Need some advice: reload management

[Jcinnb]

Thanks to all the advice you guys have given, I feel I am off to a grat start.

I have five powders and five bullets and notice this weekend that all five of my little green boxes are about full. I put all kinds of combos In them. Currently I put a piece of paper in the top of the box, listing from hing to clasp wha load normally in units of five or tends where.

Usually when I get to range the paper blows down range. Immediately.

Needless to say, this system sucks,

What do you guys do to keep lots of five or ten reloads straight?

Thanks,

 

[trauma]

I use a zip lock baggie then I mark it with a sharpie. 10 rounds per bag with all the information on each bag. Having 10 rounds per bag I can test loads for 2 guns.
Be safe and have fun.

 

[B.W.]

I use masking tape in the same manner you used the paper under the lid. Write the load info with a fine point sharpe. Stays put and comes off easy.

 

[tly999]

I use these templates, printed on an Avery label.

http://ultimatereloader.com/2010/08/12/print-your-own-ammo-box-labels-pdfs-included/

The label goes on the inside of the lid of the Plastic MTM boxes I use.

 

[cfullgraf]

I go round and round between some kind of sticky label and plain paper, usually card stock. If it is windy, I usually snare the paper label before it gets away.

Usually, it is some kind of sticky label, tape or post-it note, stock to the inside of the top of the plastic box.

If wind is a constant issue where you shoot, I would use tape or something.

Snack size zip lock bags are a good idea until they are empty. Just make sure you have some kind of weight to put them under or put them back in your range bag when empty.

 

[beatledog7]

On the adhesive label (I use MTM) of any box containing mixed loads, I use colored sharpies to code the various loads and mark the case heads in the same colors.

The label has a red dot next to "45-gr" and the rounds with 45 grains have red case heads. There's a blue dot next to "45.5-gr" and the rounds with 45.5 grains have blue case heads. And so on.

The colors easily stay on long enough to store and shoot the rounds but are removed in the tumbler.

 

[TexasShooter59]

Mostly, I use an MTM plastic box with a printed piece of paper inside the lid. Sometimes, I write on an index card and stick it and the rounds in a sandwich or snack size Ziploc bag. Like cfullgraf said, keep it weighted down!

 

[kerreckt]

Zip lock when .223 reloads When it's .243 .308 or 30.06 I write it on the case with a fine permanent sharpie. Bigger cases give me enough room to get the info written.

 

[frankenstein406]

30 cal can full of zip locs with info written on paper inside them.

 

[jr_roosa]

OK, get a sharpie and the wide masking tape roll...maybe 3 inches...the one that is as wide as duct tape.

Each load gets a number...JR1, JR2, JR3, and maybe a sub letter for workups...JR3a, JR3b, etc.

I run them across the box in rows and mark the bottoms of the shells (in case I dump the box...ask my how I learned that). First load in the box gets no mark, the next gets a line, the next gets two lines, the next gets a cross, then next gets a double line with a single cross line, the last gets double crossed lines. It's rare that I would have more than 5 loads in a single box. Usually I have 4 or 5 sets of 5 to 10 shots per box, depending on what I'm trying to do.

I write the load data on the tape on the top of the box. I also leave some space so I can write the chrony data next to the load data, so my labels end up like this at the end of the loading session:

JR4 .30-06 SMK175 WLRP Win4xBrass IMR4895
# Wt Mark avg. velocity +/- SD group size
A 44gr O
B 45gr I
C 46gr II
D 47gr +

Then I fill in the data at the range.

Everything goes into a spreadsheet for longterm data, but I also keep track of other things like atmospheric conditions when chrony'd and zeroed, shoulder setback, seating depth, range, and any special comments.

-J.

 

[gahunter12]

I number all my cases on the primer with a sharpie for pistol rounds, then place them in numerical order in my ammo boxes. I call my load book with me with my load data listed, and which number each load is. For my .223 I just load my mags with 10-20 rounds of each test load, and use glass tape around the bottom of the mags describing that load. Example: LC Brass, 55gr FMJ/BT, 24gr of powder xyz, Primer xyz, OAL: 2.225" +/-.002.

I store my bulk loads in ziplock reusable plastic containers for pistol ammo, and striper clips for .223 in a ammo can.

 

[Rule3]

For test loads I use zip lock bags. For my regular loads I use the plastic boxes but label everything with BLUE painter tape (same on the bags)

Caliber, bullet weight type. Powder type and weight, primer and oal. Lee disc number.

The blue tape is great as it will not dry out and stick to the box. If I have notes about the load, i write on the tape and peel it off and keep it in a notebook. Gives me easy access to previous loads and how much powder. If I chrono them I write that on there also.

