projo can "wipe" off of itself onto the rifling. There's a bit of science to it, but it's not all that hard to learn. I just got into casting, so these are bare minimums I'm giving you, there are many more knowledgeable folks around here to help, but that's the "barney style" answer
 
At certain high pressures, the gasses can force their way around the soft lead, melting it on the rifling.

What I've found is that hard cast lead bullets will lead with low pressure loads as the base doesn't bump the base up enough to fill the bore allowing the hot gas to bypass the base and melt the bullet sides to the bore. Usually this leads to leading at the chamber end of the barrel. This epiphany came after reading a posting on the pre-internet gun boards maybe 30 years ago after trying cast bullets for a few years and being puzzled as to why I was getting leading with hard bullets and low pressure and velocity loads under 1,000 fps.

The posting said that hard bullets needed to have their base obturate by enough pressure to where it fills the bore and prevents gas blow by melting the bullet on the barrel. The harder the bullet the greater the pressure needed. So I went out and loaded some of the hard cast I had behind 12.2 grs of AA9 in a .357 mag case and tried it. To my surprise and delight there was no leading in the barrel that couldn't be removed using a single pass with a patch soaked in Hoppes.

Soft bullets do well at lower pressures so I will load soft swagged or cast bullets in the .38 spl and .45 acp. Don't even try using hard cast in such low pressure cartridges.

If you read the FAQ's at Missouri Bullet Company you will find a good explanation.
 
BluewaterLa said:
how does powder charge increase or decrease lead fouling
As Steve posted, lead bullets require high enough initial chamber pressures to bump/deform/expand the bullet base and compress the lube channel to create "O-ring" to seal the bullet with the barrel which reduce/eliminate leading from less high pressure gas leakage around the bullet. High pressure gas leakage around the bullet causes gas cutting (as brief powder burn don't have enough time to actually melt lead) which deposits carbon fouling and lead in the rifling. You can achieve higher initial chamber pressures by using more powder but slower burn rate powders (slower than Unique/Universal) may not produce high enough initial chamber pressures with start-to-mid range powder charges and you may need to use high-to-near max load data before sufficient initial chamber pressures are produced. With faster burn rate powders (W231/HP-38 and faster), even low to mid-range powder charges may produce high enough initial chamber pressures to sufficiently bump/deform/expand the bullet base.

I used to use harder 22-24 BHN commercial "hard cast" lead bullets but found I needed to push them hard (near max/max lead load data) even with fast burn rate powders to reduce leading. Due to these reasons, many recommend the use of .001"+ oversized bullets with near max/max lead load data to reduce leading under the mantra of "bullet-to-barrel fit is king". Well, this is true but if your barrel is oversized (and many factory barrels are), using larger sized lead bullets .001" over won't always allow the finished rounds to fully chamber in the barrel (especially with thicker walled cases). Also, based on my experience, the most accurate loads don't always occur at near max/max load data. Often, accurate loads are identified at mid range and most accurate loads at high range load data as near max/max load data may overdrive the lead bullet in respect to rifling.

Then on THR, I found Missouri Bullet Company with softer 10/12/15/18/20 BHN bullets!!! With 18 BHN bullets in 9/40/45, my leading problem went away even with low to mid-range load data. When I got leading problem and poor accuracy with Taurus PT145's oversized barrel and 18 BHN bullet (IDP #1), simply changing to softer 12 BHN (Bullseye #1) solved my leading problem and accuracy returned as softer lead alloy sufficiently bumped/deformed/expanded even with lighter target loads to seal the high pressure gas.

So, slug your barrel and if they are oversized (.355"+, .400"+, .451"+ etc.) and you don't want to use max load data or oversized bullets that won't fully chamber in your barrel, use lower BHN bullets. BTW, Dardas Cast Bullets advertises 16 BHN and Z-Cast Bullets advertises 14-16 BHN (both Missouri Bullet Company and Dardas Cast Bullets offer 5% THR discount). There are other casters who offer softer than 20 BHN bullets but Dardas/Missouri/Z-Cast bullets are what I use and do not get leading in my Glock/Lone Wolf/KKM, M&P, Sig and Taurus barrels even when using low to mid range load data.

If you want more information on the definition, cause, prevention and removal of leading, check out Glen Fryxell's free ebook's Chapter 7 on leading - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm
 
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I am hardcasting even harder and gas checking and using some of my bullets above 2500 fps and not having leading issues. There are a multitude of issues. First off the bullet has to match your bore. After that you have to use a bullet that matches the velocity so it will seal during the powder burn and to do the the base needs to have a specific shape.

