Hello, I bought a repro sniper from SOG. This thing shoots 1.25 MOA with Ruskie ball. Am I happy, Yes. Problem is the dang scope is about 1/4 inch toward the left side of the rifle. This will cause serious problems at further ranges. Anyone have a solution to this problem before I start cutting steel on this thing? I figure I can cut steel from the top of the mount and sort of cant it over as much as I need. I want the scope over the bore. Anyone deal with this? Thanks.
Mosin Repro Sniper......problem.
- Thread starter IROCZ
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Rail Driver
Member
It's a Mosin Nagant that shoots 1.25MOA... why not try shooting it at longer ranges with it as is? I'm not 100% but don't they have rifles that are designed to have offset sights/scopes? Is the mount you're using made for the Mosin or is it an aftermarket scope mount you added on yourself? If a gunsmith of any decent caliber mounted it, then it's probably on there the way it's supposed to be.
Drako
Member
they were actually design that way and will stay accurate. the trick is to get the max distance zeroed then learn where the shorter distances lie its not that bad just time consuming
Jeff82
Member
...and to clear the bolt handle. How do you think they put scopes on M1 Garands?
Thanks for the replies. The rifle was built by Ruskies in the Ukraine. It is a vintage rifle with a recently made scope. The only reason I noticed it was I ordered three. One for me two for friend an father in law. Mine is the only one that is mounted like a 30-30 Winchester, or a Garand. The other two are correct with the scope over the boreline. Mine is not. It will cause windage differences at longer ranges. Thanks.
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SmokeySam81
Member
if you are shooting a parallel line it won't be an issue even at long range. what you must do is sight in with the POA 1/4" off center in the same direction as the scope is off center. the best way would be to boresight it, the farther the better, but of course it is harder to do. it will only prove to be a problem if you try to make your point of aim and point of impact the exact same, in which case you will only have them match at the exact distance that you sighted in at. I would leave the scope the way it is, unless you are a lefty like me.
FYI the offset boresighting is common practice in the military for IR lasers which don't mount on the centerline, and I have used them successfully at long range with NVG's. 1/4 inch is already way smaller than your grouping, and if you do it right it will not multiply itself.
FYI the offset boresighting is common practice in the military for IR lasers which don't mount on the centerline, and I have used them successfully at long range with NVG's. 1/4 inch is already way smaller than your grouping, and if you do it right it will not multiply itself.
MadDog1969
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Adjusting MN91/30 Scope Mount
Hello,
The MN91/30 scope mounting system has a socket in the front of the base mount. Adjustments left or right are done on the back side of the mount where the large tighten knob is. If the front of the scope points to the shooter's left, you have to add shims between the base mount on the rifle and the scope mount.
If the scope points to the shooter's right, you have to file a little at a time from the scope mount where it contacts the base mount.
There are two very small set screws at the rear of the scope base to adjust the horizontal (up and down) of the scope.
Easiest thing to do is to check the mounting instructions of one the vendor's who sell the reproduction scope mounts.
You want to get the scope centered as much as you can using these adjustments before you use the scope knobs.
Hope this helps.
MadDog1969
Hello,
The MN91/30 scope mounting system has a socket in the front of the base mount. Adjustments left or right are done on the back side of the mount where the large tighten knob is. If the front of the scope points to the shooter's left, you have to add shims between the base mount on the rifle and the scope mount.
If the scope points to the shooter's right, you have to file a little at a time from the scope mount where it contacts the base mount.
There are two very small set screws at the rear of the scope base to adjust the horizontal (up and down) of the scope.
Easiest thing to do is to check the mounting instructions of one the vendor's who sell the reproduction scope mounts.
You want to get the scope centered as much as you can using these adjustments before you use the scope knobs.
Hope this helps.
MadDog1969
Rail Driver
Member
quote=MadDog1969]There are two very small set screws at the rear of the scope base to adjust the horizontal (up and down) of the scope.[/quote]
Just a small quibble... The set screws you refer to adjust the elevation (up and down) which is vertical orientation. Modifying the scope base and shimming as you described adjusts the windage (left to right) which is horizontal orientation.
In any case, the scope will still be left of center-bore. It will still be just as accurate as a rifle with a centered scope in properly trained hands.
Just a small quibble... The set screws you refer to adjust the elevation (up and down) which is vertical orientation. Modifying the scope base and shimming as you described adjusts the windage (left to right) which is horizontal orientation.
In any case, the scope will still be left of center-bore. It will still be just as accurate as a rifle with a centered scope in properly trained hands.
MadDog1969
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Thanks Rail Driver,
I did not explain myself well; I was thinking of the axis of the scope base. Elevation and windage adjustments are much better terminology. Long day.
The Viet Cong and North Vietnamese were quite proficient with these "old" WWII rifles.
MadDog1969
I did not explain myself well; I was thinking of the axis of the scope base. Elevation and windage adjustments are much better terminology. Long day.
The Viet Cong and North Vietnamese were quite proficient with these "old" WWII rifles.
MadDog1969
Well I lapped the base in a little, I was worried about taking too much off. It's closer to bore centerline but not perfect. Darn thing puts S&B Sp's into dang near a one hole group. I will leave it for now and save it for a winter day when I'm up for a tedious project. Does anyone have any experience with the trigger on these things? Thanks.
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