Natchez Order

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nyctpt

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Just ordered the following from Natchez. Expect a whole bunch of question in the coming weeks lol.

[2] | [MTLT150M30] | [IMPROVED UNIV LOADING TRAY RED] | [ 5.99]
[3] | [HO22271] | [V-MAX .22 CAL 55GR FB] | [15.74]
[1] | [60N] | [NATCHEZ CATALOG] | [ 0.00]
[1] | [RC09094] | [RC POWDER TRICKLER] | [13.32]
[1] | [LEE90030] | [BREECH LOCK CHALLENGER KIT] | [99.99]
[4] | [JCSR50] | [50 RD HNG TOP AMMO CASE 223/.17] | [ 1.99]
[1] | [PC050080] | [DIGITAL CALIPER] | [19.99]
[1] | [LEE90114] | [LEE GAGE/HOLDER .223 REM.] | [ 3.49]
[1] | [RB07500] | [IMPERIAL SIZEING DIE WAX CAN 1OZ] | [ 5.49]
[1] | [LEE90604] | [LEE DLX RIFLE 3 DIE SET 223] | [27.49]

I tried to do my research and I hope I didn't leave anything out. I'm going to be camping upstate for a few days so I probably will only be able to check this thread once a day or so. With any luck the order will be waiting when I get home. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice!

Thanks!

Ryan
 
Isn't it great to finally get started! What I don't see on your list, but hope you already have are loading manuals to get you started with your recipes. These, plus powder and primers will get you on your way.
 
I have the ABC's and am going to get started with recipes from the mfr or the load data that Lee sends with their dies. Definitely on the lookout for manuals soon though, and yes it does feel good!

Ryan
 
You ordered the case gage/holder, but you will need:

- Cutter with ball handle that screws at the end of the gage to cut the case neck to length.
- Either the Zip trim or the lock stud that is used with the drill to rotate the case.
- Chamfer tool to clean up inside/outside of the case neck after trimming to length to eliminate the sharp edge (makes seating the bullet and chambering finished round easier). I also use the chamfer tool to remove the primer pocket crimp on military cases.
- Primer pocket cleaner.

p-208.jpg

ziptrim.jpg

CaseConditioning(1).jpg
 
You'll also need a tumbler to clean/polish the case and I highly recommend the Berry's 400 tumbler that is also sold by Cabela's (green), Graf & Sons (purple), Sinclair (red) depending on the color you prefer. I use fine walnut media with NuFinish car polish to clean/lightly polish the case and corn cob media with NuFinish to highly polish the case.

400-tumbler_md.jpg
 
nyctpt said:
I have the ABC's and am going to get started with recipes from the mfr or the load data that Lee sends with their dies. Definitely on the lookout for manuals soon though, and yes it does feel good!

Ryan
Click to expand...
If you would like to find a summary of all the published information from essentially all sources, the One Book/One Caliber series may suite your needs, it does mine. While it may not have 100% of the absolutely most current published information, I use it regularly in addition to my Lyman 49th and Lee 2nd Ed manuals. THe Lee info with the dies is, well, not very good or useful.
 
nyctpt said:
I have the ABC's and am going to get started with recipes from the mfr or the load data that Lee sends with their dies. Definitely on the lookout for manuals soon though, and yes it does feel good!

Ryan
Click to expand...
You need more than the ABC's
You need another manual or two. If you are using the Lee equipment, the Lee Manual is helpful and the least expensive. I recommend Lyman, and Lyman cast if using lead bullets, Speer is also good.
 
+1 on the One Book/One Caliber series

I have one for each caliber I reload, except 7.62x25 Tokarev (they don't publish a book for that caliber)
 
That's funny. I put the information about the Zip Trim and other needed parts in his Other Thread. I wonder why the OP didn't purchase it or another trimming tool?

It looks like you have most of what you need. Enjoy the vacation and reloading when you get home!
 
Got back into town yesterday and had the box waiting at the door! I was without cell service most of the time away so it was a shock when I had enough to update my email and track the UPS number. I placed the order Sunday morning and it was at my door Wednesday morning, +1 for Natchez.

The only thing I see so far that I am missing is an extra breech lock bushing, I took the extras off my list because I found a few references to two being included with the kit. Only one was included. No big deal though I'll order a few extras and will probably pick up a reloading manual at the same time. Part of my reluctance to buy a manual is that I am only going to be reloading .223 for the foreseeable future and I don't want to buy information I don't need. The way I work I'll end up buying a .308 so I can try out some of the loads in my new book lol.

To answer the questions on trimming: The Lee kit I purchased came with the lock stud, shell holder, and cutter. I purchased the case length gauge which is installed into the cutter. The lock stud is chucked in a drill, the shell holder is tightened onto the case and the cutter is held in my hand. The ball cutter might be more comfortable but I don't see it as a big deal at this point. The kit included a chamfer tool. A quick squeeze with some steel wool and things are nice and shiny. When I take the case out of the holder I give it a twist with the steel wool around the case head to get the parts that are covered while it's in the drill. The included primer pocket cleaner worked well. I did this with three cases last night, with pretty good results. I know most of you know how that process works but putting it down on paper (so to speak) helps me to understand the process.

I have a few questions about case length tolerance, mixed brass, and adjusting the neck sizing die, should I ask them in this thread or start another? Not sure of the etiquette there....

Thanks again for all the help and advice, you guys are an awesome resource.

Ryan
 
Regarding your latest questions:

My own preference is to separate brass according to headstamp at least. Serious bench shooters further segregate those headstamps into various weight distributions, but that is more trouble than I am willing to go to. But it's important to separate as to the manufacturer when it comes to rifles.

As to trim length tolerances, once again the serious bench shooters try to get everything down to 0.001" of the same length, but that is more fuss than I'm willing to go to. I just make sure they are all less than the max length and let it go at that. I used to trim everything down to 0.010" less than max, the way you're supposed to but lately I trim down to 0.015", figuring I'll get an extra firing or two that way before I have to trim again. Now that I'm neck sizing a lot of my cartridges, I probably won't need to trim until it's time to FL size again.

There is n ot much to adjusting the neck sizing dies. Lee advises you to turn them down until they make contact with the shell holder and then go another half turn. I found out that I needed to trun them down one full turn past the point of contact. Lee also advises to apply approximately 25 lbs of pressure to the ram lever, whatever that is. When I was trying to neck size with my Challenger press I found I had to push a lot harder than that. But for some reason with the same exact die when I put it in my Big Boss II press, it doesn't take much pressure. When you first neck size, be sure to use your calipers to verify they are indeed being sized correctly. They should be about 0.001" less than the intended bullet diameter. Verify by trying to place a bullet into the case with just your fingers. You shouldn't be able to do so. For some reason, when I do neck sizing, the first one or two cases often don't get sized down correctly, but then magically they start getting sized properly. Just be sure to verify that before you have powder in the cases.
 
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