To light a bullet will give you leading problems too and be dirty and there are times that you have to load that way. For example I load sks loads for kids with a 70 grain 32 ACP bullet. The bullet is short and does not give a good seal because the headspace is to large but it does not lead the barrel because I insert a gas check into the case mouth backwards under the 70 grain bullet and this protects the bullet base and cleans the bore.
 
The advice above will help prevent leading. I would also add that leading is not the end of the world as some would have you believe. It is, in no way, desirable, but it is not difficult to remove. I am pretty new to casting and I still get leading on some loads until I adjust them properly.

Leading severely drops the accuracy of your barrel and it can happen quickly under the right conditions such as undersized bullets, under/overpowered loads or insufficient or improper lube. The heavier it gets, the worse your accuracy is going to get. In no way does it "Ruin" the barrel, however. You just need to remove it. There are commercial lead removal kits that are not very expensive or you can use the chore boy method like many here do. You find a copper, not just copper plated, chore boy. Cut it into strands and wrap those strands around an old brush and clean the barrel with it until the leading is gone.
 
I'd also like to point out that using a properly applied gas check not only eliminates any actual obturation, but scrapes 99% of the leading that may occur right out of your barrel.

Gas checks are not required for use at pistol pressures/velocities if you are willing to do the work to fit them to your gun.

If you aren't willing to do that work, or are going 40k+ PSI or 1700+ FPS get gas-checked bullets, and nary a leaded bore will you have.
 
Before we had jacketed/plated bullets, factory/reloaded ammunition were ALL lead bullets of varying alloy mixture and hardness.

All FMJ, JHP, CMJ (FMJ with metal disk covering lead base), TMJ (ATK/Speer trademarked thick plated bullets) and plated bullets are essentially lead bullets with full-length gas checks to be driven at higher velocities without leading the barrel. ;):D
 
Thats correct bluewater !

Think of a gas-check as a 2mm long bullet jacket :D

It not only seals the bore against gas blowby, but serves kinda like a scraper, removing all that lead and bullet lube from the rifling on each shot.

For that reason when shooting lead bullets during load development, I frequently mix in gas-checked rounds for just that purpose.
 
Good to know this as I was interested in expanding my hobbie into a full blown addiction :D might dabble a little in casting in the future allin the name of saving money Right :banghead: haha
Thanks for the replies this site and members are great ! Glad I joined.
 
You may or may not experience a leading issue. It's hard to know until you actually buy, load and shoot some.
 
You may or may not experience a leading issue. It's hard to know until you actually buy, load and shoot some.

Exactly! Lead is very different than jacketed. There are some of us that actually load and shoot lead bullets and those that read a lot and "theorize" how to do it.
If you do experience leading don't increase the load. Gas going around the bullet is called "cutting" and increasing the load will only make it worse.
 
Exactly! Lead is very different than jacketed. There are some of us that actually load and shoot lead bullets and those that read a lot and "theorize" how to do it.
If you do experience leading don't increase the load. Gas going around the bullet is called "cutting" and increasing the load will only make it worse.
"If you do experience leading don't increase the load. Gas going around the bullet is called "cutting" and increasing the load will only make it worse."

This^^^ is NOT always true..Need to read some post up thread..Especially the link by Brad @ Missouri Bullets...Bill.
 
This^^^ is NOT always true..Need to read some post up thread..Especially the link by Brad @ Missouri Bullets...Bill.
__________________
Bill, perhaps not always with every cartridge. Lower pressure rounds like .45 or .38special may benefit from increased pressure. But 9mm and 40s&w do not. Increasing the pressure if its leading is asking for trouble. I read Brads [Missouri Bullet] write up on hardness and pressure years ago. Since then I've come to my own conclusions through actual competitive shooting. I load and shoot well over 1000 rounds a month of lead 9 & 40 rounds, I know what I'm doing. Bullet fit to bore is the most important thing. The bullet must be at least 1/1000 larger than your bore. I shoot bullets sized to .357 in 9mm.
 
I shoot bullets sized to .357 in 9mm.

Same here=My CZ's and Glocks both like that diameter. I also shoot .402" bullets in my .40 S&W's.:uhoh:

You are right the main factor IS the bullet to barrel fit. I also think that the lube makes a difference. I do NOT shoot any tumble lube type of lead. I like the wide single lube groove filled with Jakes Red...Bill.
 
Typical of all threads on cast bullets, there's conflicting information.

1) Gas checks do NOT scrape lead out of barrels. Remember, they're pressed on the base of the bullet and are easily pulled off.
2) Gas check do NOT prevent obturation, they do however AID in preventing gas cutting, which causes leading.
3) A little leading really is no big deal and any leading is quite easily removed.


