My soon to be new yugo 24/47 mauser

Status
Not open for further replies.

Funderb

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
2,104
Location
Jacksonville, Bold new city of the south.
After fiddling with the sights on the mauser, it is precise, very much so, but I am tired of compensating for 300 yd sights at a 100 yd range.
I bought more than a year ago for $130,
I decided, to hell with iron sights, I already have
a mosin 91/30 for that.

So I am going full out, bent bolt conversion, drill and tap the receiver,
maybe a new stock. And I am using my machining skills to drill and tap it myself. Some people may call me stupid, but there really isn't anything I cannot do that a gunsmith can. I will definitely put up some pics when I am done.

The question for you guys (and gals) is:
Any suggestions on an affordable scope?
specifically what power?
I like the ncstars, despite what people say, the optics are near crystal, and I use a 3-9x at night for my .22 and I have no problem seeing what's out there.
But what power should I put on top of this mauser?
 
Better get your asbestos union suit buttoned up quick!

Discontinued Leupold VXII 3-9X40s are a good price now if you can find one.

rr2241tx
 
You do know about spot annealing the receiver rings before trying to drill and tap a Mauser, right?

Might save you some cutting tools and breakage.

Perhaps some one else here can explain it better but basically one builds little clay dams on the reciever rings that allow you to drop a drop of molten lead on the area to be softend just large enought for your drilling and tapping and letting the lead an steel cool to room temperature on its own. SUpposedly does away with the surface hardness only in those small spots. You do not want to anneal too large an area either.

Don't try to do it based on my discription but ask around or do a seach.

Lots of thing folks "used to do" are now recognized as wrong, so get more data before attempting such.

-Bob Hollingsworth
 
On a few old Mausers with the 300 meter v notch sights I took and cut a brass shell case so I could flatten it out, cut a piece of that brass and formed it to fit over the front sight. Like a tent. Epoxied it on to the original front sight. Added enought height to the front sight so it could be sighted on at 100 yards.
 
You do know about spot annealing the receiver rings before trying to drill and tap a Mauser, right?

Might save you some cutting tools and breakage.

Perhaps some one else here can explain it better but basically one builds little clay dams on the reciever rings that allow you to drop a drop of molten lead on the area to be softend just large enought for your drilling and tapping and letting the lead an steel cool to room temperature on its own. SUpposedly does away with the surface hardness only in those small spots. You do not want to anneal too large an area either.

Don't try to do it based on my discription but ask around or do a seach.

actually, that description was spot on!

I used a carbide end mill to spotface the hard shell, and then drilled and tapped, but your method would have worked just fine.
 
Thanks a bunch guys,
I was looking at the method where you use calipers
to line the mounts up perfectly, then mark out the area.
Epoxy the mounts to the rifle after you clean it with acetone,
then use a mar to ding in the steel so the bit won't walk,
and just drill/tap with cutting oil straight through the holes in the mount.
oh yeah and have one bit for each hole. no sense in using a dull one 3 extra times.
That spot annealing sounds very helpful, so I'll give it a shot!

Thanks for the scope selections, unfortunately I think any leupold is way out of my willing amount to spend. I was thinking one of those Ncstar mark 3 or fours or whatever, or maybe a simmons. 100-120 range is more like the poor college student.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top