Lever actions, tang sights, etc...

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Dorrin79

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Looks like I'm about to buy a Win'94 in 30-30, with a Lyman tang-mounted peep sight.

What can people tell me about this sighting setup? I've shot ARs with aperture sights before, so I understand the concept. Is shooting a tang-mounted peep more or less the same?

Also, where can I find instructions on takedown/maintenance for the '94?

Thanks,
 
Win'94 in 30-30, with a Lyman tang-mounted peep sight.

I shoot that set-up myself. Mine gives me good accuracy at 50 and 100 yards using any load I've fed it. The Lyman #2 sight I have mounted has a tendancy to flip down during recoil with the full power hunting loads though, which brings me to my next question about:

make sure the upright is in the notch when you shoot.

The notch? I take that to mean there's a "stop notch" or something to keep the upright stabilized. during recoil. I didn't see this mentioned in the instructions or I wouldn't be noticing it flip down every time I shoot. Of course, with CAS cast lead loads, I don't have that problem.

Also, where can I find instructions on takedown/maintenance for the '94?

Maintainance, in my experience with the Win-94 so far, is you clean the bore and grease all the moving parts you can see. You might flush the action out with WD-40 every so often so it don't get gummed up with dirt and powder fouling. Rub the outside metal with grease to keep the blue's lustre. I haven't had a reason to takedown yet.
 
I shoot a Marlin 1894c in 357 and with some heavy 158 gr and my 170 gr reloads it has no problem with the tang sight moving. I have a Marble's tang sight on mine and it has a spot where it fels like it is in a notch when it is in the proper position.



Go here for a manual http://www.winchesterguns.com/manuals/index.htm
and get some good gun cleaning supplies Never use WD-40 to just spray down a gun It is mostly kerosene with some silicon added. It is not a useable product for a gun cleaning kit because it leaves gunk when it dries. Get some GunScrubber for major gunk and RemOil for lube or CLP, and definitly get some Hoppe's #9 for normal bore cleaning.
 
www.leverguns.com has a good bit of information on, well, leverguns.

Exploded View

I'll give you a bit of contrary advice, compared to previous posters.

1. Buy a video or paper manual that is good enough to allow you to field strip or disassemble your firearm a bit to get at the moving parts.

Especially before firing it for the first time, get to know your rifle and make sure all the parts are there! Clean off all the parts (incl bore) with the solvent of your choice, lube with the lube of your choice, then head to the range.

My wife just bought a Rossi 92 in .44mag (yeah, my 5', < 100lb wife owns a .44mag) & it was missing the firing pin collar. I have one on order. Especially WRT used guns, make sure it is safe before firing to the best of your ability.

2. WD40 is not of the Devil.

It is not the best cleaner, lube, protectant, but it'll do unless your weapon is capable of fully automatic fire, where it gives up WRT lube faster than other possible choices.

I baby my arms with products generally superior to WD40, but my dad & grandpa used it exclusively on their arms, none of which was a rusty mess or had a malfunction due to build up of any sort of sticky stuff (and all of which I now posess).

FWIW:
1. Carb cleaner or brake cleaner are cheap gun scrubber replacements at 1/4 the price (keep it off the wood & plastic, though)
2. Synthetic motor oil will lube & protect very well for real cheap...some use it to clean, too
3. Ed's Red is a fine solvent, unless you need to remove jacket material or heavy lead fouling.
4. CLP/Breakfree is a good all-around product.

IMO, stop worrying about the "Ultimate" cleaner, lube or protectant. So very few people live in climates or put their weapon to such heavy use as to NEED the "Ultimate" product...or anything better than a mediocre product used regularly.
 
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