Go here and read, starting at the beginning, until you've finished. THEN you'll know more. If you have any more questions, I'd strongly suggest you go here because the really knowledgeable cast bullet folks tend to hang out at...cast bullet forums!

35W
 
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And here's one more - http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCBAlloyObturation.htm
Obturation is the plastic deformation of the cast bullet alloy due to the force of the expanding gases on the bullet's base ... cast bullets do indeed obturate, given that the alloy is appropriate for the pressures generated.

In the intervening years, extensive experimentation has revealed the empirical correlation of 3 x 480 x Brinell Hardness Number (BHN) (or more simply, 1440 x BHN) as an estimate of the minimum peak pressure required for bullet obturation ... Thus, a bullet with a BHN of 24 (typical of commercial hard-cast bullets) will not undergo plastic deformation and obturate until pressures exceed 34,000 psi.
 
"Dabbling" in casting is akin to reloading to "save" money.

Saeco is owed naughty bits of my anatomy upon my demise.

You've been warned !
 
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1) Gas checks do NOT scrape lead out of barrels. Remember, they're pressed on the base of the bullet and are easily pulled off.

My experience differs. While gas checks may be easily pulled off when applied incorrectly- checks that have a detent ( like hornady, for example) are not. And in any event, the "pulling" doesn't happen in a confined barrel. Sure, you could pry one off with your finger. Thats totally different from an ignition. The pressure hits the check and bullet, pushing it forward. On soft checks the force centers on the check, causing it to slightly release from the bullet, flexing outward at the rim. That'd be great if it happened every time- but we can only hope. Most often it stays firmly crimped on the end of the bullet, pushing all of the softer materials in its path forward under pressure like a plunger.

I have some theories about bullets that discard the check due to buckling at ignition- WEight of the bullet/ speed/ discarding sabot/etc... but myself and my wife are still doing the math on those. Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of it at some point.

Much like a jacketed bullet, copper gas checks ( which obturate much differently than lead, and do not melt at the same temperature) will indeed push melted lead from rifling right out of the barrel of a gun.

Similar to a high speed chisel ( for lack of a better visualized analogy) upon impact with another material, the impacted material will either move- or obstruct. Lead does not obstruct the harder copper edge of a gas check. If it did not, the gas check would lodge in the barrel. Doesn't happen to me, maybe it does to you. Only you can tell.

I do it often (clearing lead fouled barrels with jacketed and gas checked bullets), thats my evidence.

2) Gas check do NOT prevent obturation, they do however AID in preventing gas cutting, which causes leading.

I stand corrected- they don't prevent it- but the obturation of a gas check bullet differs significantly from that of a lead alloy only bullet. Even jacketed bullets obturate- thats true. What gas checks do is indeed prevent the gas cutting on the base of bullets. I should have spoken.......better.

If they didn't obturate, they wouldn't push all that messy lead out of the barrel, they would skip right along. Since they do, and conform the the bore, they do indeed push those softer metals and lube right out.


3) A little leading really is no big deal and any leading is quite easily removed.

I agree.

The method I use is usually a high speed jacketed or gas-checked bullet.

Some folks use a lead remover- like Chore boy, or another lead fouling remover. This technique forces a harder than lead substance ( like copper, for instance) at the speed of your hand whilst wrapped around a dowel to scrape it from the barrel by forcing the bead or edge of copper against the rifling and bore surface of your barrel.

Why this would work at 1 fps and not 1000 fps is beyond me. One is laborious, one takes two pounds of pull and a fraction of a second.

really knowledgeable cast bullet folks tend to hang out at...cast bullet forums!

As much as it pains me, here we go again.......

Why would you send someone away from HERE, who is looking for help HERE, when they are already HERE, ?

So, I offer some reasoning on why I think thats not the best Idea;

They aren't the only sharp tacks on the block- and I'll add that they also like really objectionable terms at that site- like this one, for instance :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?26524-Just-the-facts-Lube-recipes

"Pinko Commie Fag lube"

Why you would send someone from the highroad into that kind of muckery is beyond me- and why I asked that again, we could have a cast bullet section here.

If you or your other expert friends have more information to offer- bring it here ! We've got click ads too, and honestly, I'd rather support this community than send information seekers back into the dark ages.

The verbiage mentioned above is.........tame.........compared to some of the commentary presented there. You've been warned- its not very kid friendly, at the very least.

Maybe that floats your boat. Maybe it don't.

If thats acceptable to you, by all means- surf away. When you wonder why the rest of the folks who vote your rights away think you're neanderthals for allowing that, and immediately connecting it to gun ownership- don't bark up my tree.

