Molding bullets for 9mm

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callgood

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Since I have 25# of extra hard 7 1/2 shot and a small furnace left over from making anchors for my duck decoys, I thought I would cast some bullets for 9mm and .38/.357 I was looking at some Lee molds. They say their micro band bullet molds will produce bullets that don't have to be sized. Just apply the alox lube.
If this is so, I could get around 1400 124 grain bullets. The 6 cavity mold and a set of handles cost about as much as 1400 bullets purchesed, and I would then have the equipment. Is the 6 cavity mold @ 34.00 (+ 12.00 for handles) worth the added cost vs a 2 cavity mold @ 18.00. Seems like you could turn out product mucho faster. At about 4 cents each.
Anything else to watch out for?
 
I could finally no longer ignore Lee's 6 cavity moulds after buying Lyman Ideal moulds for many years. I do still prefer the Lyman moulds and they do throw slightly better bullets. But I use the Lee's more because they're easier to setup/maintain and the moulds come up to temp more quickly. The main downside is they heat up more quickly. I find I have to rotate 2 sets if I don't want frosty bullets (bottom pour pot). I like Lee's spru cutter design better, too.

As to the mould handles I'm starting to use the Lee handles on my Lyman 4 cav moulds (requires some mods to fit) as the X hinged handles are easier for me to manuver than the Lyman V style.
 
Thanks, pointman. Sounds like a pair of doubles would be better than one 6 cavity mold. Since this may be a little more involved than casting mushroom anchors for decoys, I'm planning on reading up a bit and easing into it.
 
Another thing that crossed my mind is that you're probably going to be pouring these with a ladle rather than a bottom pour pot. That may make it tough to keep a 6 cavities temp consistent across the length of the mould.

With the bottom pour pot I can fill all 6 255gr cavities in 15-20 seconds but it takes me longer than that to fill 2 190gr cavities with a ladle. Also using a ladle you'll likely have little problem maintaining temp with a 2 cav and will probably get along just fine with a single mould block.

If you really get into this you'll find the $40/$60 for a Lee 10#/20# production pot really speeds things up.
 
Be very very careful callgood, you are starting down a slippery slope. You could end up like me with about 20 different molds, 2 lubrisizers and an RCBS 20lb pot and 1000 lbs of lead in your garage!! Oh and I forgot to mention a plumbers pot to render the wheel weights into ingots for the rcbs pot! It's a sickness that can take hold quite quickly. Good Luck Nick
 
fecmech - now I have someone to blame for MY condition!! :neener:

I have at least three new moulds yet to get into action but realized I haven't yet bought the lubrisizer punches and dies.!!

I used BTW, the Lee 26 cav' for my plinking 38 158's - and with the bottom pour - oh my can I churn those suckers out. Love it! I don't either worry with those about using my hardest alloy - if 11:1 lead/tin they are just fine.
 
I just cast and sized sixteen hundred 200 gr .45 ACP bullets in my H&G #67 mold this weekend. Today my hands are sore. (Arthritis is beginning to make itself known.) And my stash of wheel weights is gone. Need 300-500 lbs but have not been able to find them around Houston these days. Everyone is returning the old weights to their vendor as part of a supply contract (or so they say). Anyone know where old wheel weights can be had in the North Houston/Woodlands area?

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
Ditto the Bullet casting malady; I have about 50+ bullet moulds, mostly Lee, because I can try out a mould, and if I don't like it, I've lost nothing. If I do like it, I'll get a 6 cavity one! (That is if they make one for that design). I too have a 100lb stainless melting pot I use over a propane "fish cooker" to melt the weights/scrap and cast into ingots. Also have a Lee 20lb-IV pot, and two 10lb production pots (one has a burned out heating element and I haven't been motivated to send it back to Lee)

Regarding casting for the 9mm;

I've had very poor results from the Tumble Lube bullets in 9mm, 10mm, and so-so with the .45acp. Outstanding results with the .358" for .38spl. however.

For the 9mm, the only mould I can recommend is the 124gr TC with the single lube groove. You can still tumble lube it however.
(The 147gr RN for the .38 Super works well too, but is limited in usefulness in the 9mm But mine are fabulous in .38spl target loads- it casts at 160gr with W-W, and comes from the mould at .359")
The rear driving bands on the 9mm, 10mm/.40, and .45 tumble lube bullets aren't long enough to handle the pressures with any alloy except linotype, which is rare these days, and getting rarer. I was "gifted" recently 150lbs. It's the first I've seen since I was in grade school and toured a Newpaper's printing shop in the '60's.

For bullet alloy in the 9mm (ditto the .40/10mm) I've found wheelweight with about 2-oz of Lead Free solder (95%tin 5% antimony) added produces WONDERFUL bullets. I normally size them to .356" and lube with 50/50 alox (Lee, RCBS, or Javalina work equally well). With a "proprietary" amount of Hodgdon LongShot, I'm getting accuracy that I won't specify as I've been told I'm full of "green garden humus" as the guns won't shoot that well. But, Saturday was a week ago, I shot a registered 1480-88x in a PPC regional match with my "home brew" bullets/ammo. They (bullets/loads) have outshot all of the jacketed "premium" bullets I've tried im my S&W PPC-9 6". I will say that most of my 25yd "bench" groups are running 1-hole.

