Lee Auto Prime

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They're cheap enough that you should have two like I do. I have one set up for large primers and one set up for small primers.
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Dodge, now that's a great idea! I was going to order a spare handle (just in case), but I think I will order another one and setup for SP/LP. (hundreds of thousands of hand primed cases and no broken handle, so another setup will be convenient) :D

I used to use Breakfree/motor oil for lubrication, but testing synthetic boat trailer bearing grease I have in the garage. Sandwich bag with small corner tip cut or plastic syringe without the needle make good precision applicator for the grease too.
 
So, from reading this thread, I take it that I'm not the only guy that likes to have a bunch of cases all cleaned, polished and primed before I actually start reloading? I'll actually sit down and prime cases until I either have a bucketful of them or run out of primers, then when I want to load some up it goes very quickly.

I do this with every caliber I load, but usually have to do them one at a time because the carpal tunnel in my wrists and arthritis in the thumbs don't agree with the Auto Prime. I'm thinking about buying one of those Auto Prime II's now, that looks like exactly what I've been needing.
 
rondog, I switched to hand priming after getting too frustrated with small pistol primer attachment with the Pro 1000. What I found out at the range is that all the seasoned match shooters hand primed their cases (40S&W is my match caliber and uses small pistol primer). And most of these match shooters do not have primer attachment issues with their non-Lee brand progressive presses. :D

They said one round that do not fire will cost them enough time penalty to lose the stage. Hand priming is an insurance that all of their rounds will go "bang".

Since I have switched to hand priming, I find myself being even more relaxed while resizing/depriming and hand priming cases because I can do these steps while watching TV. I love it! The added bonus is that when I reload, the amount of force needed to work the ram lever is very minimal just to flare/powder charge and seat/taper crimp the case (typically 2-3 finger pressure).
 
I found two handloaded rounds of .40 at the range yesterday. One had the primer seated flush and had no primer strike, but one had a light strike and the primer was still high.

I hand prime all my ammo, although not in the primer being discussed.
 
Thanks for the jinx. I read this message last night and the first thing I do today is break the handle after using it for a year.
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I don't break them, but I bend 'em too far sometimes. Darn them Winchester cases have tight primer pockets on their 7.62X54R cases.
 
"I'll bet those new shell holders I just ordered will measure about .030 thou. smaller in diameter and about the same amount less in height and shazamm!! in they go."

You gonna lose that bet.

I've had two Lee Autoprimers for some 20 or more years, thousands of primers (including a LOT of Federals) with no breakage, no problems, no failures to fire. Wonder if it matters how someone uses the tool??
 
I love my Auto Prime too. Years ago mine broke after thousands of shells being primed and Lee sent me the part at no charge. It actually was what they call the connecting rod. I went and bought a second Lee. I started with the Lee in 1980 and am on my third one. I also do have some spare parts from the broken ones but I still love it. It has good sensitivity I feel. You do realize that the low price is because of the materials that it is made of. Love it anyway. I was reloading with Arnold Schwartzenegher once and he broke the handle off my RCBS press. We need some humor ...
 
I had my kid priming some .223 brass one night and he managed to break the lever trying to prime a shell I missed the military crimp on. The lever is really the only weak link.

That said, I couldn't find a local shop which had the Lee Auto Prime, let alone spare parts. I wanted to get back to loading that night, so I ended up buying a Hornady priming tool. I thought that for three times the money it should be a great tool, right?

I hate it. If anyone out there has a Lee and wants to trade just PM me and I'll put it all in a box for you.

The good:
It does use conventional shell holders (but requires two trays to support the different styles)
The metal parts are made of stronger material
The trays are large enough to dump a whole box of the primers into, even the brands where they are spaced far apart (Federal?)
If you use the lid correctly it is possible to shut off the feed with primers in the tray and lay it on the bench without it leaking primers.

The bad:
Changing from large to small is a royal PiTA
The trays don't flip primers as well as the Lee does
There is a dead spot in the center of the tray.
Getting the cover on requires that the center dead spot is clear.
Each tray is set up for large and small, directly opposite each other. While you're trying to flip primers over and keep them out of the middle they can migrate towards the far (open) side.
Even with the lid on it is possible for small primers to flip upside down.

I grew up using a Lee Auto Prime so I already knew about the type specific shell holders. They're cheap and quite easy to swap out.

If Lee would increase the size of the tray for the larger primer boxes and make the lever out of non-Chinese reject scrap metal I would pay double for it.
 
If Lee would increase the size of the tray for the larger primer boxes and make the lever out of non-Chinese reject scrap metal I would pay double for it.
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Take the broken lever to a metal/machine shop and they can probably make one out of steel.

I thought about doing that, but I still haven't managed to break my handle. I must be doing something wrong??? :uhoh:

I start with light one thumb pressure. If I run into any resistance, I check for military crimp. Once I get the primer started, if I need to seat the primer harder/deeper (like S&B cases), I use two thumb pressure. Make sure you lube all the contact points before each priming session - that REALLY helps. I use Breakfree/motor oil, but looking to test synthetic bearing grease.
 
I still haven't managed to break my handle. I must be doing something wrong???
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Come on bds, your gonna have to try harder. :D

Any equipment can be broken if pushed beyond its design limits.
 
Come on bds, your gonna have to try harder.
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I am, I am. :) All of my primers are seated waaaaaay below the case bottom and no more failure to ignite since I started hand priming. Heck, I even flatten some of the brass Winchester/PMC/Wolf and chrome Magtech primers in the primer pockets. That is hard enough, right? :D

In all fairness, I am beginning to see the chrome/nickel plating starting to wear in a small oval shape at the base pivot of the handle (copper color). I am going to order another Auto Prime set to use as dedicated SP hand primer and use the older one for LP (I shoot more of 9/40 than 45).
 
Can somebody post a picture of the failure? I'm feeling a little machiney this week and a simple project usually fixes it.

Justin
 
Sounds like you have girly thumbs, my friend
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Nope, nothing "girly" here, my friend.
And no Cro-Magnon tendencies, either.
So therefore, not much incidental breakage going on around here.
Just set the primers 'till they "feel right".
No need to try and make 'em sweat.
 
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