Mosin-Nagant user thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
ALL RIGHT...I bought my second mosin the other day...$79 at local Big5 and I couldnt' pass it up.

I need MORE AMMO!!!

Any recommendations on what/where to get them?? AIM suprplus has Czech, Bulgarian, Hungarian, and Russian. I'm assuming they are all corrosive stuff, but one better than the other??
 
Vzenmn, Your rifle should ok i have never seen a Mosin Nagant carbine that wasn't couuterbored.

Mike
 
Hi all mosin comrades!

This could sound stupid but I gotta ask anyways :

Could someone please post pics of that ati bolt handle. I would like to know how it looks on the other side.
The reason I ask is that Ive been wondering if the handle is supposed to rotate around that screw. If not, then why does it have only one screw and what prevents it from rotating? Is the screw just fastened so tight that it keeps firm?
 
Last edited:
Here is a pic of mine. The handle has a recess in it that the nub that is left on the bolt after cutting it. I also used lock-tigh and J-B Weld the handle is solid.


Mike
 

Attachments

  • 9130 Bolt.jpg
    9130 Bolt.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 102
Mike56. This one isn't counter bored. rifling goes up to the end of the muzzle andis sharp. Part of the reason I bought it.
 
Were you able to clean up the crown? I have used a dremel bullet shaped stone by hand to clean up crowns with success. Good luck

Mike
 
I'm gonna shoot it before I mess with it to see if it needs done. And I think if it does I will use the brass slotted screw and rubbing compound in a drill method.
 
I have 2 questions for a mosin

1. How did you clean the cosmoline initially?

2. Did you headspace?? Or in rimmed cartridge is it not that important.
 
I'll be honest, I never did, but there's a great art on surplusrifle.com that tells you the best ways to get that nasty grease off the weapon. I also never headspaced. Don't have the tool to check any headspace or firing pin protrusion. My 65 year old rifle fires just fine.
 
I am now the proud father of *sniff* a like new 91/30. No recrowning, pristine barrel, no rust, and best yet a new 300r tin of 1946 bulgarian light ball for $107. Now the broke college boy can go play with the 44 and 91/30 at the range and look like he knows what he is doing.
 
Nicked crown or no it still shot great. Bulgarian and Albanian light ball shot point or aim with bayo extended and grouped 5 rounds at 4 MOA at 100 yards. And Hungarian heavy ball group 4 inches low but placed 5 shots in a nice consistant 2 1/2 inch group every time.:what: Of course when I folded the bayo down The groups shifted low and to the left and opened up a bit.
So I guess if I did any thing I made more accurate.;)

I think I have a keeper.
 
best yet a new 300r tin of 1946 bulgarian light ball for $107. Now the broke college boy can go play with the 44 and 91/30 at the range and look like he knows what he is doing.

I bought a 300r tin of Bulgarian heavy ball for $57 after all was said and done. Is light ball more expensive or something?
 
I bought a 300r tin of Bulgarian heavy ball for $57 after all was said and done. Is light ball more expensive or something?

Where?? Is that in including shipping?? because that's 19 cents/round and I'd agree it's pretty cheap.

I just ordered 880 rounds of Hungarian 182gr FMJBT for $199 shipped and that's 22.6 cents/round and that was the best deal I could find.

300 rounds for $107 is 35.6 cents, not cheap. I hope at least that included shipping.
 
Cosmoline cutter

You will need to do this outside, but the real trick to getting all cosmoline out of a Mosin is gasoline. I used patches down the bore, an oversized patch in the breech and chamber, and then wiped down the stock with a rag that I kept dousing with some gas. Even then looking in the breech there was still remnants of cosmoline in the chamber than I had to dig out with a Q-tip. Gasoline does dissolve it and make it easier to remove and so long as you are careful it poses no harm. Just be sure and do a final clean using something like Hoppes #9 and then be sure to properly oil everything.

KKKKFL
 
Electrolyc cleaning

Rainy weekend so I put together my electric cleaning system as described earlier in this thread. I'll post some pictures once I work out all the minor bugs that remain. I am using a small blue plastic funnel, a piece of clear plastic tubing 2 plumbing beveled washers (one seals the breech end, the one at the top has been sliced into a cross form so it keeps the rod off the walls but allows juice to bubble and flow), a 48" brass rod down the center of a 48" brass tube, an old electric HO train transformer for DC.

The results have been nothing short of phenomenal, just add water, vinegar, and ammonia along with a little current. Pictures coming soon.

KKKKFL
 
Bolt bend

Hi everyone just got my C&R and so far purchased 2 MN rifles a M-44 and a 91/30. I have a of question Franco2shoot how did you do the bolt bend and scope mount?
 
Easy Gunk Removal

Ok, here's the shots. Promise not to puke.
First, here's the parts you will need.
attachment.php


I use the bungee cord to keep the wood dowel and breech washer slammed into the top of the chamber. There is a metal tab the I initially thought was going to be enough when rotated like the bolt, but that leaked, hence the bungee cord. The dowel is drilled just a tick so that the pressure is on the washer and not the brass tube.

Next a close up of the top:
attachment.php


You can see how I cut the washer so that the liquid can pass into the barrel and the gases can escape. I notched the washer a little better in version 1.3 so that it drops into the barrel a little better. It fits snugly into the clear plastic, which allows you to see the reaction bubbles arising.

Next a close up of the breech faucet washer.

attachment.php


Here you can see the glob of solder I put around the base of the rod assembly. I used a brass tube for the outer assembly knowing I would be able to create a good solder joint then inserted a brass rod down the center for stiffness. You can also see that less krud was coming off near the back end versus the brass rod in the middle.

What you are removing looks like this:

attachment.php


Initially, version 1 just used a 12 volt car battery that's been in the garage for a while. I doubt it's up to snuff. My final version will rely on a HO gauge train transformer.

I only ran the setup for 15 or 20 minutes pausing to wipe foam away and refill with the water, vinegar, ammonia mixture (2part water, 1part ammonia, 1 part vinegar).

Then took the cleaning kit out and the wipes were coming out brown for a good while. Started with a brush, just to shake loose remaining grime, then your usual cleaning process.

What more can I say? If you are into old battle rifles, this setup would seem to be a must.


KKKKFL
 

Attachments

  • Brass.jpg
    Brass.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 11
  • Breech.jpg
    Breech.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 432
  • Parts.jpg
    Parts.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 435
  • Topwash.jpg
    Topwash.jpg
    24.5 KB · Views: 434
  • Slime.jpg
    Slime.jpg
    25.8 KB · Views: 430
I'm doing some work on a 1935 M/N 91/30 right now.

Other than the pathetic ATI synthetic stock, it's coming along nicely.

Upgrades include:

-Huber concepts trigger
-Rock Solid Scope Mount(The only way to reliably mount a scope on a MN!)
-Pillar bedded and free-floated barrel(in ATI stock)
-Rock Solid Bent Bolt Body
-Harris Bipod
-Burris 3-9x scope.

And camo'd.
 
Franco, this is my rifle in the pic:

CIMG2278.gif

As you can see... 2 of the dot-marks (1 on the sight block half, 1 on the post half) are in-line. the other 2, are not.

I'm just really confused if the Russians set that to be a quick-adjustment for use without the bayonet (if they ever trained the men to take the darned things off).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top