Mashed my first primer today

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ballman6711

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I decided to get in the loading room this morning and load up some 55gr spbt for the ar-15. Grabbed fifty pieces of brass and got started. This batch of brass was purchased as once fired military brass, prepped and ready to load except for primers.

So being the trusting soul that I am ;), I check every piece of brass like it was a range pickup. The brass is sold as cleaned, de-primed, sized and trimmed, and the military crimp removed. Except the crimp needs "more" removing on most pieces as I discovered when I loaded my first rounds with this brass a few weeks ago.

After removing the already removed crimp and chamfering to clean up any burrs left from trimming, I began to size (being the trusting soul that I am) and prime my fifty cases. Case number 12 sizes fine, but the primer gets stuck and won't seat.:cuss: The case won't come out of the shell holder either. So I "gently" apply more force until it seated enough to come out of the press. Here's the pics.

IMG_4741.JPG IMG_4743.JPG

The right side of the primer has been crushed down a bit, and the primer hasn't been seated fully. I can only assume that the crimp wasn't fully removed (by them or by me) or that there may have been a brass shaving left in the pocket after I re-removed the crimp. My solution was to remove the crimp (again) from the remaining pieces and clean the primer pockets. The rest of this batch primed smoothly, and I decided to leave powder and bullet seating for another day.

chris
 
I've had that happen to me too in the past. Now I use the Hornady pocket reamer and check each primer pocket with a primer hole size gauge. One end should go in and if the other end goes in the primer pocket is too big. After reaming, I put the small end gauge straight into the primer pocket, if it goes in the primer will go right in. If it doesn't quite go in I ream it more till it does. Works every time. I'm loading on a Dillon 550C.
 
That's not bad. You can push that primer out, remove the burr on the edge of the primer pocket, push the primer in the pocket backwards to straighten it out, push it out again, turn it around & push it in right.
I do it all the time, the primer is still good. As long as they are not pushed in sideways they can be repaired.
 
I decided to get in the loading room this morning and load up some 55gr spbt for the ar-15. Grabbed fifty pieces of brass and got started. This batch of brass was purchased as once fired military brass, prepped and ready to load except for primers.

So being the trusting soul that I am ;), I check every piece of brass like it was a range pickup. The brass is sold as cleaned, de-primed, sized and trimmed, and the military crimp removed. Except the crimp needs "more" removing on most pieces as I discovered when I loaded my first rounds with this brass a few weeks ago.

After removing the already removed crimp and chamfering to clean up any burrs left from trimming, I began to size (being the trusting soul that I am) and prime my fifty cases. Case number 12 sizes fine, but the primer gets stuck and won't seat.:cuss: The case won't come out of the shell holder either. So I "gently" apply more force until it seated enough to come out of the press. Here's the pics.

View attachment 1034091 View attachment 1034092

The right side of the primer has been crushed down a bit, and the primer hasn't been seated fully. I can only assume that the crimp wasn't fully removed (by them or by me) or that there may have been a brass shaving left in the pocket after I re-removed the crimp. My solution was to remove the crimp (again) from the remaining pieces and clean the primer pockets. The rest of this batch primed smoothly, and I decided to leave powder and bullet seating for another day.

chris
Ouch! Well, it only cost you (maybe) 10¢ and some time/aggravation. No injuries and nothing damaged. Now my advice is to make it an even quarter and go toss 15¢ in a nearby wishing well and wish for better brass next time. ;) Then fgo buy a primer pocket uniforming tool. I prefer Lyman's but there are lots of good ones to choose from. https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!c=190&l=LY
 
This is one of the reasons I prefer to prep my brass myself rather than rely on someone else doing it. I use the new RCBS primer crimp cutter chucked in a variable speed drill in a padded vice. This makes primer crimp removal really easy & fast, about 2 seconds a case.

I prefer a cutter to a swagger any time. I previously swaged but it is inconsistent with different case manufacturers. I actually found it indents the inside of the primer pocket causing a thinner pocket wall. The reamer is very quick chucked up in a drill. I'll never go back to swagging.
 
I prefer a cutter to a swagger any time. I previously swaged but it is inconsistent with different case manufacturers. I actually found it indents the inside of the primer pocket causing a thinner pocket wall. The reamer is very quick chucked up in a drill. I'll never go back to swagging.
There's some head-stamps of brass most fellers throw away because the primer pockets aren't normal. I use a Lyman primer pocket tool kit to deburr, clean and cut to uniform those pockets. The reamer is nice for swaged primer pockets to smooth the wrinkles out of the pocket walls and put a nice chamfer on the rim. The uniformer cuts the brass to SAAMI spec for diameter and depth. I spend a lot of time with my brass. :)
 
What, Have you never pushed out a live primer?
I think it was the statement that you do it "all the time" If you're having to go through that dance more than once a year then, respectfully, you might want to consider revising your priming routine. Just sayin'
 
To counter the above post #7 I prefer to swage my pockets. I believe that not removing brass from the primer pocket help it last longer. Ultimately you have to choose.
To the OP welcome to the jacked up primer brotherhood! I usually only manage one or so every year thankfully.

I feel removing 0.1 grains of brass to the base of the rim will not affect longevity at all.
 
I can only assume that the crimp wasn't fully removed

Sounds like you found the problem - crimp not fully removed. When removing crimps, I make sure the tool "bottoms out" and makes little swirl marks on the bottom of the primer pocket. It takes a light touch.

I'm using a (Hornady?) trimmer in a drill press. A .221" drill bit in a vice that guides the case. I wear latex gloves to hold the case.

5.56PocketReam.25%.jpg
 
Gets aggravating huh? I expect to have some happen occasionally, I expect crimped primers military rifle calibers and some 45 and 9mm. I find 38 special i forget to look at every case and tie things up for awhile.
 
Level 3: Push one in sideways and set it off in the priming arm.

At the risk of turning this thread into "How many ways can you jack up a primer?"

Level 3.5 - a primed case sneaks into your batch of unprimed cases. When two primers attempt to fit in half the space, loud noise and hilarity ensues... :rofl:

For the uninitiated, it's as loud as a firecracker but your eyes and ears are fairly close to it. Eye/ear pro is always a good idea.
 
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