 

[627PCFan]

I use a label maker and stick the long label across the case heads when they are loaded in my MTM boxes. Then at the range they all put out of the row, attached just like a Tuff Strip for a revolver, even rifle rounds.

 

[Huskerguy]

I do it a couple of ways. If I am working up loads I usually work up 10 of each. I take an index card and cut it in half the short way and write on it from hinge side at the top to the clasp side what the loads are. I use 2" clear tape to tape this to the inside top of the Berry's box. I sometimes write on the case itself - for instance if the loads are 4.0, 4.2 and 4.4 I might write . 2 and .4 with a sharpy knowing I also have a paper copy on the lid. This way if something happens to get moved or spilled I don't have to worry about what was what. Works for me.

 

[oneounceload]

A standard 3x5 index card will have a curve to it when placed in the lid adding tension so it should stay in place

 

[witchhunter]

I load 9 of each load and will only have 27 in an MTM box, That is 3 groups of 3 shots for each load with space in between. I mark them with an Avery label under the lid, also a colored sharpie on the primer, and next to the load data. eg, green on the left at 27.0 red in middle at 27.8 black on right at 28.2. I print my targets with 3 dots per page, load data written on page before I shoot them so when I get home I have the target with all 3 groups fired at what load on each page. I also try to keep a tablet on hand to keep notes.

 

[Nevmavrick]

My load log is a loose leaf-binder, and I use a separator between calibers(or guns when there is more than one in the same caliber)
Each page is given a number, ie, 1, 1A, 1B, etc. A different bullet(weight) would be a new series of page, ie in .308 150gr would be 1, 1A , the 165gr would be 2, 2A, etc.
I use two lines on my page for each load, ie the first line would be #1 and have the bullet(make and design, RN or spritzer, etc) case(make) primer, powder(# and amount) and seating depth.
Example-an actual line from my .257 Roberts
1-3 75HoHP (Hornady hollow-point) W 200(CCI) 43.0-I(MR) 4895 2.50(The ogive-length of the loaded round
the second line would be the results- 9/25/11 [email protected]" V3335(87)
I shoot(usually) through my chronograph to form a group.
As I load for the test, I write "1-3" on the side of the case with a sharpie. The ink comes off when I tumble the brass.
Just another way.
Have fun,
Gene

 

[callenlee]

I've used zip lock bags and old factory ammo boxes. For easier differentiation when I put different loadings into an ammo box I've loaded different numbers (5 of one test load, 6 of another, etc).

 

[Walkalong]

Post it notes and ammo boxes. Mark the primers if the rounds look identical, or use separate ammo boxes. Even then it is a good idea to mark the primers.

 

[bgw45]

post it notes with the info on the sticky side stuck inside my clear plastic cases so I can read em without opening.

or

I make notes in my phone

 

[rg1]

I use the MTM and similar type boxes to store my test loads for a trip to the range. I use different color magic markers for each load and add a piece of paper with all the load data and the color of the load. I use the magic marker to color the case heads avoiding the primer but it won't hurt the primer. Easy to see, you won't get them mixed up, and if you have any left over you'll know what the load is. You can also use the magic marker or Sharpie to write on the side of the brass case or add circles around the case. Better to mark the cases or you'll get things mixed up. The magic marker or Sharpie color will remain on the case after firing and you can closely inspect the cases and fired primers after you get home. That's one of the main reasons to mark your cases with colors. The color will come off easily with alcohol or I use a rag with some of my case lube which has alcohol in it to remove the colors.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Paper clips, heavy ones. If there is more wind, binder clips, as they are heavier still. If still more wind, magnetic clips (like for attaching notes to your refrigerator). If that isn't enough, thumbtack or staple the papers to your shooting bench.

Or adhesive tape/labels.

Or paperweights (clear glass ones, perhaps). Bullets often work ok.

A few flat-bottomed glass bowls would contain the cartridges and allow you to read the paper through the bowl?

Lost Sheep

 

[gamestalker]

I write a number on the cartridge in the order of the work up, #1 - #5, or how ever many stages I'm testing. Then I have those loads logged in my log book in corresponding numerical order. Then as I run each load across the chrony, inspect for pressure signs, and check it for accuracy, I then write the results in the log book.

There many different ways to do this, I just use this method cause it has worked for me for a long time, and provides me with a work up baseline to utilize for future reloading needs.

GS

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I go very similar to Walkalong but I serial number every box and keep a detailed database of my research.

"Any experiment worth doing is worth documenting."

 

[rfwobbly]

I use masking tape in the same manner you used the paper under the lid. Write the load info with a fine point Sharpie.

I do the same. But after shooting these loads, the tape gets transferred to the target. That way, back at home with the target, I can make critical measurements and record them in my reloading notebook.