However, if you wish- you can go there and find out that the information presented here is indeed, accurate.



Have a great weekend.
 
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My experience differs. <snip>
Much like a jacketed bullet, copper gas checks ( which obturate much differently than lead, and do not melt at the same temperature) will indeed push melted lead from rifling right out of the barrel of a gun.

Similar to a high speed chisel ( for lack of a better visualized analogy) upon impact with another material, the impacted material will either move- or obstruct. Lead does not obstruct the harder copper edge of a gas check. If it did not, the gas check would lodge in the barrel. Doesn't happen to me, maybe it does to you. Only you can tell.

I do it often (clearing lead fouled barrels with jacketed and gas checked bullets), thats my evidence.

I too have cleared lead fouling from (pistol) barrels back when I used to shoot a few jacketed bullets. But this does not mean gas checks "push" lead out of barrels. If this were true, then gas checked, cast bullets would never lead a barrel, which they do. Read Chapter 10 of From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners
and see what an expert has to say on the subjects of gas checks.

I stand corrected- they don't prevent it- but the obturation of a gas check bullet differs significantly from that of a lead alloy only bullet. Even jacketed bullets obturate- thats true. What gas checks do is indeed prevent the gas cutting on the base of bullets. I should have spoken.......better.

If they didn't obturate, they wouldn't push all that messy lead out of the barrel, they would skip right along. Since they do, and conform the the bore, they do indeed push those softer metals and lube right out.

A gas check, or a bullet for that matter, will only obturate if it is smaller in diameter that the groove of the barrel in which it is being fired. If it is the same size or larger, there's no place for it to obturate to.

<snip>

As much as it pains me, here we go again.......

Why would you send someone away from HERE, who is looking for help HERE, when they are already HERE, ?

So, I offer some reasoning on why I think thats not the best Idea;

They aren't the only sharp tacks on the block- and I'll add that they also like really objectionable terms at that site- like this one, for instance :

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?26524-Just-the-facts-Lube-recipes

"Pinko Commie Fag lube"

Why you would send someone from the highroad into that kind of muckery is beyond me- and why I asked that again, we could have a cast bullet section here.

If you or your other expert friends have more information to offer- bring it here ! We've got click ads too, and honestly, I'd rather support this community than send information seekers back into the dark ages.

The verbiage mentioned above is.........tame.........compared to some of the commentary presented there. You've been warned- its not very kid friendly, at the very least.

Maybe that floats your boat. Maybe it don't.

If thats acceptable to you, by all means- surf away. When you wonder why the rest of the folks who vote your rights away think you're neanderthals for allowing that, and immediately connecting it to gun ownership- don't bark up my tree.

However, if you wish- you can go there and find out that the information presented here is indeed, accurate.

Have a great weekend.

Seriously?!?!? Are you that easily offended? I send people to that site because of some of the levels of GROSS misinformation on cast bullets that I've seen here, i.e.- your first quote above.

A quick search of "fag" on this forum netted 104 threads containing that term.
Some referred to firearms serial numbers containing FAG as a serial number prefix. Some of these threads subsequently contained the expected good natured banter and ribbing.
Others referred to "fags" as cigarettes, which is an old British term.
Yet other threads referred to "fag bags" which I think was a reference to a body bag in the Vietnam War, but not positive on that one.
And finally, there are threads that refer to fanny packs as "fag bags". I think we all know what that means.

35W
 
Seriously?!?!? Are you that easily offended? I send people to that site because of some of the levels of GROSS misinformation on cast bullets that I've seen here, i.e.- your first quote above.

Nope, thicker skin than that, netwise.

However, the inference here is certain. The response I got when I asked the staff if that was normal however, spoke volumes.

As I said- those type of vulgar epithets are about the last thing I can think of tht helps our position. When I find them here, I point them out, and they get moderated. Kinda nice when we can whitewash/police ourselves for public viewing.

The fact that they refuse to is its own kind of... statement, but its not one that I think is reflective of all of us.

A gas check, or a bullet for that matter, will only obturate if it is smaller in diameter that the groove of the barrel in which it is being fired. If it is the same size or larger, there's no place for it to obturate to.

We're both dscribing the same phenomena here, using different terms . Thats what obturation is, yes. As I mentioned, I described how that works with copper VS lead poorly originally.

But this does not mean gas checks "push" lead out of barrels.

Then is the lead running away ?

Yes, you can get leading with a GC bullet- one thats sized incorrectly. Thats the root of most leading issues to begin with. I didn't argue that with you, because its true.

I encourage everyone to read that page completely. It's some good info.
 
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