I just started back reloading after taking 20 years off to raise kids and a couple business`s, I have a couple older manuals but would like to know what is the most current or the best bang for my buck? Wouldnt hurt to have one that covered all the basics again too. Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is my first post here....
Need help on what is the most current reloading manual, or the best ?
- Thread starter Gixxer1k
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LiveLife
Member
Welcome to THR!
My vote is for Lyman #49, especially if you shoot lead pistol reloads.
My vote is for Lyman #49, especially if you shoot lead pistol reloads.
USSR
Member
+1.
Don
MtnCreek
Member
You could get updated data from the powder manufacturers’ websites and use the older manuals for procedure references.
James2
Member
My vote also goes for Lyman #49.
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
jcwit
member
I don't believe there is a "best".
But I sure would place the Lyman #49 very high on the list of best ones.
But I sure would place the Lyman #49 very high on the list of best ones.
moxie
Member
I also like the Lyman, but would also add the Speer.
J_McLeod
Member
One more vote for Lyman #49
lightman
Member
Another vote for Lyman. Lightman
Lost Sheep
Member
One Book, One Caliber
Don't overlook the "One Book, One Caliber" series. It reproduces loading data from many different manuals (as if you took pages from all the popular manuals and reassembled them to group each caliber by itself).
As mentioned before, you can get a lot of information from the various manufacturers' web sites. Best to double check anything you get from the web, though, as typographical errors do occur. They get fixed fast, but it's not like a printed book, which gets vetted thoroughly. Double-checking costs only a minute.
When I first started loading, I got a Lyman manual (I didn't choose it, just got lucky) and really like the writing style. ABC's of reloading is a good reference, too. I still use mine to refresh my memory.
Aside from content, my Lyman's is bound with a spine that lets it lay flat on my loading bench. Very convenient. The "One Book, One Caliber" books have the same feature.
Lost Sheep
Don't overlook the "One Book, One Caliber" series. It reproduces loading data from many different manuals (as if you took pages from all the popular manuals and reassembled them to group each caliber by itself).
As mentioned before, you can get a lot of information from the various manufacturers' web sites. Best to double check anything you get from the web, though, as typographical errors do occur. They get fixed fast, but it's not like a printed book, which gets vetted thoroughly. Double-checking costs only a minute.
When I first started loading, I got a Lyman manual (I didn't choose it, just got lucky) and really like the writing style. ABC's of reloading is a good reference, too. I still use mine to refresh my memory.
Aside from content, my Lyman's is bound with a spine that lets it lay flat on my loading bench. Very convenient. The "One Book, One Caliber" books have the same feature.
Lost Sheep
777TRUTH
Member
The Lyman #49 or Lee 2nd Edition are always good to have around.
Recently I have been getting/verifying my data from the manufacturers website but still have/use my go to manuals.
Recently I have been getting/verifying my data from the manufacturers website but still have/use my go to manuals.
I am going to be reloading for both target (long range) and hunting, most of the hunting I do is of a long range type as well. I will be loading for pistol calibers too. I have dies for my .340 Weatherby Mag, 7mm Rem mag, but will need a new press and just about everything else. I also needs dies for .257 WB mag, 7MM RUM, I have been doing some research on what press, wether to go progressive, turrent or single stage to start. I like the idea of doing all my case prep and priming first and then using something like the LEE loadmaster, I have heard terrible things about the primer feed systems on these presses but have also heard great things about everything else with them. Was thinking that the $$ i would save going this way I could have both a single stage and the progressive set up for the cost of say a Dillion?? Please let me know if that makes sense?
Clark
Member
I have ~ 50 load books and do not use any of them.
I handload 19 Badger,.222, .223, 22-250, 6mmBR, .243, 25acp, 25/35, 250/3000, 257 Robert Ackley Improved, 260Rem, 6.5x55, 270, 7x57mm, 7mm Rem mag, 32acp, 32sw, 32S&WLong, 32-20, 7.62x25mm, 30-30, 303Sav, 300Sav, 7.62x39mm, 308, 7.5Swiss, 30-06, 300WM, 303Brit,7.62x54R, 8x57mm, 338WM, .380, 9x19mm, 9x23mm, 357 Sig, 38 sp, 357 mag, 38sw, 40sw 10mm, 10.4mm, 401 power mag, 44mag, 45acp, 45Colt, .410, 45/70, and 12 ga.
I use Quickload software for a starting point and then determine my max load in strong guns by backing off a safety margin from the threshold of long brass life.
For weak guns, I measure the steel thickness to calculate the gun strength, and use Quickload pressure estimates to find a load that meets my safety margin requirements.
I handload 19 Badger,.222, .223, 22-250, 6mmBR, .243, 25acp, 25/35, 250/3000, 257 Robert Ackley Improved, 260Rem, 6.5x55, 270, 7x57mm, 7mm Rem mag, 32acp, 32sw, 32S&WLong, 32-20, 7.62x25mm, 30-30, 303Sav, 300Sav, 7.62x39mm, 308, 7.5Swiss, 30-06, 300WM, 303Brit,7.62x54R, 8x57mm, 338WM, .380, 9x19mm, 9x23mm, 357 Sig, 38 sp, 357 mag, 38sw, 40sw 10mm, 10.4mm, 401 power mag, 44mag, 45acp, 45Colt, .410, 45/70, and 12 ga.
I use Quickload software for a starting point and then determine my max load in strong guns by backing off a safety margin from the threshold of long brass life.
For weak guns, I measure the steel thickness to calculate the gun strength, and use Quickload pressure estimates to find a load that meets my safety margin requirements.