I've got several sources for wheelweight in the central Georgia area. But, I'M NOT REVEALING MY SOURCES !!!!

I go through about 300-500lbs annually, so, I'm not very forth coming with my stash! You'll have to find your own! Actually, I find that many of the sources I have gladly part with it, as a lot of the recyclers are charging the "sources" to take it off their hands. I suspect that some of the tire weight producers are starting to have a harder time getting the raw materials and are finding it preferable to "recycle" their products, hence the issue in the Houston,TX area.

We can probably eventually expect the supply of cheap lead to play out. Then we'll be in a "tight" and forced to accept EXPENSIVE ammo.

FWIW, I've found range scrap alloyed as mentioned above to work equally well to wheelweights. You might try that. The birdshot mentioned will be too soft for best bullets in the 9mm. However, with some of the LeadFree Solder added it should do ok. I get it at Lowe's and HomeDepot in the plumbing supply section. The Silver-bearing solder works OK, but you'll have to flux well and skim off the "bluish tinted" silver that work its way out of the melt. (This might be helpful if you have an "outbreak" of vampires or werewolfs, though!)

You probably won't have to size the Lee bullets, but do use the tumble lube straight as it comes. I find this best for the 9mm. For .38spl, I cut it with about 1:4 mineral spirits to lube. I just fill a new bottle to the bottom of the neck of the bottle and shake well. 4oz bottle will lube about 25,000 .38 slugs.

Good luck with your attempts at bullet casting.
 
Goose--I'm using the lee 124tc with Blue Dot in a Hi-power with an Olympic Arms barrel and getting decent decent accurracy( around 1.75-2"@25 yds). What velocity are you running with the long shot( not so sneaky way to find out how much) if youy don't mind saying? I will give the LS a try at any rate and see if it beats the blue dot out of my BHP. Have you tried water dropping your slugs out of the mould to toughen them up?? I water drop my 9's and then size within an hour or so otherwise they run too hard thru the sizer(star). If you can't size right away put the cast bullets in the freezer until you are ready to size. That will keep the hardening sequence from taking place and will let the bullets go thru the sizer just like you cast them. In a day or so after they warm up they will be at maximum hardness. Nick
 
I believe the arsenic is added to harden the shot when it drops into the water. It is my understanding that is the catalyst for the heat treating of lead/antimony alloys. Nick
 
Watch out you don't do what I did. I started casting and handloading so I could afford to shoot as much as I wanted to, and ended up in business and so busy making bullets for everyone else I don't have time to shoot anymore.

I seem to have defeated my own purpose here.... :(
 
FecMech:

I'm not real sure about the velocity as I'm running it through both a 4"bbl (5906-PC) and a PPC-9 w/ 6"bbl. Velocity from the 6" runs "about" 1,200fps, the 4" about 1,120fps. Not HOT loads, but JUST enough to get reliable cycling with the MASSIVE slide of the PPC-9 6". LongShot is considerably finer grained than BlueDot, about like #231. Sd's are very low. Best thing about LongShot is that the pressure curve rises slower so that the cast bullets don't get slammed so hard starting out. At least that's my THEORY on why the LongShot works so good with the cast bullets in the 9mm. I developed the load from some data I saw in Handloader Magazine, so that will give you a starting point. Actually two different articles; one on the CZ 85, another on a Kimber 1911. Author was using BushWhacker 124-125gr SWC.

RE: Arsenic in Lead Shot.

Arsenic is used to harden the shot........ hence the term "Chilled" shot. Upon dropping from the shot tower, the hardening effect of the arsenic comes from the shot being "quick cooled" or "chilled", which makes the shot much harder and resistent to deformation. Hence, arsenic is also used in Wheelweights, which makes heat treating them to harden also work. I do this to rifle bullets by heating them to approx. 500deg in an aluminum pan in an old toaster oven for about 30min. I then drop them into a 5gal bucket of water with a home made collander in bottom made from 1/8" hardware cloth. After about 30sec, I just pull the "basket" out of the bottom and drain the water off the bullets. This works even better, and especially with gaschecked bullets that have already been sized (but not lubed). Either tumble lubing or conventional lubing can then be performed. A time consuming extra step, but when trying for 2,300-2,500fps with a cast bullet, WELL WORTH THE EXTRA TIME/EFFORT.

Lead and Arsenic are TOXIC metals/elements. Proper precautions should be used to prevent inhalation, or ingesting dust from air,clothing, ect.

p.s. A shooting buddy of mine has a BHP with factory barrel. It shoots about 1.5" at 25yds with my cast bullet and LongShot. About as well as it shoots anything. Even a Glock I tried them through shot well for about 40rds. Needed cleaning to get lead from barrel then though, to restore accuracy......Which ran about 2.75-3.5" at 25yds, or about normal for a Glock.
 
Thanks Goose--Got a Sporting clays buddy who loads Longshot in his 20 and 28 ga. target loads and I was talking to him about the powder. He is going to bring me some to try tomorrow when we shoot. I'll let you know how it works out for me. Nick
 
This casting is like the flu it jsut spreads. I cast my 9MM from a four cavity Saeco mold. 124 gr truncated bullets. I usually cast .45acp bullets from a 4 cavity Lyman mold to keep both molds from getting to hot. I also use 2 cavity molds but I find them to slow using a bottom pour pot.
 
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