Marlin 336 manufacture question.

[jrdolall]

I found a Marlin 336 at a pawn shop today that has 72 as the first two digits in the serial number and it is my understanding that this is the year of manufacture.

Was that a "good" year for Marlin? Kind of like a fine wine? I know there have ben some changes but I wanted to see what people knew about this era in Marlin's 336. I have a 336 already but it is much older than this one.

 

[Abel]

I like the one from 1955-1983. These 336 year models are drilled for a scope and came without the crossbolt safety mechanism. But, anything pre-2010 is usually considered good.

 

[geo57]

jrdolall, you are right. Yours was made in 1972. From what I read those made from '69 -'72 were designated by having the 1st 2 numbers of the serial # serve as it's year of manufacture. A buddy has a 1975 336. It's serial # starts with " 25 " ( 1st 2 numbers subtracted from 100 ).

I, like many do, prefer the pre cross bolt safety models with the plain, no checkered walnut.

 

[jrdolall]

I bought it today for $229.
Pics to follow.

 

[jrdolall]

Excellent condition for the price. The see-through mounts will be gone tomorrow and a nice 3x9 Leupold will magically appear on top. Hopefully it will shoot well.

 

[heeler]

Well no doubt you got it at a bargain price considering what I have seen older non cross bolt lock 336's going for in the recent past.
I was lucky a few years ago myself and found a really clean one sans rust and scratches for a similiar price.
I put a Burris Timberline 2x7x26 scope on it so it would not have that over scoped look to it.
Great older rifle and happy for you.

 

[Abel]

I have always liked the 3-9x40mm on a 336. Just the ticket for those 200 yard shots.

 

[StrutStopper]

I'm pretty sure I bought my 336 in '79 (when I turned 18) and mine is a CS. I'll have to verify the S/N when I get home to be sure of the year of manufacture but it does have the cross bolt safety .

 

[texas chase]

That's a steal. Nice find

 

[stonecoldy]

You did EXCELLENT. Enjoy and shoot often!

 

[stonecoldy]

A decent 2 x 7 scope of reasonable cost (Redfield) comes to mind. I have one on my .35 Remington, same model, 2009 manufacture and am pleased with it.

 

[RevDerb]

Great price on a great gun, sir! You might enjoy joining us over at http://www.marlinowners.com

 

[jim243]

I bought it today for $229

You stole it for that price, and yes they shoot great. What no see through rings.(LOL).

Have fun with your NEW/used rifle.

Jim

What caliber is it in 30-30or 35 Remington?

This is a 35 Remingtom.

 

[steveo452]

I have one like It made in 1969, I mounted a Vortex Viper 2-7x32 scope on It. Great all around, do It all rifle.

 

[jrdolall]

I prefer a 50mm lens scope because I do a lot of hunting in the evening and the 50mm gathers light so much better. I will probably put a 40mm on this gun because it will more likely be a morning gun for the hardwoods.

 

[jmr40]

Please don't ruin the rifle with a 50mm scope. Yes it lets in more light. It also lets in more light than you can use. The average human eye can only open up to about 5mm. A 1-4X scope with a 20mm objective set at 4X will allow 5mm of light through to your eye, which is all you can use. Anything more is wasted. It is true that the 50mm set at 5X will let in 10mm of light, but the 20mm set at 2X will let in exactly the same amount of light. Either will let in more light than your eye can use and allow you to shoot long after legal shooting time has expired.

A 50mm objective is only an advantage over smaller scopes when set at 10X or greater and when used long after it is legal to shoot. A much smaller, lighter 1-4X or 2-7X with a 20mm-32mm objective will work much better on a compact rifle like this and transmit more light than you can use anyway.

 

[natman]

Please don't ruin the rifle with a 50mm scope. Yes it lets in more light. It also lets in more light than you can use. The average human eye can only open up to about 5mm. A 1-4X scope with a 20mm objective set at 4X will allow 5mm of light through to your eye, which is all you can use. Anything more is wasted. It is true that the 50mm set at 5X will let in 10mm of light, but the 20mm set at 2X will let in exactly the same amount of light. Either will let in more light than your eye can use and allow you to shoot long after legal shooting time has expired.

A 50mm objective is only an advantage over smaller scopes when set at 10X or greater and when used long after it is legal to shoot. A much smaller, lighter 1-4X or 2-7X with a 20mm-32mm objective will work much better on a compact rifle like this and transmit more light than you can use anyway.

+1

If you need a 50 mm lens to give enough exit pupil, then you're either hunting in the dark or using WAY too much magnification for a 30-30. A nice light 1.5-5x or at most a 2-7x is what's called for.

 

[jrdolall]

Our legal hunting hours are defined as "daylight hours" rather than the "30 minutes after sunset" I see in other states so a 50mm scope is a definite asset. Most of our deer bed in pine thickets and come out very close to dark around field edges so anything you can do to extend the "daylight hours" is a big help.

I use a 50mm scope on most guns but do have a couple of 44mm and 40mm scopes as well. My older 30-30 has a 44mm which works great for me. I also prefer a 3x9 or a 4x10 scope for deer and usually keep it set on around 5x in the stand. During morning hunts the objective is really not a big deal but the evenings can be legally extended by 5-10 minutes with the 50mm scope. I always sit on stand until it is too dark to make out leaves on the ground. I also prefer to be in the stand before I can make out leaves in the morning.

 

[natman]

I use a 50mm scope on most guns but do have a couple of 44mm and 40mm scopes as well. My older 30-30 has a 44mm which works great for me. I also prefer a 3x9 or a 4x10 scope for deer and usually keep it set on around 5x in the stand. During morning hunts the objective is really not a big deal but the evenings can be legally extended by 5-10 minutes with the 50mm scope. I always sit on stand until it is too dark to make out leaves on the ground. I also prefer to be in the stand before I can make out leaves in the morning.

I can see how it might seem to work the way you describe, but there's a crucial catch - there's a limit to how much light your eye can let in. Because of this, increasing the exit pupil of the scope to more than 7mm makes no difference. At 5x you get a 7mm exit pupil with a 35 mm objective lens, so a 40mm would be more than adequate. Using a 50 mm lens only adds weight, cost and raises the scope higher, which is already a sore point on Marlins because of their low stocks designed for iron sights.

From: http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/03/optics_opticpupil_061907/#ixzz20oaTffoV

'You can calculate the size of a scope’s exit pupil by dividing the effective objective diameter in millimeters by the magnification. For a 4X 32mm hunting scope, divide the 32mm objective size by 4 and you find that the exit pupil is a generous 8mm in diameter. With a 6.5-20X 50mm target/varmint variable scope, the exit pupil ranges from a large 7.7mm at 6.5X to a smallish 2.5mm at 20X. In a low-light situation, all other factors being equal, a lower magnification setting will provide seemingly brighter viewing than a higher one.

It is tempting to conclude that the largest obtainable exit pupil is the most desirable. But that’s not always the case. The catch is that the pupil of a normal human eye opens to a maximum diameter of 5mm to 7mm, depending on the individual, even in extremely dark surroundings. Exit-pupil diameters that exceed about 7mm deliver more light than your eye can accept."

Personally I find 4x plenty of magnification for deer as far as you have any business shooting at them with a 30-30, so I'd go for a 4x with a 28 or 30mm objective, mounted as low as I could get it.