Thanks Clark, it sounds like you have it pretty well down! What type/brand press/presses do you use or reccomend? I will also be loading for .204,.223,.380,.357 .44rem mag, .45acp .308 9mm 10mm, is this software easy to come by on the net? How do you determine what is a strong gun vs weak? What do you use a base line for a strong gun?
MtnCreek
Member
I strongly recommend loading from a manual for a long while before going off the reservation.
Clark
Member
I have a Dillion 550B and have never used it.
I have an RCBS Rockchucker and hardly ever use it any more.
I do use co-ax presses [I made my own 37) shell holder jaw housing, 1231) "S" lower shellholder jaws, 20) screws, 46) Wear plate, and 13) handle].
I do use an RCBS Partner press.
I do use a Lee reloader press screwed to a board that is clamped to the desk in front of my keyboard when I watch TV on my computer monitor.
I am doing long range rifle hunting and self defense handgun loading.
But someone who is doing bench rest competition and pistol competition might have the opposite choice of presses.
For handgun dies I like Lee dies and handgun factory crimp.
For rifle dies I like:
* Lee collet neck die [I polish the a) collet, b) collar, and c) mandrel/decapping pin]
* Forster sizer die [I have Forster hone the neck to .002" smaller than my loaded necks and I remove the expander ball/decapping stem]
* Forster seater die [ I modify the bullet seating stem J-30]
* The Lee decapping die
I have an RCBS Rockchucker and hardly ever use it any more.
I do use co-ax presses [I made my own 37) shell holder jaw housing, 1231) "S" lower shellholder jaws, 20) screws, 46) Wear plate, and 13) handle].
I do use an RCBS Partner press.
I do use a Lee reloader press screwed to a board that is clamped to the desk in front of my keyboard when I watch TV on my computer monitor.
I am doing long range rifle hunting and self defense handgun loading.
But someone who is doing bench rest competition and pistol competition might have the opposite choice of presses.
For handgun dies I like Lee dies and handgun factory crimp.
For rifle dies I like:
* Lee collet neck die [I polish the a) collet, b) collar, and c) mandrel/decapping pin]
* Forster sizer die [I have Forster hone the neck to .002" smaller than my loaded necks and I remove the expander ball/decapping stem]
* Forster seater die [ I modify the bullet seating stem J-30]
* The Lee decapping die
Attachments
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Powders
Sorry for the many posts and questions but taking a trip to my reloading supply store and wanted to ask what powder/s would work best for the magnum calibers I will be loading for, .340WB mag, .257 WB mag, 7mm RUM, 7mm RM, then also for pistol, 9mm, .357 .44mag .45acp 10mm,
I realize people have preferences and what works for some may not for others, just trying to stock up on some basics. Any tips hints or clues would be great.
Sorry for the many posts and questions but taking a trip to my reloading supply store and wanted to ask what powder/s would work best for the magnum calibers I will be loading for, .340WB mag, .257 WB mag, 7mm RUM, 7mm RM, then also for pistol, 9mm, .357 .44mag .45acp 10mm,
I realize people have preferences and what works for some may not for others, just trying to stock up on some basics. Any tips hints or clues would be great.
Lyman 49. My vote as well
As for powders, That's more depending on you.
For full house loads of .357 mag, You might wanna try H-110 or W296 but to what I understand, There the same powders if I am not mistaken.
Or you can try 2400 for it. I have it and has worked well.
For .45 ACP, Unique or Bullseye.
For 9mm, I have tried a few and still looking....
As for powders, That's more depending on you.
For full house loads of .357 mag, You might wanna try H-110 or W296 but to what I understand, There the same powders if I am not mistaken.
Or you can try 2400 for it. I have it and has worked well.
For .45 ACP, Unique or Bullseye.
For 9mm, I have tried a few and still looking....
MtnCreek
Member
Me Too!!!
As far as the rifles, I only load one that you mention, so can't help there.
Pistols:
9mm
Target/Plink HP38
Full Power HS6
.357
Full Power H110 (lots of folks like 2400, I've not tried it)
.44mag (see above)
.45acp
Plink HP38
Full Power (Silhouette)
10mm
?????
If you bought some HP38 and some HS6, you could get started on all the pistol loads (assuming HS6 works for 10mm). You could add other powders later after you had a better feel for what you are looking for.
TooManyToys
Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 193
Lyman #49!
The Lee reloading book is also good as it has additional info not found in other books.
Plus of course all the bullet & powder mfg's.
As for press choices, the Lee Classic Turret press is a very popular choice with many members here, it's also one of the best bangs for the buck at well under $100 if you shop around. (this is the one with the CAST IRON base)
Powder choices are oh so many, .....but you can't go wrong with always having some Unique on hand.
It has stood the test of time as being probably the most versital & accurate "all around" handgun powder.
The Lee reloading book is also good as it has additional info not found in other books.
Plus of course all the bullet & powder mfg's.
As for press choices, the Lee Classic Turret press is a very popular choice with many members here, it's also one of the best bangs for the buck at well under $100 if you shop around. (this is the one with the CAST IRON base)
Powder choices are oh so many, .....but you can't go wrong with always having some Unique on hand.
It has stood the test of time as being probably the most versital & accurate "all around" handgun powder.
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Glixxer1k
Lyman #49 has good "how to" information as well as good data information. But you will want several manuals.
All of the hard cover books from the bullet manufacturers have good "how to" information and information related to their products. If you are planning on using bullets from the major manufacturers, I would add their manual to your library.
Lyman #49 has good "how to" information as well as good data information. But you will want several manuals.
All of the hard cover books from the bullet manufacturers have good "how to" information and information related to their products. If you are planning on using bullets from the major manufacturers, I would add their manual to your library.
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